Author Topic: shoestring escare routes?  (Read 1897 times)

GRH

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shoestring escare routes?
« on: January 25, 2008, 04:21:05 PM »
Is Shoestring or Horseshoe Gully appropriate for beginners to experience snow climbs, or is there other places you would recommend?  Is there escape routes off the route without topping out?  I have never been up either of the routes and looking for some alpine experience without dealing with the extremes of Huntington ravine.  How do they compare to Central gully?  I have the equipment, 3 years of TR ice and attempted Central twice but both time chase off by changing weather. 

DLottmann

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Re: shoestring escare routes?
« Reply #1 on: January 25, 2008, 09:38:33 PM »
The far left or right side of Willey's makes for good snow climbing and you can toss in the occasional ice bulge if you like, but easily escape into the woods on either side if need be. The Flume and Silver Cascade are also good choices, close to the road and with easy walks down through the woods. Shoestring and Horseshoe are MUCH bigger days than they appear. Exiting them isn't really a choice, it's either up or down. Shoestring can have 2+ to 3- ice in it, or be mostly snow. The hardest thing in those climbs is deciding when to rope up, when to simul, when to 5th class (belay each pitch), to keep you moving and not waste much time, but provide enough safety. Bang out the Flume and Silver Cascade together in a day for practice first (they are right next to each other).

For Alpine the easier snow climbs are in Tuck's, like Right Gully and "The Lobster Claw". Classic snow climbs (beware of avy danger). Conditions can change from not needing crampons in the soft morning snow to bullet ice in the late afternoon once the sun has dipped below boot spur. Travel accordingly.

Final plug, consider taking a mountaineering course from a guide service and ask for an emphasis on learning different travel techniques for snow climbs. This is one of the hardest skills to develope IMHO.

GRH

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Re: shoestring escare routes?
« Reply #2 on: January 26, 2008, 01:02:54 PM »
Thanks, my partner bailed, so it wouldn't be this weekend, but I will attempt Willy's slide the next time I get up there.

thanks