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Author Topic: learning to dry tool  (Read 1042 times)

tstorm11

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learning to dry tool
« on: October 18, 2007, 10:51:52 PM »

I really want to get into more mixed routes this year.  The problem though is that I stink at it , just need some practice.  Anybody got some ideas as far as easy M grades that are top ropeable. even before the ice gets here.  I've folowed stuff like hobbit coular and pegasus rock finish but have never been able get any skills down
thanks
steve thunstrom
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Admin Al

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Re: learning to dry tool
« Reply #1 on: October 19, 2007, 01:19:50 PM »

i'll probably get TRASHED for saying this...

you could walk up to Pegasus Rock Finish and TR it right now if you wanted! people do all of the routes on the Barber Wall as mixed routes. why not go there & TR those. what's the difference between doing them now or in the winter? there is little or no ice on them in the winter. I saw John Bragg on Child's Play in February couple of years ago and there was no ice on it except a dusting on the slab.

--al
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neiceclimber

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Re: learning to dry tool
« Reply #2 on: October 19, 2007, 01:55:49 PM »

Old railroad cuts/ quarries/ road cuts can work in a pinch.
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punxnotdead

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Re: learning to dry tool
« Reply #3 on: October 19, 2007, 05:06:32 PM »

at the top of franconia notch there is an awesome road cut with great ice and some great mixed climbing as well.  it is all easily top  roped.

bill
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DLottmann

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Re: learning to dry tool
« Reply #4 on: October 19, 2007, 10:30:48 PM »

There's stuff at Duck's Head too...
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sparrow

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Re: learning to dry tool
« Reply #5 on: October 29, 2007, 10:34:32 AM »

I know what you mean, tstorm.  I'm just getting into it too.  I want to get better at it, but there's not much in the way of bolted stuff, so you have to go and TR.  I had heard there were a few bolted climbs somewhere, but I'm not sure where they are.  Does anyone know?
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: learning to dry tool
« Reply #6 on: October 29, 2007, 11:15:22 AM »

Its as easy as getting out early season ;) all the climbs are mixed then. 8)
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terminusnout

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Re: learning to dry tool
« Reply #7 on: November 10, 2007, 03:01:45 PM »

you better learn by the katahdin trip steven!!!!!
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DLottmann

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Re: learning to dry tool
« Reply #8 on: November 10, 2007, 05:43:06 PM »

 ;D
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sparrow

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Re: learning to dry tool
« Reply #9 on: November 11, 2007, 07:16:15 PM »

I went up to Frankenstein today...it was a pretty cool day in the notch, sunny, maybe 25-30 F, with a bit of a wind.  There are icy drips forming everywhere there.  We played around on the railroad cut just past the bridge.  There were thin sheets of ice...perfect mixed climbing!  :)  I figure we'll have good ice in two or three weeks if this keeps up!
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Nick.B

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Re: learning to dry tool
« Reply #10 on: December 13, 2007, 10:18:39 AM »

I have been told to check out the mixed routes at Sundown, I think they all might be hard though. Are they graded or just stupidly hard? Any beta would be greatly appreciated!
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Re: learning to dry tool
« Reply #11 on: December 13, 2007, 10:56:48 AM »

there is some nice stuff in the RR cut up in Crawford Notch. I'm sure you could spend a day working on those & nobody would care.

--al
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bristolpipe

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Re: learning to dry tool
« Reply #12 on: January 03, 2008, 05:52:50 PM »

Practicing on RR cuts and abandoned quarries is legit, but the suggestions for a rank amateur to stroll up to the Barber wall and just go for it is criminal.

Ice tools, be they crampons or hand tools, have incredibly magnified mechanical advantage concentrated on a hardened point.  Flakes, crimps, micro-ledges, and other features can all suffer permanent damage. 

Is honing your ice skills worth damaging a 3 star rock climb permanently?
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Robbovius

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Re: learning to dry tool
« Reply #13 on: January 07, 2008, 03:22:48 PM »

Practicing on RR cuts and abandoned quarries is legit, but the suggestions for a rank amateur to stroll up to the Barber wall and just go for it is criminal.

Ice tools, be they crampons or hand tools, have incredibly magnified mechanical advantage concentrated on a hardened point.  Flakes, crimps, micro-ledges, and other features can all suffer permanent damage. 

Is honing your ice skills worth damaging a 3 star rock climb permanently?

of course it is, E#SPECIALLY if it pisses YOU off, in particular. why, I'm gonna go buy me some Ice tools RIGHT NOW!!!

Admin Al,  and the OP, pls forgive me, but I couldn't resist. ;-)
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ac

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Re: learning to dry tool
« Reply #14 on: January 07, 2008, 07:53:14 PM »


Bristolpipe is making a valid and serious point, so please, people, refrain from sarcastic remarks.
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