Author Topic: Jockey Cap  (Read 1091 times)


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Jockey Cap
« on: May 31, 2007, 08:33:08 AM »
Can someone hook me up with directions to Jockey Cap?  I've heard it's a great place for bouldering as well as some shorter leads.


Offline Admin Al

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Re: Jockey Cap
« Reply #1 on: May 31, 2007, 09:55:48 AM »

this should help...

JC it is a great place to climb. I like to go there in the late fall & early spring. the boulder traverse on the left side wall is locally famous. as it's a small crag, it's all short routes of course. there is a beautiful 5.6-ish hand crack on the left wall & some other nice lines you can TR. if you like hard sport routes there are those in the center as well. after you're done a dip in the river at Weston's Beach is a perfect ending to the day.

NOTE it can be a popular area for groups in the summer.


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  • Guest
Re: Jockey Cap
« Reply #2 on: May 31, 2007, 06:15:26 PM »
Jockey cap bouldering is great.  Real clean rock and well developed.  The climbing is spectacular too, although most of it is pretty stiff in the .12 to .13 range.  Although there is that 5.6 handcrack that most people solo, like Al pointed out.  Its also really easy to get too,  go into fryburg and take the sharp corner towards bridgton, Jockey Cap general store will be on your left park on the RIGHT side of the store (from the road) in the small gravel parking area.  Awesome place to climb.



  • Guest
Re: Jockey Cap
« Reply #3 on: June 05, 2007, 12:22:49 PM »
Al, Joe,

Thanks a ton for the info.  Hopefully some consistently dry weather will come through shortly and I can go enjoy JC.  Also, thanks for the heads up on crowds.

See you out there.



  • Guest
Re: Jockey Cap
« Reply #4 on: June 05, 2007, 08:47:30 PM »
One last thought... since the Jockey Cap store owners let us use their lot (park in front of their motel) I always try to buy a gatorade and a snack from them.

Offline crazyt

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Re: Jockey Cap
« Reply #5 on: June 09, 2007, 10:34:02 AM »
 ;D  The trail has been relocated just to the right (east) side of the motel. The original sign is there and an iinitial path of woodchips gets you going.
There is a picnic table and trash can at the start and a bench a few feet further in. The owners didn't like the late night traffic beneath their bedroom window. Can't blame them!! The relocation is a class act! They did a great job!!  ;D
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