Safe & moderate climbs on Cathedral?

[tradmanclimbz]

Whimpy Guillman would be an excelent beginner trad/ mixed lead lead but someone put bolts next to all the cracks.

[bsf]

Where is anyone refering to all of these as "trad leads"?  The topic was simply safe & moderate climbs. 

True enough, I stand corrected. Must have been the heat and cold beer muddeling the brain.

[Stickyfingerz]

Fair enough. But what I said applies for pitch 1.

Very true. Just don't make the mistake that I did and go straight up from the last pin to the ledge, instead of diagonaling up and right to the anchor. The friction traverse to the bolts was a bit spicy. 

[arifrosch]

Very true. Just don't make the mistake that I did and go straight up from the last pin to the ledge, instead of diagonaling up and right to the anchor. The friction traverse to the bolts was a bit spicy. 

I almost made the same mistake and ended up in a forest of lichen, dirt and moss.

As for funhouse, I agree with pete on this one. People shouldn't deck on funhouse if they know how to put in gear. it's very "G". Before a noob leader jumps on the sharp end, he/she should have a pretty good idea of what's bomber and what isn't. This means having experienced people evaluating placements, maybe mock leading, and hopefully bounce testing many placements to see what holds. After this a noob leader should be perfectly safe on funhouse.

[arifrosch]

I was thinking...perhaps just the first dihedral of funhouse would be a great first trad lead? It's only like 30 ft of easy climbing. That would leave out the slightly tricky section where the man fell. That wouldn't be too intimidating for a first lead. Especially since there is a pin right at your face at the crux...

Also, Al mentioned that "falling anywhere on fun house would be more dangerous than falling on thin air or upper refuse." A couple days ago I did upper refuse for the 1st time in several years, and I realized that even on a mellow climb like that falling would be really unpleasant. I just think that in general, low-angle moderate climbs like that falling really isn't what you want to do. IMHO for a 1st trad lead you would want something where you could plug gear anywhere and a fall would be safe anywhere as long as the gear is good. The 1st section of funhouse definately qualifies.

[DLottmann]

I was thinking...perhaps just the first dihedral of funhouse would be a great first trad lead? It's only like 30 ft of easy climbing. That would leave out the slightly tricky section where the man fell. That wouldn't be too intimidating for a first lead. Especially since there is a pin right at your face at the crux...

Also, Al mentioned that "falling anywhere on fun house would be more dangerous than falling on thin air or upper refuse." A couple days ago I did upper refuse for the 1st time in several years, and I realized that even on a mellow climb like that falling would be really unpleasant. I just think that in general, low-angle moderate climbs like that falling really isn't what you want to do. IMHO for a 1st trad lead you would want something where you could plug gear anywhere and a fall would be safe anywhere as long as the gear is good. The 1st section of funhouse definately qualifies.

Well, there is no way down without leaving gear after leading that first section, so what then?  IMO that 1st section is a bit crux-ey for 5.7, and doesn't swallow gear like say, toe crack, or the standard route arch.

[Admin Al]

Do you have the route info for the Echo Roof area that goes with Brad White's topo in the routes DB? There appears to be 10 routes on the topo, but only 2 listed in the database?

I'm a slacker. I'd rather be climbing or riding my bike, than editing the web site.  here is info & I'll get on the stick soon...

1) Last Tango - 5.11c
2) Ladies & Gentleman - 5.8
3) Bulletproof - 5.9
4) Promised Land - 5.6+
5) Relic Hunter - 5.7
6) Var. - Ancient Artifacts 5.8
7) Return To Innocence 5.8
Echo - 5.5
9) (can't remember, but will find out...it's a Winkler & Hurley route)
10) Circle Of Life - 5.8

[SCUD]

9) (can't remember, but will find out...it's a Winkler & Hurley route)

I think this route is "Full Circle" .

[Admin Al]

SCUD - do you remember the grade?

[SCUD]

Al, I would rate both "Full Circle" &  "Circle of Life" decent 5.9 leads. Have done both of them a number of times & find each requires your full attention.

[DLottmann]

I'll second that.  Atleast one of them is rated 5.9 in another guidebook and they have similiar cruxs.