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Author Topic: New NEI 3+ on West Royce  (Read 311 times)

greg bell

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New NEI 3+ on West Royce
« on: November 08, 2008, 09:09:34 AM »

Sometime around 2002, Ken Ford and I hiked in from The Basin parking lot to this 2 pitch NEI 3+ line near the summit of West Royce.  Jason Phelps and I returned in 2005 to verify the quality and the grade.  Set deep in a large north-east facing chimney, this route gets little sun and gets really fat.
To find it, follow the Royce Trail for a couple of miles until it begins to veer right below open south-facing slabs on a shoulder of East Royce.  Bushwhack left into the woods, staying well below the slabs, and follow the drainage up toward the West Royce - East Royce saddle.  The chimney will become visible among the cliffs on the east face of West Royce high on your left.
The first pitch is a scrappy mixed pitch (pretty easy) that takes you to a large tree ledge.  The second pitch climbs the beautiful ice fall in the back of the chimney.  At the top of the steep ice walk 15 or 20 feet to a steep ice hose coming down the right wall.  Climb it to trees or squeeze past and continue up the chimney/gully to belay off trees on the left.
This line was first spotted by Bob Parrot while skiing on Blueberry Mtn and was later dubbed "Too Far for Nothing Gully" by Dave Lattimer after repeated attempts to locate it.

Greg Bell
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