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Author Topic: Debolting Thin Air  (Read 2672 times)

t-rad

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Re: Debolting Thin Air
« Reply #210 on: November 14, 2003, 12:49:19 PM »

'The Crystal Horizon', by Rheinhold Messner is his account of being the first person to solo Everest, alpine style, without Sherpa support or oxygen, and by a new route on the Chinese side.  There isn't anything about rock climbing in it, but the ethic he adhered to during (and leading up to) that ascent is universal enough to inspire me to climb clean at all times.

Jim, I don't think DMan is making up rules for you to follow or break, just expressing his views on what traditional climbing is all about.  There is plenty of room for discussion in the issue without getting offended.

-a
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DLottmann

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Re: Debolting Thin Air
« Reply #211 on: November 14, 2003, 01:58:06 PM »

Alright Jim, I said in my post that was only one definition of traditional climbing, and that there were many variations of that.  Judging by your response and attitude I think I will take a guess as to what type of climber you are.  Asshole right?
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sparky

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Re: Debolting Thin Air
« Reply #212 on: November 14, 2003, 04:47:56 PM »

Quote
Geez!  I guess since it's the "COMPLETE Rock Climber" and it's actually written in a book then it must be so.  And to think I've been doing it wrong all these years.

The funny thing about these bulletin boards is you guys make up rules faster than I can break them.  Fortunately I had a good head start; I've been climbing long enough that I've broken most of the rules before they were made.



Wow, off like a prom dress...15 pages ;D

Right ON Jimmy.....School em'

A local legend! :)
How do you feel about the bolts on TA 3rd pitch??
We need more "legends" and "cliff stewards"
"old schoolers" speaking up about this topic...
Where is Hurley, Chauvin, Ritchey, Wilcox, Surette, Bouchard, Dunn, Barber, Parrot, Larson?? So many to include...... ::)
You guys should voice concern...
« Last Edit: November 14, 2003, 05:00:16 PM by sparky »
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redpoint73

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Re: Debolting Thin Air
« Reply #213 on: July 24, 2007, 11:15:40 AM »

I climbed Thin Air this past Sunday, and one of the hangers is missing from the 2-bolt anchor after pitch 2 (the traverse).  Based on this thread, it seems to me this hanger was not removed in the 2003 debolting.  The bolt is still there and looks great, just the hanger and nut are missing.  The other bolt is fine.

My question is:  was the hanger damaged, or was it removed for aesthetic/ethics reasons like the bolts in 2003?

This belay is not exactly festooned with bomber cracks to place gear, such as at the top of pitch 3 (on top of the tree/chimney).  There is a spot to place a cam under the bolts, but thats about it.  You can also climb up a move or so, and there is another cam placement that you can also use to backup the bolt.  Aside from that, I think thats all.  Of course, you can sling a nut over the bolt w. the missing hanger, but this is obviously less bomber than a bolt hanger.  And belaying from a bolt and a nut-slung bolt hardly seems any more natural or traditional than 2 bomber bolts.

The missing hanger seemed to cause a good amount of cluster-f_ck on Sunday.  I saw at least 2 parties (which both seemed a bit inexperienced) climb down to the Turners Flake anchor and belay from there.  Mind you, these moves are much harder than 5.6.  And one girl actually fell/slid down to the Turners' Flake anchor while downclimbing, after clipping the bolt on the "regular" anchor.  Using the Turner's Flake anchor is less than ideal, b/c it interferes with the traffic on that route.

I would be curious to hear why the hanger was removed.

Any comments or thoughts?
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Admin Al

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Re: Debolting Thin Air
« Reply #214 on: July 24, 2007, 11:28:49 AM »

oh not again, please!!!!!
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CTCLMBR

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Re: Debolting Thin Air
« Reply #215 on: July 24, 2007, 08:48:44 PM »

The hanger was loose about a month ago. I finger tightened it but had nothing to snug it up.
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chazrock

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Re: Debolting Thin Air
« Reply #216 on: July 24, 2007, 11:04:41 PM »

I am planning on climbing Thin Air later this week. I will bring a hanger and a nut and install it if need be.

Charlieb
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slobmonster

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Re: Debolting Thin Air
« Reply #217 on: July 26, 2007, 01:23:47 AM »

The hanger was loose about a month ago. I finger tightened it but had nothing to snug it up.
FWIW a #13 Stopper can be used as a wrench... in a pinch.

Also, the #9 (I think, whatever's the smallest one with a hole) can be utilized as an emergency smoking device.
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CTCLMBR

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Re: Debolting Thin Air
« Reply #218 on: July 26, 2007, 08:51:05 AM »

I searched my rack over and over for a makeshift wrench. Thanks for the tip(s).
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JBrochu

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Re: Debolting Thin Air
« Reply #219 on: July 30, 2007, 01:52:13 PM »

I searched my rack over and over for a makeshift wrench. Thanks for the tip(s).

More importantly, you can use a biner to open a beer bottle. 
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frik

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Re: Debolting Thin Air
« Reply #220 on: July 30, 2007, 02:01:44 PM »

I can open a beer with a stopper as well
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Flotsam

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Re: Debolting Thin Air
« Reply #221 on: September 06, 2007, 09:27:04 PM »

I can open a beer with a stopper as well

You can use most climbing gear to open a beer.  Reversos, Biners, Stoppers, Rigid Cams, Nut Tools, even ATCs.


The only thing I don't think will open a beer is a GriGri.
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bikewrench

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Re: Debolting Thin Air
« Reply #222 on: September 12, 2007, 09:23:19 PM »

A Gri Gri will open a beer bottle but you have to do it they way they show in the Petzl catalog.
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