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Author Topic: Worst routes at Rumney?  (Read 330 times)

M_Sprague

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Worst routes at Rumney?
« on: May 31, 2007, 02:09:51 PM »

What do you think are the worst routes at Rumney and what do you not like about them? As a route developer, it is always nice to hear when people enjoy a route that you have put up, but as anyone who has put a number of them up, occasionally one ends up being a turkey and not what you had in mind at the start. If someone is just completely anti bolts or gets upset that some routes were retroed, I am not asking for a rehashing of those subjects, just interested in which routes you think are truly awful and why. I can think of a few that I think would be better removed if there is a consensus. What about you?

By the way, don't feel shy about slamming any of my routes. I can handle critisism (though I might fight back!)
« Last Edit: May 31, 2007, 02:11:31 PM by M_Sprague »
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Worst routes at Rumney?
« Reply #1 on: May 31, 2007, 02:29:43 PM »

I haven't focused at all on the bad rts. We usualy do stuff that looks good and it usually is good. You do see a few while walking arround that just make you shake your head though.  Like who would spend the time and money to bolt that mosspile???? I can think of a few that need fixing though. The bolt Job on Men in white Coats is pretty messed up I recall. another one that was kind of sucky was the 10a just left of Armed and D. Big loose hold up there with bad fall potentual.
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M_Sprague

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Re: Worst routes at Rumney?
« Reply #2 on: May 31, 2007, 03:10:40 PM »

I started to fix up the lower bolts on Men In White Suits but haven't had the chance to finish. I think I even have two holes already drilled, but I was never able to get the time to go back and my "fixen up" funds ran out. I am not sure anything can be done about the anchor without changing the nature of the route. I hope to get back to that soon.

I am not sure which route you are talking about left of Armed and Dangerous. Is it Scene of the Crime? There is a loose block on it, but it has been tested with a crowbar and is very wedged in even though it moves. I kind of like it in a perverse way, the way it freaks everyone out but is really safe. I can't think of any bad fall potential on it.

I put up some stuff further to the left that I am sure makes some eyes roll. They are still works in progress and may change. I wouldn't put The Green Mile up again and even thought of chopping it, but one of the bolts is a glue-in and some people (usually the more Trad inclined oddly enough) have said they really liked it.

By the way, there is now a bolt above the anchors on Scene of the Crime that leads you up to the ledge and a new anchor to use while belaying for Crime and Punishment. It keeps you out of the way from the loose blocks on that route and is better then the old slings on the tree (which should be cut down if anybody is up there. ) You can also get to the anchors from Cereal Killer if you want to make it a two pitch 5.11.
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M_Sprague

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Re: Worst routes at Rumney?
« Reply #3 on: May 31, 2007, 04:35:13 PM »

All right, I'll throw one out: My friend Keith's route on the lower wall of the Prudential Cliff. It is boring, contrived, badly bolted, the anchor is jacked, and it is ugly. I would love to see it disappear.

I think the candidate for my worst route is just to the right of it, an ugly, nasty broken crack system that leads up to a bolted anchor. Luckily I had the sense to stop cleaning it and never bolted it, but just lead it on crappy gear. Hopefully nobody else had the misfortune to ever get on it. It starts out near an area of rare plants (for Rumney anyway), another bad.
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Worst routes at Rumney?
« Reply #4 on: May 31, 2007, 04:45:58 PM »

It would only be bad if the block came off. I hear you about the maintainence funds. I would shoot you a donation but am might light myself these days.........
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JakeDatc

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Re: Worst routes at Rumney?
« Reply #5 on: May 31, 2007, 07:43:45 PM »

You want a really loose block go play on War and Peace and take a little tug on the beauty around the 3rd bolt ;)  i'm waiting for the day i see that in the talus (please not while i'm there :ducks: )

bad routes.. I wasn't a fan of Smokestack at the time but i haven't been on it in a while to see if my thoughts have changed.  (traddies love that dirty ass chimney tho.. i think they pretend they are Frodo battling the spiders)

Not a big fan of Jug Line.. and have talked with dave about the upper bolts but i'll have to get on it with him some day cuz i must be doing something wrong (i think they are too far left.. but he said you guys had told him they were too far right..)

