Author Topic: good beginner area near Mt. Washington  (Read 3133 times)

Offline brendan98

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good beginner area near Mt. Washington
« on: May 30, 2008, 11:00:37 AM »
Hi,

My friends and I are new to climbing.  We've been doing top rope climbing in a gym for a couple of months in the 5.7 - 5.8 range.  This summer we're going to be in the whites at Mt. Washington and thought about climbing in the area.  By then we will have had at least some minimal experience outdoors (before we go).

I'm looking for recommendations for places to climb close to Mt. Washington (more or less) that has some fun climbs on the easy side.  Maybe a nice collection of 5.6-5.7 range routes and some bouldering?  I was hoping to find some sort of, like, google maps API map on here to give me an idea of what areas were closeby.

any advice would be great thanks.
-brendan

Offline neiceclimber

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Re: good beginner area near Mt. Washington
« Reply #1 on: May 30, 2008, 12:40:08 PM »
Square ledge just across the street from Pinkham Notch Visitor Center would seem to fit the bill. It has a short approach, several climbs in your range, good views, the only downside is that it may be busy.

HangingChad

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Re: good beginner area near Mt. Washington
« Reply #2 on: May 30, 2008, 12:52:38 PM »
What are you doing up in the Whites this summer?  I am working at AMC in Pinkham notch this summer.  Square ledge is good, lots of easy stuff.  You can head over to gilead and set up some top ropes there at tumbledown.  What kind of experience do you have (or going to have)? are you going to be setting up your own top ropes? or are you going to be leading trad?

Offline brendan98

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Re: good beginner area near Mt. Washington
« Reply #3 on: May 30, 2008, 01:31:15 PM »
thanks for the replies...

we'll be in the whites for my company's annual summer outing at mt. washington resort in July.  We won't be experienced enough to do trad climbing by this point for sure. We will basically have 3 months of gym top rope climbing under our belts, an outdoor top rope setup course (yet to be taken), and hopefully 1 trip outside to practice what we learned in the top rope class.

so we'd only be up for easier top rope routes and bouldering. 

thanks again!
-brendan

DLottmann

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Re: good beginner area near Mt. Washington
« Reply #4 on: May 30, 2008, 03:29:10 PM »
Check out ED WEBSTER Rock Climbs in the White Mountains, East

http://www.ems.com/catalog/product_detail_square.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442152763&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=282574489160846&bmUID=1212175518273

and the route descriptions on this website:

http://www.neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=routes_locationList&SortID=1&LocationID=24&ClimbingType=1

There are no bolted anchors to set top-ropes from so pick your trees carefully, some that are often used are quite ragged. To get the most out of the day consider hiring a guide until you get to know the area and how to setup bomber anchors.

I was at Square Wednesday... beautiful day and still snow on the rock pile.

July weekends can be crazy up there with camp groups, guided parties, etc. Tumbledown is a good back up plan.

Offline dpen

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Re: good beginner area near Mt. Washington
« Reply #5 on: May 30, 2008, 03:58:13 PM »
Dman,  where's Tumbledown?

Dave

Offline brendan98

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Re: good beginner area near Mt. Washington
« Reply #6 on: May 30, 2008, 04:01:52 PM »
Dman,  where's Tumbledown?

I had same question.  google knows nothing of this place :)

Offline neiceclimber

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Re: good beginner area near Mt. Washington
« Reply #7 on: May 30, 2008, 04:07:09 PM »
Webster's guide book would be a good purchase, or at least a quick thumb through in one of the climbing shops.

I haven't climbed at either of these, but since you'd be able to walk to them (from the Mount Washington Resort) what about the guides wall or Cosmic Crag? Not sure about the approach to cosmic, but the guides wall sounds pretty straight forward.

Tumbledown is north of Mt. Washington, google Gilead, NH.


bristolpipe

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Re: good beginner area near Mt. Washington
« Reply #9 on: May 30, 2008, 04:41:29 PM »
Top roping in your local gym and top roping outdoors are two completely different beasts. 

Who among you is qualified to set up anchors and guarantee their safety?

I don't think one outdoor course is enough to bet your lives on.  Hire a guide and live to tell about your adventures.

And, btw, there is no area in NH that excels for 5.7ish climbing.  Square ledge is small, over-popular, and extremely limited.  Tumbledown is equally limited and tick infested.  Rumney appeals to gym rats, but top ropes are hard to impossible to set up and the good climbing begins at 5.9 (really 5.11, but that is another story).

Offline brendan98

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Re: good beginner area near Mt. Washington
« Reply #10 on: May 30, 2008, 04:52:14 PM »
Hire a guide and live to tell about your adventures.
I have no problem with this.  where does one go to hire guides?  and how much does 6 or so hours of guiding run ya these days?
thanks again everyone for all the replies,
-brendan

Offline Admin Al

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Re: good beginner area near Mt. Washington
« Reply #11 on: May 30, 2008, 04:57:43 PM »
I have no problem with this.  where does one go to hire guides?  and how much does 6 or so hours of guiding run ya these days?
thanks again everyone for all the replies,

there are several good guide companies as well as private guides in the area. you can look in the Links section of this site for a pretty good listing. prices are all in the same ballpark, but I suggest you look at the individual web sites to see what they are currently. FWIW I guide for International Mountain Climbing School (IMCS) and DMan works for EMS.

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bristolpipe

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Re: good beginner area near Mt. Washington
« Reply #12 on: May 30, 2008, 04:58:16 PM »
I have no problem with this.  where does one go to hire guides? 

Art Mooney

Mooneymountainguides.com

Tell him Lionel recommended him.

Offline brendan98

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Re: good beginner area near Mt. Washington
« Reply #13 on: May 30, 2008, 05:13:05 PM »
thanks again everyone.  I'll look into getting a guide for the day we're up there.

cheers,
-brendan

Offline KB

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Re: good beginner area near Mt. Washington
« Reply #14 on: June 02, 2008, 08:53:36 PM »
I'm a beginner myself and Square Ledge is the first place I ever climbed.  I went thru EMS Climbing School.  I had such a good time and felt so comfortable that I have gone back to them every time.  I specifically request Paul Cail as my guide.  Granted, I have no one to compare him to but this guy is a fantastic guide.  Very knowledgeable and safety oriented.  And also, just a great guy who's fun to climb with.  I have been climbing 7 or 8 times and I'm still not sure I would be comfortable setting up top ropes and being responsible for everyone's safety.  Another good beginner climb (with a guide) is Standard Route on Whitehorse Ledge.  Great exposure.  Anyway, good luck.