OK, everyone, especially Al, LISTEN CAREFULLY, because I,ve had enough, and it,s about time someone told you how it is, or at least , how it should be...
Let,s begin with some straight up honesty, so you know who I am, and so that no one feels alienated.... I,m NOT a 5.13 climber, I ONLY climb trad, and right NOW that means 5.10 and under... for now...
I,ve about had it with all this BS. Who the Hell do ALL of you think you are?? I,ve been polite up until now, but even gentlemen have limits, and not being one, I,m well passed mine... let,s up the ante to a higher level...
Long before any of you saw the righteous light of our sun, these cliffs stood NEARLY still, unmarked by modern day dweebs drilling self gratifying masturbation holes into these sacred places...
Rock and Ice, Number Forty, December 1990
VANDALS IN THE TEMPLE
by, Royal Robbins
Getting to the top is NOTHING. The WAY you do it is everything. Ł
Geoffery Winthrop Young
Think about that carefully...
To truly raise the the standards of free climbing, you can,t sacrifice style or purity for a higher number. Ł These words were spoken in defense of Yosemite climbing tradition at the American Alpine Club meeting in Denver in 1986. Since then, Ron Kauk, the MAN who uttered them, has become a leader in the SACRFICE of style and and purity in pursuit of higher numbers...
Adam Tambone... weaker still, in these MODERN TIMES these sacrifices aren,t made in the name of higher numbers, which almost seem noble and worthwhile compared to the reasons ├óÔéČ╦ťclimbers, justify drilling bolts into cliffs these modern days. Instead today these same methods amount to dragging down difficult routes to mediocre consequences. Where once the SACRIFICE of ETHICS by placing fixed gear, amounted to making IMPOSSIBLE routes within the grasp of the elite climbers, in these modern times, these same techniques have been implemented to DUMB DOWN entire cliff systems to within the grasp of everyone, whatever their psychological abilities. I THINK I SMELL A RAT! Ł
Royal Robbins, Rap-Bolting is the method by which these bravos sacrifice style and purity-- never in the history of MOUNTAINEERING have we faced a more important problem. Let me state the matter plainly-- we are talking about the DEATH of American rock climbing. Ł
During the Golden Age of Alpinism, Geoffrey Winthrop Young defined and articulated a philosophy that has guided ALL of the great spirits of mountaineering. It,s not getting to the top that counts, it,s the way you do it. Ł This philosophy was exemplified by Walter Bonatti,s five day solo ascent of the SouthWest Pillar of the Dru. In contrast, Caesare Maestri,s PERVERTED bolt-gun RAPE of Cerro Torre was a hollow triumph of EGO over all other values. Ł
Now, I do not want to hear any further justification for drilling bolts, or pounding in pins to our defenseless and divine cliffs... if you continue these false justifications, remember this, you are on the record, and the day will come when you will be ashamed of your selfish actions. These cliffs soaked in the rain and sun long before your mother submitted to her primal urges giving rise to your existance... don,t waste it, you only have one chance in this world.
I assure you that climbing a route CLEANLY beneath your IDEAL climbing ability will be far more satisfying and enlightening than climbing a route by way of clipping bolts and fixed gear at your GYM climbing level. Beginning climbers, more than anyone else should adhere to the clean climbing ethic in order to climb well in body and spirit, and also to be able to pass on this enlightenment to others gained through this practice.
STOP clipping bolts! Not only are you depriving yourself of the satisfaction of actually climbing, but you are also setting a WRONG standard for climbers in the future.
on the record
July 03, 2003