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Author Topic: succesful Denali climb  (Read 120 times)

Alex

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succesful Denali climb
« on: July 08, 2003, 09:57:14 AM »

A group from New England - Boris D. (my father), Katerina V., Aleksey B., Dmitry, Viktor, Sergey M. (California) as well as several several other people from Russia and one other from Califonria just returned from a spectacular trip to Denali. They first climbed the West Buttress (standard) route in just 10 days. Then Katerina, Boris, Dmitry and Aleksey set out for the West Rib - a technical route rated Alaska grade 4. After climbing the lower part of the Rib together, the team separated - Katerina and Dmitry went for the summit (again!), while Boris and Aleksey left the Rib at 16,000 feet, descended to the West Butt, joining it at the 14,200 foot "medical" camp and then went down to base camp, following the WB from there. They reached 16,000 feet on their fifth day from the camp at 7,800 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier.

Weather was warmer than normal, but with many white-out days, heavy snowfall and often fairly high winds. Nevertheless everything went pretty smoothly - no accidents, very good time, and they seem quite content. Congrats guys!

p.s. unfortunately I wasn't there this year, but I'm definitely planning on doing it at some point.
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Admin Al

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Re: succesful Denali climb
« Reply #1 on: July 08, 2003, 10:29:09 AM »

looks like New England did pretty well on Denali this season. my good friend Jim Gagne and his friends and partners Michelle and Dan also summitted late this season. word has it that there was a lot of snow this year.

congrats to all...

Al
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Alex

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Re: succesful Denali climb
« Reply #2 on: July 08, 2003, 11:58:12 AM »

congrats!

do you know which route they took? And what days they were there?
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Admin Al

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Re: succesful Denali climb
« Reply #3 on: July 08, 2003, 12:02:34 PM »

they did the West Buttress. I don't know what days they were there tho they have only been back 2 weeks or about. from what Jim said they were snowed in for days at a time. they got there just about the time of the plane crash.

Al
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Edge

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Re: succesful Denali climb
« Reply #4 on: July 14, 2003, 09:50:16 AM »

Alex,

I assume that the Katerina V. you speak of is Kate Vorotnikova?  If so, then climbing is truly a family affair since this past weekend her son Vasya won the Mens 16-17 category at Junior Nationals in Richmond, VA, and her daughter Nadya won the Female 12-13 category!

Major congrats to everyone!!!

Other New Englanders did well also with Zeb Engberg taking 3rd in M16-17, Kyle McCabe winning M14-15, Ben Wisniewski and Sam Hathaway placing 4th & 5th in M12-13, and Andy Lamb somewhere in the top 3 of M11 & under.  There are other climbers from NE who I have not heard the results for, but impressive showing everyone...
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OldEric

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Re: succesful Denali climb
« Reply #5 on: July 16, 2003, 11:17:15 AM »

Not that I am biased - but Zeb got 2nd.  So there.
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Edge

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Re: succesful Denali climb
« Reply #6 on: July 16, 2003, 11:29:36 AM »

Even better!!!  I was going on second hand information.  How did Nika do?
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Peg

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Re: succesful Denali climb
« Reply #7 on: July 16, 2003, 08:00:44 PM »

Also wanted to let folks know that Susan Dwyer and her husband, John Fitzgibbon, successfully climbed the Cassin this spring. I think she is the 4th woman to complete it.  
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OldEric

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Re: succesful Denali climb
« Reply #8 on: July 17, 2003, 08:55:39 AM »

Back to Nika (as she constantly says...)  She came in 8th (out of 10) in difficulty (one girl she actualy was about the same ability as, the other girl she beat just slipped low on the final route).  But the major "Nika news" is that she came in 3rd (out of 3!) in the speed competition (even though she could barely climb the route let alone go fast on it).  Since they go 4 deep for the team she made it.  She is already strutting around with all her "US Climbing Team" booty and making Bulgarian plans (while the rest of the family rolls their eyes, she is convinced she will be the world champion withot ever actually beating anybody - it's worked so far...)
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Dave R

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Re: succesful Denali climb
« Reply #9 on: July 20, 2003, 09:29:55 PM »

Congrats to everyone who went to Nationals. 8 members of the BRG team made nationals this year. Meg Georgevits came in #6 at finals in F12-13. The rest of the team had a tough weekend but all were happy just to make it to nationals. It should also be know that after comming in 2nd at nationals Zeb went to the New and flashed Lactic Acid Bath, 5.13a. YIKES!
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OldEric

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Re: succesful Denali climb
« Reply #10 on: July 21, 2003, 01:50:42 PM »

Actually Lactic Acid Bath checks in at 12d - but Zeb did indeed flash it along with a 13a next to it - after Vasya figured out the beta.  Zeb returned the favor for Vasya later in the day as he worked out the beta on Apollo Reed (another 13a) and Vasay used it to get the flash (Zeb got the redpoint on his 2nd go).  Watching Z and V butt heads is fun (for a parent anyway) - I guess they will be going at it again in Bulgaria in Sept.  
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