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Author Topic: Consolation Prize: route description update  (Read 269 times)

Flotsam

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Consolation Prize: route description update
« on: August 09, 2007, 02:11:59 PM »

This is a route update for Consolation Prize 5.9.  Some loose stuff is marked on the TOPO but it's Cannon.

This past weekend I saw a party "route finding" on the 5th pitch and people hanging out below on Condescender.  It is important to know there is significant amounts of loose rock on pitch 5, some of it is BIG.

Con Prize:

Pitch 1, 5.8  G corner (formally 5.6 ) 120':  This pitch was once 5.6 but a block fell out at the bottom of the crack, this new section is now 5.8.  Scramble up and left to the bottom of a left facing corner, traverse back right through hand crack (10 ft) and gain a right trending, left facing corner.  Climb corner to a pocket with a bolt(belay).

Pitch 2, 5.7 PG (formally 5.8 ) 120':  This pitch was once the crux at 5.8 but rock falls have changed it a lot - mostly opening up the finger crack.  Step down from belay, follow dike/flakes up and right.  Step across/down at the end of the dike reaching a widening finger crack. Follow crack to an old bolt, step up / left slightly (5.7), gain right facing corner.  At top traverse left onto ledge and a 2 bolt belay/rap station (190' to ground).

Pitch 3, 5.9 or 5.7/A1 R (formally 5.8 ) 110':  From the belay climb the obvious set of buckets up through a large overlap (old pin).  Follow a crack  then step up slabs (5.7 run out) through a series of small overlaps to a chest high roof with a pin just above it. The crux is getting through the roof. Move up & right to a bolted anchor.

Pitch 4, 5.6 R loose and hollow 95':  Climb strait above the belay to a pin at about 20'. From the pin, move left an up to some obvious flakes below another set of overlaps. Move left over hollow flakes and blocks towards a bush and climb up through the large overlap. Follow a corner past the old belay station (ledge now missing) to its top and belay at two new bolts.

Pitch 5, 5.7 R 160':  Climb the slab, and move right to flake and pin. From the pin climb up & back left on a small flake and through a headwall using a nice finger crack. Cross debris moving right and up then back left to a 2 bolt belay/rappel. 

Past Pitch 5:  From here DO NOT GO Strait up above the belay - head left to join Wiessner's.

TOPO ATTACHED
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maznev

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Re: Consolation Prize: route description update
« Reply #1 on: August 09, 2007, 05:34:12 PM »

Thank you for the updated description! I noticed that the finger crack became a handcrack but thought the problem was with my memory. However, did the crux overlap on p3 change as well? We climbed the route last summer and I thought this part was still the same as before the old man rockfall.
-Alex
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JBrochu

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Re: Consolation Prize: route description update
« Reply #2 on: August 10, 2007, 08:52:30 AM »

According to frik, who's done the route almost every year since the mid 70's, a key hold broke off the crux overlap section making it slightly harder than it used to be.
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frik

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Re: Consolation Prize: route description update
« Reply #3 on: August 10, 2007, 10:11:20 AM »

Maznev: you must have been one of the dudes on Condescender last Sunday, no?
As to the 3rd pitch crux of Conn prize; it's allways been a "trick" move, made alot easier if you had the secret beta.
The original grade of 5.7, was i think a bit of a sandbag. However a piece of a hold did break off during one of the rockfall events in the years before the old mann crash, and that did make the move harder. I'd call it 5.9 for anyone who doesn't know the secret - but that's just my opinion. All i know is, that it's significantly harder than most of the other 5.8's in NH.
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maznev

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Re: Consolation Prize: route description update
« Reply #4 on: August 10, 2007, 10:58:01 AM »

Quote
you must have been one of the dudes on Condescender last Sunday, no?

yes, and my partner did get hit by a rock (luckily nothing serious). It was our sheer stupidity, to be there under a party high on the Consolation Prize. Can't even call it "a lesson learned" as this lesson has been already learned many times before.
-Alex
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JBrochu

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Re: Consolation Prize: route description update
« Reply #5 on: August 10, 2007, 11:16:03 AM »

You know I was thinking how usually myself and my partners almost never sign out when headed up to Cannon, but it would be really good idea for everybody headed up to the routes on the slabs to make sure and sign out. You cannot always see if somebody is up high on Lakeview or ConPrize once you're at the base of the cliff, and it's really not a good place to stand if a party is up there.

(I guess it's a good idea to sign out in general for any route on the cliff but more so for the slabs.)
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Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

tradmanclimbz

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Re: Consolation Prize: route description update
« Reply #6 on: August 10, 2007, 01:11:29 PM »

I find it really helpfull if folks use the sighn in  box. It helps plan your day.  latly though it seems that many do not. The sighn in sheet shows moby only has one party that started the same time I left VT so i rack up for moby, hike in and there is 4 partys on it includeing a guide with 4 clients which is annother story alltogether.... Anyways I would have had a much lighter rack if I knew I was planning on WG or I would have brought packs and lunch if planning on vertigo, rap and union jack.  I know its not what the sighn in sheet is really for but it is kind of nice to have a heads up when you are starting out the day as to what may be reasonably open.
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Admin Al

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Re: Consolation Prize: route description update
« Reply #7 on: August 10, 2007, 01:55:00 PM »

I'm not at all sure why you would NOT want to sign in? is there any down side that I'm too dense to Grok? perhaps someone could enlighten me...

--al
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JBrochu

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Re: Consolation Prize: route description update
« Reply #8 on: August 13, 2007, 11:47:30 AM »

I'm not at all sure why you would NOT want to sign in? is there any down side that I'm too dense to Grok? perhaps someone could enlighten me...

--al

We don't want "the man" keeping us down, dude...  ;D
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Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

cwoodman

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Re: Consolation Prize: route description update
« Reply #9 on: September 04, 2007, 02:54:53 PM »

Climbed it today with friend Jack. Hadn't done it since The Old Man came crashing down. Still a beautiful route but lots of rubble remains on the ledges up higher. Pebbles came down the whole time we were up there. We were very careful not to drop anything, but you'd be tempting fate following a careless or inexperienced party. On the other hand, get there early and you'll probably have the route to yourselves for the day. One of my favorite climbs- have climbed and guided it dozens of times over the past 25 years. I always thought it was a really good alpine outing. Still is, now it's just a bit more serious.
Chuck     
« Last Edit: September 04, 2007, 07:34:24 PM by cwoodman »
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smartpig

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Re: Consolation Prize: route description update
« Reply #10 on: September 05, 2007, 12:08:21 AM »

Consolation Prize pics
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