Author Topic: Clean Routes in NE  (Read 145 times)

Offline DH

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Clean Routes in NE
« on: June 19, 2003, 02:17:49 PM »
Sorry, I had to ask.  What popular routes in New Hampshire don't have a single piece of fixed gear on them, even at the anchors??  

The only one I've been able to THINK of is maybe Three Birches on Cathedral, but I might have been off route when i did it, and there could have been a pin I don't remember. ???  

Offline bumpkin

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Re: Clean Routes in NE
« Reply #1 on: June 19, 2003, 03:23:02 PM »
Wow... this is a really good question... at first I thought it was easy but....

I don't remember any fixed gear on Bombardment, though there might be a sling around one of the trees at the top. It's been years since I did Pine Tree Eliminate, but I suppose the trees at the top are slung there. I remember Inferno being pretty pristine, but its been a while there, too...

In general, I think you're right: its hard to think of *popular* NH routes that are free of metal. The Adirondacks, on the other hand...


But its funny this comes up, since last Monday my partner and I were both commenting on how clean Moby Grape was. It has one bolted belay at the top of the first pitch, a sling nest above Reppy's crack just below those bolts, a keg, an angle below the triangle roof, a manky pin on the pitch above the triangle roof, a fixed tricam, and a frayed wire on the weird cave/overlap on the second to last pitch. Not bad for 900' of climbing on a very high traffic route! What's more, since its been raining lots, there was almost *no chalk*!! Obviously the high traffic has modified the route: there is very little loose rubble lying about, but I can't complain about that, really..

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Clean Routes in NE
« Reply #2 on: June 19, 2003, 03:39:45 PM »
Bombardment is "clean" if you don't count the slings on the tree at the top. 3 Birches has a pin on the 2nd pitch. the 1st pitch of Inferno has pins, the second does not. Pine Tree has nothing. Airation doesn't have any fixed gear, except the sling on the tree.

I'll have to think about others...

Al Ê
« Last Edit: June 19, 2003, 05:00:58 PM by admin »
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Offline RickB

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Re: Clean Routes in NE
« Reply #3 on: June 19, 2003, 04:35:42 PM »
Last time I did Endeavor on Whites Ledge, it was free of fixed gear. Sometimes there are slings around a tree up high, though.

Tomcat

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Re: Clean Routes in NE
« Reply #4 on: June 20, 2003, 10:22:57 AM »
I haven't done Three Birches this year yet, but isn't there a stout angle piton on the left on the first pitch just before you step across the fixed wet spot? I have done Moby once a year the last couple and I think the lack of iron enhances the route. Interestingly enough,two years ago there were two lost arrows on the left side of the big ledge with the "boulder moves" off the ledge, I think as a way to say"belay here" but last year they were gone.

Bryan

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Re: Clean Routes in NE
« Reply #5 on: June 24, 2003, 08:28:14 AM »
If you do the direct start to Toe Crack there are no pins or other fixed gear, unless you count the slings at the top.
 Also, I think it's called Commando Run above Refuse.  It's a short route but well worth it.  No fixed gear.  There are several other harder cracks on that same wall with no fixed pro.
Bryan

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Clean Routes in NE
« Reply #6 on: June 24, 2003, 11:00:33 AM »
Bryan, I don't think that the direct start to TC is without gear. I would swear that there is a pin in there somewhere.

Dogboy, is that correct?

Al
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frak

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Re: Clean Routes in NE
« Reply #7 on: June 24, 2003, 11:28:09 AM »
OK i've got one: On Cannon, Slow & Easy (5.8) to Raven Crack
(5.8 & 5.9). Three solid pitches, without a single peice of resident gear.

Seth

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Re: Clean Routes in NE
« Reply #8 on: June 24, 2003, 03:50:24 PM »
 :oNope.  Slow and Easy has a two bolt anchor at the top.

Blubber

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Re: Clean Routes in NE
« Reply #9 on: June 24, 2003, 08:10:33 PM »
Pretty sure the direct start to Toe Crack has a bolt.

Jim Ewing

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Re: Clean Routes in NE
« Reply #10 on: June 25, 2003, 05:35:52 AM »
Aren't there a whole bunch of routes on the Barber Wall without fixed gear?  I know most of it is closed for falcons right now but what about Nutcracker, Dresden, Double Vee, Nomad Crack and others in that neighborhood?

Offline LizzyBee

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Re: Clean Routes in NE
« Reply #11 on: June 25, 2003, 09:08:38 AM »
Al,
I think you're right. Last time I did it there was something just above the dike.

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Offline Admin Al

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Re: Clean Routes in NE
« Reply #12 on: June 25, 2003, 09:48:24 AM »
hey Jim,

I think that the climbs you mention are clean. Chicken Delight has a bolt or a pin at the crux.

BTW that area is NOT closed! the closure is much further to the right. it's immediately left of Retaliation.

Al
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Tomcat

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Re: Clean Routes in NE
« Reply #13 on: June 30, 2003, 10:18:38 AM »
Is it Nomad that has the "worst pin on the cliff"? The partially driven "ace of spades" that is bent downward,or is that Layton's? Could be tied with the pin in the roof of Diedre.I can not think of any pins on any of the pitches of Retaliation.

otis ho

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Re: Clean Routes in NE
« Reply #14 on: June 30, 2003, 10:24:50 AM »
What about airation? and Pine tree elimminate?