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ToddSH

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Re: Worst routes at Rumney?
« Reply #6 on: June 01, 2007, 07:56:33 AM »

Kamikaze at bonsai. By far the worst route at the grade.

I can't believe you don't like smokestack. It has varied climbing with jams and chimeney moves. most people I know love that route.

Mark- that new route you put up left of armed and dangerous that is a 2 pitch route. I think it is a pile. The 1st pitch is actually quite fun but the 2nd is falling apart. I couldn't believe the amount of glue used.

I feel that route right of armed and dangerous is a total squeeze job. The thing I really don't understand is that the anchors of an existing classic route were altered for this new route.

Todd
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M_Sprague

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Re: Worst routes at Rumney?
« Reply #7 on: June 01, 2007, 09:47:51 AM »

It is funny what some people like and others don't. For instance I think Smokestack is a great route also. When it is dry I like it as a warm-up. It gets you whole body working and has varied moves. It can turn into a grovel if you hit it wrong and get too deep into the crack at the top.

The route to the right of Armed is called Clusterphobia. What can I say. I know it is close, hence the name. It is kind of chossy, but again, a lot of people seem to like the overhanging pockets. You can still use the old anchors of Armed. There is just now an alternative when all the routes are being used. At one point I was also thinking of adding another pitch or extension to A & D and the newer anchor leads in that direction. if you ask me, I like Armed and Dangerous, but I think it is a bit contrived at the top.

Panama Hat, the second pitch climb could still use some cleaning, especially at the top. When I was rapping down near it I noticed a lot of debris had washed on to it. Also, if you try to go direct at the roof, you will get into some uncleaned territory. I actually don't remember gluing much. If you say so. I will go back and look and clean it up if there is a mess. Thanks for pointing that out.
« Last Edit: September 11, 2007, 04:10:13 PM by M_Sprague »
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blake

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Re: Worst routes at Rumney?
« Reply #8 on: June 01, 2007, 10:20:13 AM »

Another vote for Kamikaze.  HORRIBLE route.  i attempted to get my girlfriend on that, who climbs 5.10 and she was horrified.   3 of the 5 hangars were spinning and rusted.  not to mention the awkward and ugly climbing after the mantle. so yeah, not a fan.

also on bonsai - pretzel logic. even though i did it, i  never felt more out of sorts. the mossy mantle and all.


a few things on the main cliff as well....it's like how many lines can you fit into a section of rock?
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old_school

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Re: Worst routes at Rumney?
« Reply #9 on: June 01, 2007, 10:40:47 AM »

Not a fan of that sqeeze job at the parking lot wall between the long 5.6 (glory jeans?) and the 5.8? I forget the names now? I think it is a 5.9, but the moves are awful and there just was not enough room for another climb there in my opinion. One could have just TR'd the problem from the 5.8 anchor!
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JakeDatc

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Re: Worst routes at Rumney?
« Reply #10 on: June 01, 2007, 10:49:29 PM »

I do think  Easily aroused is squeezed in but not a horrible line.. TRable.. yes... and evily fun to see folks go.. "this ain't no 5.7"   like i did when i did it as a warm up when it first went up haha.. it was a 50/50 guess and we got the crimpy version

 I dunno.. i don't go to upper new wave almost at all so i have only been on smoke stack once and it was a long time ago.. it was probaly a bit wet and gave me a bad feeling about it haha.  My friend julia did make the most impressive backwards over the shoulder clip without backclipping.  maybe i shall get back on it one of these days and re-evaluate

Kamakazi is pretty crappy...  also Sixth Sense is not a very asthetic line unless of course you like dirty ledges

I wasn't a fan of the fall near the top of Technical 2nd..  you smack hard into the arete and the top kicked my ass so i took that fall a few times and havent' been back since.

