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Author Topic: Mordor/Pendulum Roof  (Read 487 times)

bayard russell

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Mordor/Pendulum Roof
« on: February 14, 2008, 04:30:51 PM »

To all you old timers out there,

Climbed out the hanger/column between the Mordor and Pendulum Roofs the other day with Elliot Gaddy.  We went up Diagonal to the base of the column and downclimbed to the Sidewalk Ledge to get to the pitch.  Its really good, protects pretty well, and what an awesome place to be ice climbing.  I have looked in the guidebook and couldn't figure out if anyone had actually done it before.  There have been plenty of aid climbs that went around it via either of the two adjacent routes to get to the ice above, but does anyone remember the icicle being climbed?  Let me know.

Thanks,
Bayard Russell

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Admin Al

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Re: Mordor/Pendulum Roof
« Reply #1 on: February 14, 2008, 05:26:36 PM »

Bayard,

picture of you at the top of the roof on the main page. sorry I didn't get one of you on the pillar. I watched Elliott do the downclimb. that must have been entertaining on that sheet of ice.  :o  I have looked at that pillar for a number of years. I toproped it about 6 years ago, but the ice below wasn't good enough IMNSHO to belay down there. I believe that Uwe, Craig and Dave Kelly did a full winter ascent of the Mordor but not sure if they climbed that pillar.

regardless, nice job. that's like hanging off the edge of the world.

--al
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Al Hospers
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bayard russell

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Re: Mordor/Pendulum Roof
« Reply #2 on: February 18, 2008, 03:14:58 PM »

Steve Larson and Marc Chauvin did the whole Mordor Wall in 1979, finding the ice on the column straight forward.  Smart guys, waited for it to come in.
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Admin Al

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Re: Mordor/Pendulum Roof
« Reply #3 on: February 18, 2008, 05:31:55 PM »

Smart guys, waited for it to come in.

you could probably wait a lifetime for that.  ;D  at least with the global warming we're seeing.

--al
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Al Hospers
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DLottmann

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Re: Mordor/Pendulum Roof
« Reply #4 on: February 18, 2008, 08:17:23 PM »

Global warming yes... but I was over near Whitehorse today and there is a tremendous amount of ice on the slabs and above Mistaken Identify... some interesting lines appearing. If it gets real cold quick we could have some stuff to explore!
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Re: Mordor/Pendulum Roof
« Reply #5 on: February 18, 2008, 08:55:35 PM »

with all this water all we need is a bit of cold and tons of interesting things will come in. let's hope...

--al
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Al Hospers
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