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Author Topic: New routes at Armed and Dangerous  (Read 133 times)

jclimbs

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New routes at Armed and Dangerous
« on: June 12, 2007, 11:22:42 AM »

    Last year (I think) a few new routes went up and I am curious what they are named:

    -a 5.7 with a steep start right of Sesame St - name?
    -a 5.8/9 just right of the 5.7 - name?
    -a 5.9ish crack in a slab (usually wet) left of Scene of the Crime - rating and name?

    Also, there is  new route with glue-ins up the hill towards Men in White Suits - starts in a  steep corner and follows a slabby arete - what's this rated and called?

    Hoping Mark or someone else might know, thanks!

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M_Sprague

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Re: New routes at Armed and Dangerous
« Reply #1 on: June 12, 2007, 03:51:39 PM »

The 5.7 is the first pitch of The Big Easy. From the first belay ledge, if you were continuing, you would go up and left through a notch and over to the Sesame  Street anchor as one pitch. I have an easy pitch bolted from there but it has not been cleaned yet and there is a large loose rock on it that needs to be tested. The idea was to then continue a third pitch up onto the white buttress using the line that Tim Gotwels climbed off of Slick, making a 3 pitch 5.9 (I have permission from Tim to retro the top by the way).

If you belay at the first anchor, go through the notch, but then head up and rt, through an overlap, it is a mid?10 called Bourbon Street.  You will need a 60 m rope to lower back to the ledge. There is an extra glue-in bolt on the slab that I placed by mistake that I want to remove. The beautiful trad corner of Slick no longer continues up onto the slab since the huge flake came off. A new exit needs to be found or perhaps an anchor placed at the top of the corner.

While I am on the subject, I recommend that nobody climb Boats from Cuba. It goes through wildly loose huge blocks. Seeing how easily the flake came off of Slick, I don't think it is worth endangering yourself or anyone below. I would trundle them but there is a very old, wizened and picturesque pine tree on the cliff directly below that would be destroyed in the process. Enjoy the route from a distance. The top part of that pitch is now Millennium Falcon, a better alternative anyway.

The 5.8 that starts to the right , at the overhanging corner, is Toxic Gumbo, and finishes at the lip of the belay ledge mentioned above. I put the anchors below so hopefully people won't clamber onto the ledge and erode the soil around the big pine. If you want to do an upper pitch, use The Big Easy.

The 5.9ish thing on the wall left of Scene of the Climb is The Green Mile

Around to the left, the slabby arete is called The Anchovy Caper 5.8. Midway up, on the right,  there are actually 2 or 3 bolts on an easier alternate path. This whole little area is a work in progress though all the routes are climbable. The rock has some very nice features to climb on IMO, all packed into a small area. I am just having trouble figuring out how to make it properly protected without making it look like a bolt spawning ground. I am afraid some people are going to be horrified. That is just the way it is. All I ask is that you climb the routes and then tell me what you think.

Continuing above the Anchovy, there is a large ledge with a belay anchor and currently one route, a 5.9 that I have been calling Mister Meaner, but I may change the name to something like Panama Hat or Panama City. You will have to wait for Ward's new guidebook to get the final name.

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"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

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jclimbs

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Re: New routes at Armed and Dangerous
« Reply #2 on: June 13, 2007, 11:35:30 AM »

Thanks for the details, Mark. I'll try to climb the new ones I haven't yet tried and let you know what I think.
I climbed the Green Mile last year and really liked it (too bad its short and sometimes wet but that's more the norm - so it's not a complaint, just an observation)

I THINK I did a 2nd pitch on the bolted Metamorphosis last year, too, and also liked it. I guess I'll have to wait untill I climb The Big Easy again to see what you mean about the upper pitches.

I look forward to trying them all! Thanks for putting up more moderates!
 ;D
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jclimbs

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Re: New routes at Armed and Dangerous
« Reply #3 on: June 15, 2007, 12:56:03 PM »

Mark, FYI I climbed these again and here is my opinion (as you requested):
1) The Big Easy - P1 - as previously mentioned I think this is a full value 5.7 although maybe not recommended for a new 5.7 leader. Nice route! Long and fun! Watch out for loose rock (as always)
2) Toxic Gumbo - also nice and full value but I think it is a stiff 5.8, maybe even a 9. The crux is a bit perplexing and strenuous for an 8.
3) The Green Mile - I love this route but second time climbing it I found as a 5'4" person the crux clip was out of reach by 2 inches. Had to go left to reach across and clip which was not fun seeing as a fall would land me on the ledge below. Nevertheless, fun route - I love the moves at the bottom 3 bolts! Might be 5.9+ or 10a for the short climber
4) The Anchovy Caper P1 - very fun route but easy 5.8, esepcially compared to Toxic G - of course, slab climbing is way different. Saw the other bolt line and P2 but didnt try it yet.
J
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