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Author Topic: Worst routes at Rumney?  (Read 323 times)

crazyt

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Re: Worst routes at Rumney?
« Reply #15 on: June 03, 2007, 08:25:44 PM »

 :-[  The first 3 bolts on Noodle. I really regret putting those in. The original start was up the slanting flake just to the left. A3 r/x
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leewee

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Re: Worst routes at Rumney?
« Reply #16 on: July 12, 2007, 01:48:44 PM »

i rarely climb anything i dont like... i just like being on the rock...
that being said, my current least favorite route would be "The Beginning of All Things 5.10a" the route left of "Things as they are Now 5.12a" i vote to rename it "Things That Never Should Have Been Bolted" or "Things Bolted to Setup a Top Rope on a Hard Climb"... or regrade it 5.3 cause you can just climb the slab above and lean down to clip the bolts...
i also dont like the far right route on the meadows, 2 left from No Money Down, or Easily Aroused 5.9 though its not that bad its just squeezed...

there are many nice new routes up as well, i like Nuthatch 5.7, Clusterphobia 5.10d is fun even though a bit squeezed, i like the way The Coveted has been retroed and split in to two better lines...

the worst routes are the ones i dont even touch... cause it has to look pretty lame for me to not climb it... one that comes to mind is a crack under the tripple cornes that would be a shitty trad climb but now its worse as what looks like a shitty sport route... and a few new ones at Crows Nest...

i guess this might be a good place to ask...the route "Tails from the Crimp 5.12b" at the pulse... is that chipped? cause it looks like a cool route but some of the holds look manufactured... just wondering if anyone has the inside scoop on that one...
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M_Sprague

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Re: Worst routes at Rumney?
« Reply #17 on: July 12, 2007, 03:01:10 PM »

i guess this might be a good place to ask...the route "Tails from the Crimp 5.12b" at the pulse... is that chipped? cause it looks like a cool route but some of the holds look manufactured... just wondering if anyone has the inside scoop on that one...

I doubt it highly. I know the guy who put it up and as far as I know, he looks down on that sort of thing. I haven't been on it for a number of years, but I don't remember anything that looked chipped to me. He did scrub it very clean and cleaned off any loose flakes (it is super micro frontpointing), so perhaps something from that gave you your impression.
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bag11s

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Re: Worst routes at Rumney?
« Reply #18 on: July 12, 2007, 06:27:48 PM »

Regarding the first three bolts on Noodle, always seemed logical to me- direct, good clipping stances, kind of fun, and a good warm up before the storm.
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M_Sprague

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Re: Worst routes at Rumney?
« Reply #19 on: July 13, 2007, 02:54:53 PM »

i rarely climb anything i dont like... i just like being on the rock...
that being said, my current least favorite route would be "The Beginning of All Things 5.10a" the route left of "Things as they are Now 5.12a" i vote to rename it "Things That Never Should Have Been Bolted" or "Things Bolted to Setup a Top Rope on a Hard Climb"... or regrade it 5.3 cause you can just climb the slab above and lean down to clip the bolts...
i also dont like the far right route on the meadows, 2 left from No Money Down, or Easily Aroused 5.9 though its not that bad its just squeezed...

...

the worst routes are the ones i dont even touch... cause it has to look pretty lame for me to not climb it... one that comes to mind is a crack under the tripple cornes that would be a shitty trad climb but now its worse as what looks like a shitty sport route...

I tend to agree about Beginning of All Things. The climbing is alright, just a bit contrived.

Is the one you are referring to at Triple Corners the brand new one just to the left of Man with a Hueco? If so, it is no classic, but I think you will find it better than it looks, even though it is called Loose and Baggy as a joke.
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leewee

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Re: Worst routes at Rumney?
« Reply #20 on: July 13, 2007, 04:34:31 PM »

thanks for your replies mark...
i guess the chipped look came from seeing a bit of "fresh" rock in very convinient places, for instance where there was a horizontal micro crack there was fresh rock on the upper edge giving the suggestion of a little chip being removed to create a micro crimp... i didnt see any similar looking spots in the "wrong" places... this may be due to the cleaning of small flakes where he wanted them and not cleaning the spots where he didnt need holds... anyway if you vouch for him on his ethics ill take your word on it.... i work in a climbing gym so i see enough manufactured routes, there for i avoid them outside...

the tripple corners route i spoke of is just left of the ramp leading up to the start of Skunks in the gym etc... it looks pretty moderate... seems like it would go right up to the belay anchor on top or near about...
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M_Sprague

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Re: Worst routes at Rumney?
« Reply #21 on: July 13, 2007, 05:10:38 PM »

Hmm. Don't know. That sounds a bit fresh to be from the first ascent. It was put up more than a couple years ago and I would think any "raw"spots would have regained their weathered color. Maybe something happened since. I am never quick to accuse someone of chipping even if it looks like it as I have seen things that look like it that I know weren't. It also gets into a gray area sometimes when cleaning a manky section of a route. It is like " How far do I peel this rotten shit back so it stops breaking off when ever someone touches it. Chris Smith received a nice slam as an unnamed "dick smoking chipper" in one of Sherman's Hueco guides, when in fact his foot snapped a crystal out of a pocket.

I haven't climbed the two routes in the area of TC that you mentioned more than scrambling around the base. Kicking off big loose blocks didn't really inspire me to go all the way. I can't remember the names, but I think they were 5.10 and 5.8
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"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

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handjammer

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Re: Worst routes at Rumney?
« Reply #22 on: July 14, 2007, 08:46:25 AM »

At the 5.8 crag, the far left side has a new route that is full of moss and lichen and often wet.  It looks like a 5.4, or something close to that.  I'm wondering why someone would bolt it and not clean it.  I've only seen one party on it (a very young kid) since it's been put up.

Usually, I'm there with noobs who are learning the ropes.
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HangingChad

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Re: Worst routes at Rumney?
« Reply #23 on: August 01, 2007, 07:41:03 PM »

I'm gonna agree, I say kamikazee is one of my "non-favorites".  And I lead The Beginning of All Things, my friend told me it was a 5.8, no wonder I thought it was damn hard for a 5.8, haha.
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