Author Topic: science friction wall  (Read 196 times)

Offline JAY

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science friction wall
« on: November 28, 2001, 06:57:12 AM »
Hey everyone science friction wall is on my hitlist for the weekend anyone ever done it? just wanting to see if anyone would recommend it or not, the route looks killer.
jay

Offline Admin Al

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Re: science friction wall
« Reply #1 on: November 28, 2001, 05:56:31 PM »
I haven't done it myself but I was up there on Unicorn a couple of weeks ago & it really looked very cool. a couple of people have said that a better start is the Sky Streak start. I did that one as a alternate to Unicorn's start. it was 10b & pretty stiff. after you get past the first 2 bolts, the crux, it eases off a lot but is run out.

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Offline JAY

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Re: science friction wall
« Reply #2 on: November 29, 2001, 08:47:16 AM »
thanks for the info al, i should probably have some pictures for you soon from red river. i don't know about this weekend with all the rain and snow up there?
jay

Offline om

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Re: science friction wall
« Reply #3 on: December 05, 2001, 12:45:36 PM »
not sure it you still need the info, but anyway... I've been on this route twice this summer. Only last two pitches however. I think one can start all the way from the ground too. The first pitch (Sky Streak) was described earlier, but in order to get to the SF anchor you have to go 20-30' higher and left from Last Unicorn anchors. There are couple good nut placements(small to medium), otherwise it's quite ran out. I think I might've placed gear after the second bolt too. Last pitch(i only followed it) is bolted very well, you won't need any gear. Don't start traversing too early, go higher then the overhang, clip the bolt, then traverse right.
it's a great climb, have fun!!!
-om