I like the extension of A&D..  just a few more moves of jug pulling.  haven't done clusterphobia yet
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Stickyfingerz

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Re: Worst routes at Rumney?
« Reply #11 on: June 02, 2007, 01:54:42 PM »

Yeah Jake, I hear you on Technical Second. I smacked hard into the arete when I blew the traverse half way up. Luckily, my fat ass took most of the impact... The top is a tough fall since it's less than vertical, not sure if there's much you can do about that.

I don't remember if it's War and Peace or Jugline, but I recall it being pretty awkward and kind of runout at the end.

The closest I've ever come to decking was at the top of Bonehead Roof. I pumped out on the overhangs and whipped from the anchor. Almost cratered on the big ledge, I think I was less than a foot from the rock. I guess it was a pretty exciting show for the guy topping out on Bolt Line though...

~TT~
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Schandy

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Re: Worst routes at Rumney?
« Reply #12 on: June 02, 2007, 04:12:38 PM »


I don't remember if it's War and Peace or Jugline, but I recall it being pretty awkward and kind of runout at the end.



I think it's war and peace.  Definately not one of the worst routes, but could use another bolt.  My buddy whipped off of it and knocked branches out of the trees on the way down.  I too whipped off it (stupid, stupid, stupid) and it was a pretty big fall.  An excellent belay and some luck helped, but I still ended up most of the way down the route.  I think there is a spot for a crappy cam placement up there, but I certainly didn't think to bring one. 

I think the worst routes I've done are Mr. popular and everything on that crappy short butress to the left of waiemea.  I haven't been to rumney in a long time, so I'm blanking on the names

I want to remind everyone that still gets to climb at rumney how awesome a resource it is.  Yes it can be crowded, but the concentration of incredible routes that are well bolted and of all abilites is great.  Although I've moved to an area with more different types of climbing, the concentration of quality routes with good hardwear is no where near as good. 
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JakeDatc

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Re: Worst routes at Rumney?
« Reply #13 on: June 02, 2007, 11:01:33 PM »

I've never found War and peace all that run out at the top.. it's definitely a bit sequency but when you find holds they are jugs.  I love that route.. even done it as a waterfall (makes that + look a bit bigger)
I also think the key is to climb in control and not allow yourself to get lazy with the footwork just because it's a jug haul.  it adds up and then you are sketched at the top (tho there is an amazing rest so i generally dont have an issue)

I rested for a while on the ledge on Bonehead roof before going above it.. there is a bolt on the bulge but its in a very weird spot.. you have to be hanging on the roof before you can clip it (unless you are tall)   

Yea.. everyone can find something for their style.. there are easy and hard slabs... easy and hard roofs.. super techy faces.  one person's choss can be anothers favorite route

i don't think Mr popular is total crap but you could toss a pad down.. do the first boulder problem and call it good.  it's pretty done after that.  Mark and kasia(sp?)'s Thou shall not covet is a much more fun .9 next to it.  (though i'm sure someone will bitch about that getting tossed in there)

Chicken parts at  Hinterlands is one i wasnt a fan of when i got on it a few years ago but haven't tried to lead it.. maybe i don't suck so hard and it'll be better? ( chicken head is fun tho mark haha)

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ed_esmond

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Re: Worst routes at Rumney?
« Reply #14 on: June 03, 2007, 12:07:56 PM »

spriggy,

what is this, rc-dot-com???  how about:  best route name at rumney??  or even better: "how do i mark the middle of my rope???" (oops, i see someone already asked that....)

whether you like a route or not depends on a lot of factors that may have nothing to do with whether the route is a "bag of $hit."

the climbing just may not suit your style.... personally, i won't even get on cereal killer. it's not a bad route, in fact, i think it's a great route, but i just suck at it.  there are a hundred other routes i can do that don't make me feel like the total fat-assed bumbly i am.

i think a better question is: what sort of thing new route activity gets people really upset.  for me, it's things like: crowding existing routes, retro-bolting existing routes without fa'ers permission, and dirty, sharp climbing with out any redeaming aesthetic factors.

a couple of years ago somebody told me,"we should just bolt classics; we don't need to add any more no-star routes to rumney..."

i think that's pretty good advice.

always

ed e



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