Author Topic: No MOney down bolts?  (Read 151 times)

Bling

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No MOney down bolts?
« on: July 03, 2003, 06:46:44 PM »

So I was kinda wondering why someone retro bolted "no money down" in the medows recently.
I realize that Most old routes at Rumney are retro bolted... but this one was kinda a cool gear lead to the first and only bolt on the route.  I guess its no big deal concidering that its Rumney, but the gear is actually pretty good up to that high bolt. Does anyone know what the deal is with this?  ???
Bling

Offline slobmonster

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Re: No MOney down bolts?
« Reply #1 on: July 04, 2003, 01:45:59 PM »
ha.  perhaps the antithesis of what's going on in north conway these days, where the local climbing community is discussing the removal of anchors, some with significant historical value!  rumney is rumney.  and that is what a lot of folks are worried about: the homogenization of everything, the inevitable dumbing down of climbers as solvers of their own problems.  etcetera.  
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ATambone

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Re: No MOney down bolts?
« Reply #2 on: July 04, 2003, 10:25:09 PM »
chalk up another one in the L column.

Mark Sprague

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Re: No MOney down bolts?
« Reply #3 on: July 07, 2003, 06:32:24 PM »
 ::)I placed the new bolts and replaced the old. Tom gave the go ahead on his routes at Rumney saying that he just used the technology he had at the time when he put them up. Tim Kemple Sr. fixed up the anchor. I asked around quite a bit for peoples opinion on retroing it, especialy other " old time" developers of the area, and 99% thought it was a great idea. Sorry I have not had the chance to paint them up or remove the old stud. I am hoping to get to it this week.

Black Dog Crack has also had it's old bolts and pins replaced with the same number of new bolts. The first bolt was in horrible condition and I removed one of the pins very easily. Climbers should still bring gear for the upper section as before. Almost any larger nut will do in the upper crack.

I have been asked to place another bolt on Retrospade. Opinion on this climb is much more mixxed so I am not really inclined to do so. The one spot where gear is needed is bomber and clearly visable from the ground and is right in line where the rope runs. I lead it this past weekend and found it safe and quite aesthetic. Mid sized nuts work great. Opinions are welcome, though I tend to like to speak to the FAer and people who actually climb the routes in person. The internet tends to bring out the ranting crackpots.

Offline DWarriner

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Re: No MOney down bolts?
« Reply #4 on: July 08, 2003, 06:07:31 AM »
>>>Opinions are welcome, though I tend to like to speak to
>>>the FAer and people who actually climb the routes in
>>>person. The internet tends to bring out the ranting >>>crackpots.

Good call.
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Offline Admin Al

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Re: No MOney down bolts?
« Reply #5 on: July 08, 2003, 06:45:16 AM »
crackpot...who you callin' crackpot boy!!!!!
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ATambone

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Re: No MOney down bolts?
« Reply #6 on: July 09, 2003, 09:07:40 AM »
so Mark, enlighten me, since i'm unfamiliar with 'no money down'.  aside from replacing the old bolts, why were the additional bolts necessary?  if the climb was do-able before you added the bolts, why did you add them?  is their gear available where the new bolts are?  what was your motivation?  just wondering.

a

Mark Sprague

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Re: No MOney down bolts?
« Reply #7 on: July 09, 2003, 04:58:42 PM »
"No Money Down" is a fairly short (35 ft.) spiny climb near the left end of the Meadows at Rumney. It is a somewhat mediocre mixed route. Over the years, most people I've spoken with, who climb at Rumney, thought it would be better as a sport route. It is a different philosophy than "traditional" climbing, one that works well at the cliffs of Rumney, though not at all others. My motivation was to make the route more enjoyable and somewhat safer for the majority of the people who use that heavily traveled cliff.

Offline jim

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Re: No MOney down bolts?
« Reply #8 on: July 14, 2003, 10:01:52 AM »
Mark, good job and thanks.  I think the climb will see more traffic now and will be more enjoyed.  In keeping with area tradition, I think it makes sense.  As to Retrospade, how is placing a bolt where there is a gear placement any different than Machine Head, where there used to be one gear placement?  I don't see the difference and would argue for placing the bolt.  I personally don't care but there are tons of Rumney routes whose gear placements have been eliminated so why would Retrospade be treated differently?  In fact, isn't the current upper part of the route not even the same as the original route when it was first put up (which I assume was led with gear)?