Author Topic: bolts  (Read 4505 times)

gags

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bolts
« on: August 31, 2007, 02:40:33 PM »
I saw in a Fastenol store 3/8 inch stainless steel wedge anchor bolts.  There were a box of 50 for 60 bucks.  I think they are the same thing that the climbing stores sell, but want to make sure.  If anyone knows anything about bolts, please let me know where you buy them and what I should be looking for if I decide to buy them from a store which mainly sells construction equip.
gags

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: bolts
« Reply #1 on: August 31, 2007, 03:00:41 PM »
I get my bolts from Fastenal. If I am not using the 1/2 galvanized glue ins that I use at Rumney, I usually buy 1/2 in SS Rawls, which are pretty expensive (about $7). 3/8" is not bad and will save you a buck or 2. Let me have the Fastenal serial # and I will take a look. I am not usually a fan of wedge bolts though many people use them. A little over a buck seems really cheap.
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."
-Ralph Waldo Emerson

The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. John Kenneth Galbrait

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: bolts
« Reply #2 on: September 01, 2007, 06:31:16 AM »
Mcmaster and Carr lists all the specs. The 5 piece sleve bolts allways have much higher specs than wedge bolts. Some of the wedge bolts specs are pretty low when you factor in the fact that the specs listed are for a perfect placement in perfect conditions. ALLWAYS USE STAINLESS STELL for 3/8ths bolts  in the Northeast! Zinc plated and galvanized bolts can rust pretty quick especialy when coming in contact with stainless steel hangers. Mcmaster & Carr sells the SS 5 piece for $4.48 ea. That is  about two bucks cheaper than Fixe USA sells the same bolt.

emac

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Re: bolts
« Reply #3 on: September 01, 2007, 02:38:44 PM »
I've been using these Power Stud SS wedge bolts for years:

http://fastenmsc.stores.yahoo.net/wedanstainst5.html

They have a pretty good deal on bits too:

http://fastenmsc.stores.yahoo.net/sdscarbit38d.html

May be better deals out there, and 3-4 years ago this was th ebest deal we found, but have not looked since. Lazy, I guess.
« Last Edit: September 04, 2007, 08:36:40 AM by Eric McCallister »

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: bolts
« Reply #4 on: September 01, 2007, 04:57:04 PM »
I don't see from that link that those are stainless?? The specs on the powerstud that i saw were 1/2 the strength of the 5 piece. Have not been able to get specs from Fixe on their wedge bolts?

emac

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Re: bolts
« Reply #5 on: September 02, 2007, 02:10:15 PM »
On each length there are two prices... carbon/SS. The strength of these studs is PLENTY strong. The 5 piece are great in softer rock, but in bullet-hard New River sandstone, where I've placed hundreds of them, and granite, they are bomber.
« Last Edit: September 02, 2007, 02:12:03 PM by Eric McCallister »

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: bolts
« Reply #6 on: September 02, 2007, 05:53:24 PM »
so the price with the 5/ in front of it is the stainless price??

emac

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Re: bolts
« Reply #7 on: September 04, 2007, 08:36:22 AM »
would help if I read it carefully. Doh. Here is the SS link:

http://fastenmsc.stores.yahoo.net/wedanstainst5.html

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: bolts
« Reply #8 on: September 04, 2007, 02:13:06 PM »
http://fastenmsc.stores.yahoo.net/ezancor.html only 10 cents each THIS ISA JOKE!

Go with these  http://fastenmsc.stores.yahoo.net/pohexhe1dist.html along with heavy Fixe SS hangers and don't be a cheep bastard. They are almost twice as strong as 3/8". Think of 40-60+ years from now not just 10. Time goes by faster than you would think. Look at the specs for working loads on all of these various bolts available on the website. You are dealing with peoples lives here, not hanging up some ugly picture. Yes, I know it is expensive, but do it right or don't do it at all.
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."
-Ralph Waldo Emerson

The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. John Kenneth Galbrait

gags

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Re: bolts
« Reply #9 on: September 05, 2007, 10:38:29 AM »
msprague,
is there any way you could put a picture of a 1/2 inch SS Rawls on this thread which you buy from Fastenal and maybe give me the serial # of those.  The next time I go to Fastenal, I will make sure to get the serial # of the wedge anchors so you can look at them.  Thanks for the help.
-gags

