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Author Topic: Bugaboos  (Read 84 times)

Shawn

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Bugaboos
« on: July 14, 2003, 11:07:46 AM »

Wondering if anyone has any beta on climbs in the Bugaboos.  We are headed out west for a family visit and have three or four days to spend in the Bugs.  NE ridge of Bugaboo is definitely on our list.  I comfortably climb moderates around here and want to enjoy the climbing there...not looking to push myself grade wise.  
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om

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Re: Bugaboos
« Reply #1 on: July 14, 2003, 11:50:00 AM »

We spent two weeks in the Bugs in 2001, climbed NE ridge and some other moderates. The place is a paradise!!!
Let me know what beta you need and I'll get it to you. For now, you can look at this photo-report that a friend of mine has compiled
http://www.poxod.com/poxody/2001/Bugaboos.html
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Shawn

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Re: Bugaboos
« Reply #2 on: July 15, 2003, 06:26:22 AM »

Just looking for any suggestions as to must-do moderate routes.  Also have heard horror stories of epics on the descent from NE ridge of Bugaboo.  Is it as bad as people have made it to be or is it pretty much straight forward and you just have to pay attention?
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om

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Re: Bugaboos
« Reply #3 on: July 16, 2003, 09:47:41 AM »

I would recommend NE ridge route on Bugaboo and West ridge on Pigeon as a must. We also liked the Kain rt on Bugaboo and Ears Between on the Crescent towers(Donkey ears) but there is a bit of chimney in that, and you will be wearing a pack...

About descent from NE... Well, there is a possibility for a major screwup there. If you don't go where you need to, you might end up in deep %^%. We had no problems with it because we first did the Kain route, which ascents the "descent" from the NE. We had some minor issues finding the way up, mostly because there are number of ways to go. However, I'm not sure if I would be willing to deal with it for the first time on the way down in a bad weather... But maybe I can give you a better description of it now that I've been there.
The problem with doing the Kain and then NE is that once you spent couple hours downclimbing those scree slopes you won't be in a rush to get back on it next day ;)

I think it's best if you give me a call and I'll give you some more details. I would've emailed you my number if I knew your email, mine is om@cs.umb.edu
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DWarriner

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Re: Bugaboos
« Reply #4 on: July 16, 2003, 06:48:52 PM »

As I understand it (om correct me if I'm mistaken), but the issues with the NE Ridge of Bugaboo are that the descent route (Kain) is on the other side of the spire.  So once you get to the top of the NE Ridge proper you have to do a considerable amount of 4th class traversing to get to the descent.  The traversing is very exposed.  If you do not move quickly across the ridge, you could have problems.  I've heard of cases where people try to belay this whole section and get into problems.

-David

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om

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Re: Bugaboos
« Reply #5 on: July 16, 2003, 10:09:19 PM »

David is right, the traverse is fun too. I can't say that it's more exposed or tricky then the Kain rt or most of the climbing on the NE, but it's very exposed as far as the weather goes. Climbers are at the very top of the spire traversing between two summits for at least an hour without any way of retreating in case of a storm. There might be snow or ice on the rock. Also, traverse requires two or three rapps, which are only 10-15' long, but one would need to stop just in time, or will be forced to climb back up or traverse on much less pleasant grounds.
As far as belaying... I don't think we ever untied from the rope there. Don't think it's a big problem as long as you can still move fast.  
We don't have a single picture of the climb because most of the day was spent inside a cloud. It felt as if it could start raining any second and I don't think I ever climbed faster in my life. If someone would see us there, they might think we were scared or something...  ;)
All this sounds like a horror story, but way too many people survived this climb just fine, including truly yours, so it can't be that bad  :D
« Last Edit: July 16, 2003, 10:14:31 PM by om »
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