Hi Mark and Ed-
Thanks for the input. I'm actually a bit surprised that you've both had such good luck with Rawl 5-pieces (though it sounds like Ed is pretty selective in where he places them, and has had some loosening issues). We've actually found them to loosen pretty quickly, and had much better luck with the Raumer or Fixe studs. Specifically, the long ones with two exansion cones along thier length. The two expansion cones seem to be key, because we've found the single cone variety to be terrible, loosening very quickly, and being extremely sensitive to any dust at all left in the holes. I wonder how 12mm Petzl Longlifes would do in schist? They're billed as being suited for hard rock, but it seems as though they'd grip along the entire shaft length as opposed to just the cone, which intuitively seems like a considerable advantage. I've only placed a couple-few at rap anchors over the years, which is a different animal entirely than a bolt that gets pitched on to regularly...
As for the power drill / hand drill debate, I've used both, top-down and on the lead, and when the end goal is hole-quality, there's truely not even a question. And for anyone who hasn't tried it, I can assure them that drilling on the lead with a power drill does not detract a great deal from the challenge or adventure of the endeavor. Climbing with 12lbs of sharp ballast strapped to your ass, or hanging on for dear life while pulling it up from the last pro on the tag line, using one hand and your teeth, when the clock is tic tic ticking away is plenty entertaining. But then, I like shaped skis too, so perhaps I'm biased.