Author Topic: Safe & moderate climbs on Cathedral?  (Read 4616 times)

DLottmann

  • Guest
Re: Safe & moderate climbs on Cathedral?
« Reply #15 on: June 23, 2007, 07:11:17 AM »
Holy Land is a 5.6 under Echo Roof.  It starts up a slight ramp, past a knifeblade, bolt (while passing a very interesting "pool" on the left where a tree used to be, the continues straight up past 1 or two gear placements to a bolted anchor somewhat hidden in a big quartz pocket.  There is are actually 2 alternate 5.6 pitches to chose from if you continue, both more commiting and less climbed than this first one.  To the right is Relic Hunter (5.7), and to the left I believe Bulletproof (5.9).

tradmanclimbz- are you thinking of the tree at the top of Kiddy Crack with the rap slings on it?  There is no live tree at the top of Child's Play.

Pete- you got professional instruction before taking the sharp end, which from taking to the victims friends was was more than he had. 

Stickyfingerz

  • Guest
Re: Safe & moderate climbs on Cathedral?
« Reply #16 on: June 23, 2007, 10:07:39 AM »
Holy Land is a 5.6 under Echo Roof.  It starts up a slight ramp, past a knifeblade, bolt (while passing a very interesting "pool" on the left where a tree used to be, the continues straight up past 1 or two gear placements to a bolted anchor somewhat hidden in a big quartz pocket.  There is are actually 2 alternate 5.6 pitches to chose from if you continue, both more commiting and less climbed than this first one.  To the right is Relic Hunter (5.7), and to the left I believe Bulletproof (5.9).

Hey Al,

Do you have the route info for the Echo Roof area that goes with Brad White's topo in the routes DB? There appears to be 10 routes on the topo, but only 2 listed in the database?

Thanks.

sielickip

  • Guest
Re: Safe & moderate climbs on Cathedral?
« Reply #17 on: June 23, 2007, 12:36:04 PM »
Pete- you got professional instruction before taking the sharp end, which from taking to the victims friends was was more than he had. 

You are totally correct Dave. I have the benefit of having advice, resources and tons of "flight hours" at basically any time I want. However, I guess what I was trying to ask was more of what expirence level is the "new leader" everyone is talking about? Like, if a person is outside TRing 5.10 moves all the time, I don't think Funhouse is to hard for him. His climbing ability will most likely help him through the sections. In my mind his potential of falling is lower than that of a person that is TRing some of the time and only going up to 5.6 or 5.7. I'm sorry if I made that unclear in my previous post.

DLottmann

  • Guest
Re: Safe & moderate climbs on Cathedral?
« Reply #18 on: June 23, 2007, 06:58:53 PM »
No worries Pete.  I just know that that pitch was the very first pitch the victim had ever attempted to lead.  I've seen plenty of 5.11 sport climbers/top-ropers sketch on the 5.5 Brown Spot on Standard Route.  Saw one today actually!  Top-roping/sport climbing does not give people the training they need to safetly lead 5.7 trad.  That is a bit more complicated...

Offline tradmanclimbz

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 4530
  • Nick Goldsmith
Re: Safe & moderate climbs on Cathedral?
« Reply #19 on: June 25, 2007, 10:38:07 AM »
I led what I was told was childs play? about a month ago. There was a tree with slings at or near the top? It has a really slippery start up a layback/jamcrack then turned into face climbing up a thin crack with a natural thread (that i couldn't quite thread without the nut tool that was in my pack instead of on my harnes) and a few stoppers...

bsf

  • Guest
Re: Safe & moderate climbs on Cathedral?
« Reply #20 on: June 25, 2007, 11:17:50 AM »
Holy Land is a 5.6 under Echo Roof.  It starts up a slight ramp, past a knifeblade, bolt (while passing a very interesting "pool" on the left where a tree used to be, the continues straight up past 1 or two gear placements to a bolted anchor somewhat hidden in a big quartz pocket.  There is are actually 2 alternate 5.6 pitches to chose from if you continue, both more commiting and less climbed than this first one.  To the right is Relic Hunter (5.7), and to the left I believe Bulletproof (5.9).

This sounds exactly the same as Promised Land (5.6+) on the Whitehorse route section on this website.
The "cool crystal pocket" 2B belay is hidden untill your almost on top of it.

