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Author Topic: Dial M for Murder  (Read 179 times)

Eric McCallister

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Dial M for Murder
« on: January 08, 2008, 12:52:43 PM »
Dial M for Murder, WI4+, M8
Climbed by myself and Jim Ewing on 1/6/08. Dial M climbs up and out the overhanging rock and ice above upper Hitchcock Gully, beginning just below the first ice bulge. A mixed line that has about 50/50 proportion of rock and ice. 6 bolts to ice screws at the top.

On the FA. Photo by Jim Ewing.



(Note: The route actually ascends to the right of the yellow line.)
« Last Edit: February 10, 2010, 04:32:43 PM by Eric McCallister »
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Admin Al

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Re: Dial M for Murder
« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2008, 12:55:14 PM »
sweet line Eric. congrats to you & to Jim for the second ascent.

--al
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Al Hospers
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slink

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Re: Dial M for Murder
« Reply #2 on: January 08, 2008, 01:34:23 PM »
 Great job guy's.I see the battery powered courage worked.It has surprised me at how long it has taken someone to do those lines up there. ;D
 Jim
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Admin Al

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Re: Dial M for Murder
« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2008, 01:42:50 PM »
I've looked at that area for years & I don't think that it could be done without bolts.

--al
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Al Hospers
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slink

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Re: Dial M for Murder
« Reply #4 on: January 08, 2008, 04:14:21 PM »
 You are right about the bolts Al.The comment about battery powered courage was something that I said to Eric when he was working the route.They needed A bolt after finding the ice not suitable for a screw.Again great job Eric and Jim.
 Jim
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old_school

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Re: Dial M for Murder
« Reply #5 on: January 08, 2008, 06:46:53 PM »
All Bolts Eric, or is there gear in there down low? What a cool looking route...well done!
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Eric McCallister

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Re: Dial M for Murder
« Reply #6 on: January 08, 2008, 08:46:14 PM »
Quote from: old_school on January 08, 2008, 06:46:53 PM
All Bolts Eric, or is there gear in there down low? What a cool looking route...well done!

The route is all bolts (6 total) except for the ice screw(s) at the top. There was only one place for a cam up around 4th-bolt height. The corner at the top also would not take gear or even pins. We actually first went up there hoping to lead it on gear with maybe a bolt or two, but it turned out it would have to have been all bolts with one placement. We also attempted to minimize the bolts, but I ended up adding a 6th (what is the 3rd bolt) after a near ground fall by myself (cringe!) from 1/3 of the way up the route.
« Last Edit: January 08, 2008, 08:47:45 PM by Eric McCallister »
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old_school

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Re: Dial M for Murder
« Reply #7 on: January 08, 2008, 09:37:25 PM »
Right on! Looks stout man...what a great looking line. Nice job you guys...
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DMan

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Re: Dial M for Murder
« Reply #8 on: January 09, 2008, 04:01:00 PM »
I watched you guys working this for a bit, and you said it would go down before dark... nice job! I liked the other name you were tossing around for it though...
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meclimber

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Re: Dial M for Murder
« Reply #9 on: January 10, 2008, 05:47:35 PM »
looks proud, great job guys.  Hindsight, I should have bought you a beer on sunday.  Congrats.
-jon
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Jon Howard

Eric McCallister

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Re: Dial M for Murder
« Reply #10 on: January 10, 2008, 06:31:25 PM »
Thanks for the thought, Jon! Was good to have company over a pie! Glad we ALL got out before this heatwave.
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peet

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Re: Dial M for Murder
« Reply #11 on: January 20, 2008, 07:13:34 PM »
Just wondering if the bolts were placed on lead or rap?
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