Old but unused rope?

[poorclimber]

Someone I know has a rope for sale, over ten years old but never used. Is it safe to use a rope like this? I'm trying to get equipment without spending a lot of money.

[Admin Al]

ropes definitely degenerate over time, even if they are unused. I remember a few years ago reading a test done on unused ropes stored for years in a cool, dark chemical-free place. they found that there was a significant loss of strength.

10 years is a very long time and I personally wouldn't use a rope that was that old. remember, the cost of a rope is insignificant compared to the value of your life. the only thing between you and the ground is that relativily slender teather!

Jim Ewing, if you are out there please jump in!!!

Al

[poorclimber]

Good to know - Thank you!! Guess I'll shell out for a new one.

Mmmm, another month of ramen and PB&J....

I'm going to pass this on to the guy with the rope as well - he hasn't climbed for years, and had no idea about the safety of it - hence my question.

-pc

[Jim Ewing]

A few years ago I heard a rumor that there was a test on a rope that was 10 years old.  The rope was in its original packaging and had never been used.  The rumor was that the rope tested to very nearly what was stated on the labels.  So it would seem that as long as a rope is not used, still in it,s original packaging, and it,s been stored properly, the rope should be OK for use.  All that said I want to stress that this was a rumor.  I never saw any independent or otherwise test results so I can neither confirm nor deny any truth to the rumor.

In regards to the rope in this instance, if I could not establish 100% of the storage history of this rope I would be hesitant to use it.  If I knew for certain that the rope has never left its bag and has been stored properly I would at least feel safe using it for top roping.

At the end of the day you have to ask yourself what that little extra bit of confidence in your life,s safety is worth.

Cheers,
Jim

[MNatti]

As a general rule, I'd never lead on a rope that I didn't know ALL its history, but tope roping certainlt does not shock the system nearly as much.  I am NOT suggesting anything, but when money is tight???  The final word is that it is a life on the end of that rope.

[DLottmann]

I would have no problem top-roping on a rope like this.  The real loss in strength (I think) comes from the loss of elastisty.  An older rope will put more force on the protection, belayer, and climber in a lead fall.  If you are looking for a toprope rope, I wouldn't be to worried.  Has anyone ever heard of a rope failing in a toprope scenario that possibly wouldn't have failed even if it was brand-new?  Kermantle ropes are STRONG.  I'll play devil's advocate and say alot of the warnings and life expectancies of ropes are determined by rope manufactors.  Yes, it is your life, but it is also their bottom line.  I wouldn't lead on it, but TR?  IMHO, no problem.

[DLottmann]

And check out EBay, you can find new and almost new climbing ropes their for around $50.  Like others have warned though, it is your life.

[tradmanclimbz]

It totaly blows me away that people buy ropes on ebay I can't imagine spending $$$ on a used rope.  I know what i do to my ropes and i even sold one at a yard sale for $20.00 but I certainly wouldn't buy a strangers rope.  Due to low funds and a nasty core shot on my single rope i am now cragging and spurt climbing on my last retired rope  so don't listen to me

[DLottmann]

I wonder how many people ask new climbing partners about the history of their rope before tying in...  I never have... I mean, if the rope looked like crap I would offer to use mine... but I climb on more "stranger's" ropes than I do my own.  My rack, their rope, seems to be the majority of it...

[tradmanclimbz]

Most of us do climb on strangers ropes but you are both in it together. Once that stranger decides his rope isn't safe enough for him to climb on it he maby puts it on ebay for 50 bucks.

[Coppertone]

Save money on clothes, food, gas, etc.  Don't save money on climbing gear.  Buy only what you can trust.  I'm always amazed when I see people buying ropes and slings from people online or at swap meets, its nuts unless this is a friend who you trust can vouch 100% for the reliability of the gear.

[DWarriner]

Fictitious account from Accidents in North American Mountaineering .....

Joe B. was leading "Ropes On Sale" 5.9 at Crag Y - a 50 foot sport climb.  He was climbing without a helmet using a rope he bought on eBay.  

At 35 feet, while attempting to clip a bolt he peeled off.  His initial fall was a clean 12 footer, but the rope failed and he hit the ground after bouncing off his head.  He suffered a concussion and multiple tib/fib fractures to both his legs.  

He is doing very well.  After 4 surgeries he is expected to walk by the end of the year.  His speech is almost back to normal although the sounds sh, ch and pppppppppth are still quite challenging.


Analysis:  It turns out that the rope was used to tow boats in the ocean and had sever degradation due to salt and UV exposure.

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There's some stuff you should splurge for - good beer, extra strength control rods for your nuclear reactor, and the best rope you can afford.


-David