DLottmann

  • Guest
Re: Safe & moderate climbs on Cathedral?
« Reply #21 on: June 25, 2007, 07:08:36 PM »
I led what I was told was childs play? about a month ago. There was a tree with slings at or near the top? It has a really slippery start up a layback/jamcrack then turned into face climbing up a thin crack with a natural thread (that i couldn't quite thread without the nut tool that was in my pack instead of on my harnes) and a few stoppers...

Ya, that is Kiddy Crack (5.7).  Childs Play is to the left, with an awkward 5.6 mantle up to a small alcove at the start being the crux.  There used to be a two bolt anchor at the top, but now you can get a decent gear anchor there.  Kiddy Crack has that super slippery layback start, though some think jamming it is easier.  The only thread I can think of on Kiddy Crack is a great root about 30 feet up though... nothing that needs a nut tool???

arifrosch

  • Guest
Re: Safe & moderate climbs on Cathedral?
« Reply #22 on: June 25, 2007, 09:48:38 PM »
I think the Saigons are an excellent choice. Super well protected, and pretty soft by Cathedral standards. Sure, maybe a little harder for a first trad lead, but pretty hard to mess up on in any serious way. I can't really envision anyone hurting themselves on that route.

Offline tradmanclimbz

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 4530
  • Nick Goldsmith
Re: Safe & moderate climbs on Cathedral?
« Reply #23 on: June 25, 2007, 10:33:09 PM »
There is a  thin crack with a restriction that you could thread but a stopper was fine there.

DLottmann

  • Guest
Re: Safe & moderate climbs on Cathedral?
« Reply #24 on: June 26, 2007, 07:37:12 PM »
I think the Saigons are an excellent choice. Super well protected, and pretty soft by Cathedral standards. Sure, maybe a little harder for a first trad lead, but pretty hard to mess up on in any serious way. I can't really envision anyone hurting themselves on that route.

Pitch 2 can be a bit scary if you arn't solid on 5.8.  I watched a guy whip while trying to clip the last bolt and take a good 20 footer hitting the lower angled rock below.  Scared but unhurt, he and his partner retreated... looking back I remember eqaulizing the two smallest tcu's in a small crack on to the right before that last steep section, and getting major sewing maching leg getting to the bolt.  Come to think of it I think I clipped it and grapped the draw my first time... yep... I did.

arifrosch

  • Guest
Re: Safe & moderate climbs on Cathedral?
« Reply #25 on: June 26, 2007, 08:06:59 PM »
Fair enough. But what I said applies for pitch 1.

I seem to remember the crack right below the crux on p2 taking a bomber #2 camalot; I think you can clip the bolt after the crux.

DLottmann

  • Guest
Re: Safe & moderate climbs on Cathedral?
« Reply #26 on: June 27, 2007, 01:20:56 PM »
I seem to remember the crack right below the crux on p2 taking a bomber #2 camalot; I think you can clip the bolt after the crux.

It does!  I just wanted something even higher!  The bolt is clipable after the crux, like you said, but my first time I did not find the right stance to make the clip in the relaxed way I can make it now.

Offline tradmanclimbz

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 4530
  • Nick Goldsmith
Re: Safe & moderate climbs on Cathedral?
« Reply #27 on: June 27, 2007, 08:39:13 PM »
P2 of the Siagons  has good gear but that clip is pretty stiff for a new leader. I hiked up what i think may be Whimpy Gillman ridge? @ rumny on my way home today. Too bad it is so over bolted. It would be an excelent beginner trad lead. It would still need  a few bolts but the way it is now you wouldn't bother useing any of the gear placements..

bsf

  • Guest
Re: Safe & moderate climbs on Cathedral?
« Reply #28 on: June 27, 2007, 08:45:50 PM »
why are you all calling these all bolted routes "trad leads'
« Last Edit: June 27, 2007, 09:06:22 PM by bsf »

DLottmann

  • Guest
Re: Safe & moderate climbs on Cathedral?
« Reply #29 on: June 27, 2007, 11:40:53 PM »
why are you all calling these all bolted routes "trad leads'

Where is anyone refering to all of these as "trad leads"?  The topic was simply safe & moderate climbs.  Some are all trad, some have some bolts, some are mostly bolts.  Even so, now that you bring it up, I don't think of either pitch of the Saigons as "sport", just "very light trad rack".