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: bolts
« Reply #10 on: September 05, 2007, 11:45:42 AM »
At Rumny the 1/2 glue in or sleve bolts are really good idea. For most other craggs they are over kill. I usually hand drill or I use a really cheap POS harbor freight rotary hammer. I can only get 2 or3 bolts drilled with the power drill before the 2 batteries are toast so I then end up hand drilling again. 1/2 in is out of the question for me and many other developers. My rts get climbed 50 times a year if that so the 3/8th stainless is perfect for the job. Some of Mark's rts get climbed 50 and more times a week!!   I figuer that when I replace the top anchors for the Monkey and Center Crack that I will use 1/2 in but that is about the only place that i see an issue with long term 3/8ths use at my local crag.

slobmonster

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Re: bolts
« Reply #11 on: September 05, 2007, 03:25:23 PM »
I have found reliable service and low prices buying from McMaster-Carr

When drilling by hand out here in CA I use the 3/8 X 2.25" Powers (formerly known as Rawl) 5-piece bolts.  $4.48 each in Stainless; $1.19 Carbon Steel.  Softer rock or w/ Big Boy Drill, I go longer. 

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: bolts
« Reply #12 on: September 05, 2007, 05:07:06 PM »
msprague,
is there any way you could put a picture of a 1/2 inch SS Rawls on this thread which you buy from Fastenal and maybe give me the serial # of those.  The next time I go to Fastenal, I will make sure to get the serial # of the wedge anchors so you can look at them.  Thanks for the help.
-gags

My mistake. I did buy my last batch of 1/2" sleeve bolts from McMaster-Carr. The part # is 92405A300. $7.02 each. They are cheaper at http://fastenmsc.stores.yahoo.net/pohexhe1dist.html ($6.18), but you have to buy 50 of them. These are all 2-3/4" long SS, which is what I use in good granite. If it was funkier I would go longer or use a long glue in.

3/8 SS sleeve anchors are all right, particularly on granite slabs IMO, but I really like the added beefiness of 1/2". I think they will last much longer and it seems like they are much less likely to loosen up. Considering the labor to go around and replace bolts later, think it is worth the cost even on my budget to get the better bolts. It is easy to say "It is someone else's problem when they wear out". but, considering the routes are usually on public land, I try not to think that way. My only caveat is that I do have a good power drill. If I had to hand drill, I probably would use 3/8" too. More likely, if I was putting up a bunch of routes, I would borough  someone else's drill, split the cost with others or start saving.

It would help with bolt choice if we knew what kind of rock, popularity, angle of rock, drill etc.

Mark
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."
-Ralph Waldo Emerson

The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. John Kenneth Galbrait

gags

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Re: bolts
« Reply #13 on: September 05, 2007, 05:21:12 PM »
I am considering buying a Bosch rotary drill with hammering action.  They go for about $600 or the Milwaukee for $700.  As far as the type of rock, it would always be granite but of varying styles.  All of this is new to me so I want to make sure I make a wise investment.  How are sleeve bolts different from wedge anchors?
-gags

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: bolts
« Reply #14 on: September 05, 2007, 06:13:51 PM »
My friend Brady has a Milwaukee I believe (it is yellow) and it is a joy to use. It is a bit better than my older Bosch Annihilator which is still great. Aviation Industrial Supply always used to have good prices on drills. They have an ad in Rock and Ice or Climbing I think.

My advice if you haven't put up bolted routes before is to try to hook up with a few other people who have and see what they can teach you. Check out their theories and style and see what makes sense to you. Like climbing in general, they will most likely want to indoctrinate you into what ever way they put op their routes. :o ::) Check out the results and see what you like and don't.

Go to http://www.mcmaster.com/ and search sleeve anchors. It will bring you to a page that explains the bolt differences. Being easily removable is especially helpful when you are starting or when you get to that stage when you get all excited and start spraying them in all over.  ;D
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."
-Ralph Waldo Emerson

The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. John Kenneth Galbrait