Author Topic: The Captain  (Read 1774 times)

strandman

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The Captain
« on: December 03, 2008, 10:23:05 AM »
Seems to be some interest in this cliff so I'll put in what I have done. This route is not "new" having been done 11 years ago but it is not in any guidebooks.

Puttin' In Time III 5.11-
Lortie/Strand 1997
P1- just left of the toe  of the main slab. Start up easy climbing past 2 bolts to a bit  of 5.8 then traverse left to good ledge(bolts) 5.8 90'

P2- Move left on killer rock(small cams) to 3 bolts on a perfect slab 5.10 semi-hanging belay 55'
P3- Classic ! Go up and slightly right past bolts on really good rock. Cool edges and great situation. 5.11- 90' Small belay ledge (bolts)
P4- Move up to a bolt then run out up and right (can get wet) over a bulge and finally a good tree belay. 5.9 120'

Rap 3 times with 2 ropes back to the ground.

One of the top backcountry routes  in NH

Approach- This is the tough part- From the end of Sawyer River road, start up a mountain bike path on the right, follow this for a couple of miles until you see a bridge on the left. Go up a hill on the right and eventually a clearing(cliff visible). From the back left side of the clearing, go through a wet area and pass a good size boulder. A bad blow down area is next that can be skirted on the left and going down to the river. Follow the river a ways to a good campsite at a gravel bed (good water). My advise is to camp here. Go up a long narrow gully on your right to the base of a 150' cliff (no routes) then go straight left and level along a faint "trail" that brings you directly to the base of the cliff.

I would allow 2-3 hours to the camp and another hour to the cliff, especially on a first visit.A mountain bike can really help on the way out, leave it at the clearing and you can be back at the car in a half hour.

dpen

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Re: The Captain
« Reply #1 on: December 03, 2008, 11:24:54 AM »
Thx Strandman, sounds very cool.

Offline bubbalee

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Re: The Captain
« Reply #2 on: March 08, 2009, 08:21:17 PM »
i have been to the captian several times and following the gully from the campsite is not the best way to go.
instead go directly into the streambed  next to the campsite. the one you followed to get to the campsite.
follow the streambed up (its usually dry most of the way) untill you are directly  across from the base of the lowest slab on the caption then beeline through blowdowns to the slabs. you will know when you have gone far enough because it becomes impenetrable instantly then hang a right turn to the cliff. this is at the top of some open slabs on the brook at which point you can see directly over to the cliff. as for the bike thing. when you reach the clearing where the bridge is an your left keep riding or walking your bike through the far end of the clearing (its obvious) as far up the old logging roas/trail untill you reach the high point on the trail. its a little bit radical coming down riding with your pack on but the quick descent is worth the effort

Offline Admin Al

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Re: The Captain
« Reply #3 on: March 08, 2009, 10:21:58 PM »
strandman -

thanks for posting this. can I add it to the route area? who did the FA? I'll have to check it out this summer after bug season.

someone said that there is a very long 5.10 up there. do you know anything about that?

thanks

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Buzzsaw

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Re: The Captain
« Reply #4 on: March 09, 2009, 07:08:09 PM »
Al, I think that is the long 5.10 up there. 5.10c/d or maybe 5.11a? Strand you old slabber I should have known that was yours way out there. Fun route in cooler temps. Bubba has the best beta on the aproach to the base of the cliff. I highly recommend the climb. I think the rating is more like 5.10c than 5.11. Jon

strandman

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Re: The Captain
« Reply #5 on: March 09, 2009, 07:45:53 PM »
WOW ! people have been out here ! I did the stream approach first and found it poor and did the gully every other time. Still 10C / we must have been pumped after 4 visits.

Cool rock and situations, a nice area. Adding a bike out really adds to the experience with new route gear.

Have fun guys, lots more to do !

john

I tried to add to the new routes but I'm to stupid to know how.

Offline Admin Al

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Re: The Captain
« Reply #6 on: March 10, 2009, 05:09:37 PM »
I posted it in the routes section here:

http://www.neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=routes_locationList&SortID=1&LocationID=37&ClimbingType=1

I don't have an 11- rating so I did it as 10d for now.

is this near the back side of Green's Cliff or something? would it be easier to access from the Sawyer River Trail off the Kanc? BTW I can't find a mountain/crag by that name in the topos.

http://terraserver-usa.com/image.aspx?T=2&S=14&Z=19&X=97&Y=1525&W=1

thanks again for posting this one.

--al
Al Hospers
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strandman

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Re: The Captain
« Reply #7 on: March 10, 2009, 07:32:23 PM »
I guess you can come in from K but CRAZY !! The established approach is not that bad.

dpen

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Re: The Captain
« Reply #8 on: March 10, 2009, 08:14:44 PM »
Al, have you seen this:

http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?object_id=440635

On your topo link scroll left between Hancock and Carrigain and look for the little pond.

I believe the Captain is the steep cliff in front of the pond.    You can see it good on Google Maps, but didn't know how to link to that....

Dave

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Re: The Captain
« Reply #9 on: March 11, 2009, 10:19:18 AM »
can you see this cliff from the Kanc? when I ride my bike up the Kanc there is a cliff I see on the right that looks very similar to this.

--al
Al Hospers
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strandman

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Re: The Captain
« Reply #10 on: March 11, 2009, 10:29:46 AM »
Nope. The Captain can't be seen from the K. Al you might be seeing Green's or the big slabs under the K hairpins. Carrigan pond is atop and slightly behind the Captain. I have only been up there once and it was BAD !!!!
While on the subject of Greens ?! Anyone who says the best way in is from the north via the campground road and Mt Oscar area is crazy. The approach from Bear Notch or bike in from the K is way better.

john

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: The Captain
« Reply #11 on: March 15, 2009, 04:06:28 PM »
Watch out for the Freddie Krueger types that huant those woods, for real
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."
-Ralph Waldo Emerson

The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. John Kenneth Galbrait

strandman

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Re: The Captain
« Reply #12 on: March 15, 2009, 07:28:10 PM »
When we first went in, we ran into some guys who were snowshoeing !  In MAY ! They also had a tepee set up and GOD knows what else. I don't think they can make it to the crag though.

dpen

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Re: The Captain
« Reply #13 on: March 24, 2009, 08:48:33 AM »
M_Sprague, for real, for real?  It is pretty remote.  There could still be a lost tribe or clan out there.

I ran into a hermit living over off of Carter Range.  Kinda creepy...

strandman

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Re: The Captain
« Reply #14 on: March 24, 2009, 10:28:21 AM »
M_Sprague, for real, for real?  It is pretty remote.  There could still be a lost tribe or clan out there.

I ran into a hermit living over off of Carter Range.  Kinda creepy...
We stumbled on a cave/cabin off Bear Notch one time. Don't know if it was still active, but it was fully stocked with cookware, cups, etc. Even a water collection system coming off the boulder. Some cool highballs on the back of the boulder too.