Author Topic: where was everybody?  (Read 95 times)

Offline Admin Al

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where was everybody?
« on: July 13, 2003, 02:41:10 PM »
so where was everyone today? Dogboy and I were over at the South Buttress from 8:30-1:30 and only saw one other party the whole time, and they didn't show up until late morning. I kept expecting to see folks on the Hotter Than Hell face & there was nobody there.

we did Cold Day In Hell and Jacob's Ladder. it was cool & sunny and dry, it doesn't get a lot better than this. <grin>  

al
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Re: where was everybody?
« Reply #1 on: July 13, 2003, 07:19:38 PM »
Getting seriously schooled on Cloudwalkers in Huntington. As a 5.6 leader with 6-8 5.7 leads I consider P1 a 5.7 route for 5.8 leaders. The first 20 feet was very wet and mossy with a couple of hand jams and easy climbing up to the horizontal break. From there to a small stance, (big loose boulder sitting on edge!!!!!), around 20 meters the crack was pinched down and offered no jams but a lot of small flakes, small horizonatl edges and a couple of finger pockets. The holds were good and offered some nice variety but were phychologically straining for a leader of my modest abilities due to a lack of bomber foot placements and small pro. I was able to get in a ton of gear but it was all small like swedges, 2 #2 BD stoppers, a tiny cam, and some other small stoppers. My beloved pink TRi-Cam never even got a chance. Made to to about 100-110 feet and didn't see anything promising in sight so put in a stopper w/ a biner and clipped in the rope to use this for some safety while downclimbing to the small stance at approximately 20 meters. There is an old fixed wire here that looked decent so I backed it up with a cam and a brown Tri-Cam and  rapped off. Hated leaving unsightly gear behind but it can easily be cleaned by someone dtronger than I and after considering the options available felt it was the safest option available. Well, that's my embarrasing story. Does anybody else have any "history" with this climb? I agree with the 5.7 rating but felt it was very sustained compared to the other 5.7's I have groveled up.