Author Topic: Rumney Guide Book  (Read 2231 times)

Offline sneoh

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Re: Rumney Guide Book
« Reply #165 on: December 02, 2009, 11:38:47 PM »
That 11 to the right of Millenium Falcon.  I had to pull a 5.12 move to get through the crux.

GO

That would be Gunboat Diplomacy, Gabe, and further right of it; Peanut Man.
The crux on P.M. feels solidly in the 5.12 range to me.  :(

The new Guide does mention both are harder for vertically challenged climbers, that makes me feel a little better about failing miserably on Peanut Man.  I've got to get stronger .....


"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline GOclimb

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Re: Rumney Guide Book
« Reply #166 on: December 03, 2009, 12:14:18 PM »
That would be Gunboat Diplomacy, Gabe, and further right of it; Peanut Man.
The crux on P.M. feels solidly in the 5.12 range to me.  :(

The new Guide does mention both are harder for vertically challenged climbers, that makes me feel a little better about failing miserably on Peanut Man.  I've got to get stronger .....



Gunboat Diplomacy is the one I mean. 

I've done both, and IMO, Peanut man is right on for the grade (11d) for an average-sized human (5'6" or so).  It's just that it may be a good bit easier if you're tall, since you can skip a hard move or two.

Gunboat Diplomacy, on the other hand, is definitely much harder than the grade (11c) if you're 5'6", unless I missed some key beta.

GO

Offline sneoh

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Re: Rumney Guide Book
« Reply #167 on: December 03, 2009, 12:30:44 PM »

Different strokes for different folks; for me, Gunboat did not feel as "beyond grade" as Peanut Man.
It is entirely possible that I missed something on P.M.


"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline OldEric

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Re: Rumney Guide Book
« Reply #168 on: December 04, 2009, 10:26:34 AM »
G.D is just insecure - but I don't think it is that hieght dependent.  P.M. is powerful and beta.  I am just tall enough (5,9)- on a good day - to go straight to the undercling and straight to the dish from there - not having to fiddle faddle with the extra moves that a short person has to do at the crux though.  Still gotta clip though - glad that I get looked at like I have two heads when I say that pink points are not really valid.

Offline HangingChad

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Re: Rumney Guide Book
« Reply #169 on: December 05, 2009, 12:27:41 PM »
so when does the next rumney guide book come out?  GOSH



haha, I kid I kid. 

Offline jammer

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Re: Rumney Guide Book
« Reply #170 on: December 07, 2009, 03:54:51 PM »
No April fools! the guide will be here on Friday! 11/20!

I'll get it locally right away, bigger shops will take a bit longer.
if you want to order direct www.rumneyclimbing.com shipping is free! I'll get them out promptly!!!!
Been awhile since I came here.  My bad!  I just ordered a couple myself. Thanks!