I've just returned from an 8 day visit to Squamish, BC (that's in Canada,between Vancouver and Whistler for the geographically challenged)--I spent a day there last August and was lucky enough to be able to return this year. The rock is identical to N. Conway granite, the weather was clear and dry ( no or low humidity) there were NO bugs and the trad cracks ate up pro. Add gobsmacking scenery, more than 1200 routes on 10 times as much rock as Cathedral and Whitehorse combined, including the StawamusChief which has trad and aid routes 1800' long, a superb brew pub, comfortable camping at several levels of facilities and expense, the Canadian $ exchange, access to crags as easy as Cathedral, all coupled with the possibility of alpine climbs nearby, glacier skiing at Whistler, kyacking, windsurfing, white water rafting, hiking and the best mt bike trails on the continent and you have the outdoor enthusiast's heaven. My "10 best climbs list" now contains at least 4 of the climbs we did last week and that's after a climbing career which covers 3 continents and more than 3 decades.
However if you are offended by bolts you should know before you go that on many of the heavily traveled routes the locals have chosen to protect the trees at the top by placing large Metolius lower off bolts. All the same the rock lends itself to being a trad climbers paradise at all levels from about 5.4 to 5.12. Yes, there are also hard sport routes developed to the mid 5.13 level within easy drives from the camping areas, if that's your thing. A 5.9 or occasional 5.10 leader (weekend warrior like me) will find a lifetime of challenges on fabulous rock. Does this suggest "road trip" to anyone else? Still ravin'--Jeff Lea