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Author Topic: Childrens Crusade P1  (Read 128 times)

RickB

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Childrens Crusade P1
« on: June 26, 2003, 05:45:32 PM »

At the risk of sounding like a total wimp, is there any way to protect the dike to the first piton on Childrens Crusade? If it's really 5.7, that's way too far off the ground for this old guy.
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Dave_R

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Re: Childrens Crusade P1
« Reply #1 on: June 26, 2003, 09:39:47 PM »

I ran up that pitch recently to put a rope up for someone after not having done it in years and I was quickly reminded that the climbing is very easy there but, it is not a great spot to fuck up! Suck it up and go for it. I recently heard some one talking about them adding a bolt to the start. I hope they don't do it.
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JP

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Re: Childrens Crusade P1
« Reply #2 on: June 27, 2003, 06:08:37 AM »

I did this route last year and had similiar questions and concerns.  I was pretty much told to suck it up as well.  Dave_R's comments are right on the money... The climbing is easy but if your head gets in your way it will spoil the day for all climbers in the area.  Don't do it if your not up for it and don't change it for those who are.  I'm not proud, I'll tell you I'm certainly not up to the repeat of this one right now.  I'm happy to say I did it as-is and I'm sure others, including yourself, will fell the same.  I would also suggest you don't choose to give it go on one of these hot humid days.  
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JP

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Re: Childrens Crusade P1
« Reply #3 on: June 27, 2003, 06:21:21 AM »

Just noticed my typo... The 'fell' was not a Freudin slip meant to make you nervous... it should read 'feel the same'...
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dogboy

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Re: Childrens Crusade P1
« Reply #4 on: June 27, 2003, 06:48:49 AM »

There really is no way to protect it.  Two times ago I searched like hell for anything...just to see what I could find.  Nothing would go...tricams, aliens, RP's.  There really is no pro.  However, there are only 2 or 3 moves that are 5.7...the rest is 5.5 or 5.6.  It's a bit nerve wracking, but I've led it twice now and both times I've found that I get to the pin faster than I expected.  However, the entire pitch is stiff 5.9, and although bolted, there are healthy runouts between bolts, and the fall at the crux is a bit nasty...the climb is great, but shouldn't be underestimated....
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Everybody wants to go to heaven, but no one wants to die.

RickB

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Re: Childrens Crusade P1
« Reply #5 on: July 01, 2003, 04:04:04 AM »

Thanks, all.
I would never endorse retro-protecting a classic climb like this one.
We'll give it a try when it feels right.
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bumpkin

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Re: Childrens Crusade P1
« Reply #6 on: July 08, 2003, 01:31:10 PM »

my 0.02$....

did this route while playing hookey from my basement lab where I am manufacturing Weasels of Mongolian Descent (WMD, but don't tell the Dept. of Homeland Security!)... it was frikin' hot, dark rock, fully in the sun, 11AM. And....

getting to the pin is easy. Don't sweat it. I managed to get in a small TCU that might have prevented me from hitting the ground, though I would have definetly taken a hard bounce on the ledge... if it held. But... like I said, getting to the pin is easy and the price of admission is fully worth it for

****such a beautiful line****

Do it!
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