Author Topic: Ice Bouldering  (Read 3685 times)

RhodeIslandJeff

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Ice Bouldering
« on: January 16, 2009, 10:49:15 AM »
I'm pretty new to Ice climbing and my main motivation is more alpine but obviously RI has no alpine. Being pretty bummed about not being able to head north the last couple weeks got me thinking. I mostly boulder because thats mostly what I have where I live. Keeps me in shape and helps me improve. The recent cold spell has brought in some short waterfall ice spots around Westerly. Not really top rope material. So to make the best of my circumstances I'm giving ice bouldering a shot this winter.

Anyone else ever tool around on the short stuff? Any advice?



No size reference but I'm guessing 15-17 feet.





« Last Edit: April 18, 2009, 07:11:09 PM by RhodeIslandJeff »

Offline JBro

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Re: Ice Bouldering
« Reply #1 on: January 16, 2009, 11:27:55 AM »
I used to ice boulder at a railroad cut in I think Londenderry, NH (idk maybe it was Salem). It was pretty sweet, about 10' to 12' tall minumum with a max 18' pillar and about 100' across. I would just get up on it and stay off the ground as long as I could and practice placing scews, etc. It helped my climbing a ton.

Just be careful about pushing your limits because you don't have to fall far to break an ankle if you land wrong with crampons on. I looked at it more as endurance and confidence building training.
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Re: Ice Bouldering
« Reply #2 on: January 16, 2009, 12:04:39 PM »
I started out ice climbing by bouldering on a RR cut in Needham. it was only about 10' high, but it was very neat.I would move up and down, traverse back & forth & generally practice crampon & swing technique. there were some places where it was about 12 feet & I would try topping out in the turf. I still go out ice boudering at least once a week 'cause I don't have time to go somewhere with a partner & climb. tho now it's probably more like ice soloing. it's an especially good thing to do in the early season to get used to the tools & crampons again. I agree with JBrochu about not pushing too hard tho, especially in the beginning.catching a crampon would ruin your season.

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Mike G

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Re: Ice Bouldering
« Reply #3 on: January 16, 2009, 03:00:34 PM »
   I have alot of week day time off this winter and would love to find a place in the Concord,NH if anyone knows of an area close by. For the quick work out I usually go to my basement climbing  wall w/tools and rock shoes. Not the same but you can get a good workout.   Mike

alclimbup2

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Re: Ice Bouldering
« Reply #4 on: January 16, 2009, 04:09:38 PM »
R.I. Jeff: yeah I think anyone that ice climbs regular sees frozen ice in the backyard, woods, roadcuts and thinks about playing on it. Yes ice boulder away, preferably with someone, but if not just be carefull how high you go and dont be somewhere if you did break an ankle or something where it would take hours to get out.

I thought that 15-17 foot place would be fine to set up a TR. If you are not comfortable soloing it, set up a TR, that is not too short at all and you could do variations on the rope.

Does Lincoln Woods get any ice to "boulder" around on I wonder   

JakeDatc

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Re: Ice Bouldering
« Reply #5 on: January 16, 2009, 11:24:48 PM »
Please for the love of dinojesus  stay off any LW  boulder with holds on it.    We already had one  brilliant GUIDE from NH  drytool a 3 star classic route and break stuff a few years back.

that said there could be some potential in the chossy spots that don't get climbed.   If you're not a LW regular  then perhaps ask on Newenglandbouldering.com for some ideas on where to go.   Though finding more out of the way areas  might be a better idea as it only takes one idiot seeing you climbing choss and then the next minute  they are up there hacking away at Try again or something

alclimbup2

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Re: Ice Bouldering
« Reply #6 on: January 17, 2009, 09:14:05 AM »
Yes, I do agree with Jake, I am not much of a boulderer or sport climber, and don't live near Lincoln Woods, just was wondering out loud about potential ice bouldering.

I myself like trad rock and ice and mixed trad climbing but most of that would be on alpine routes or some hidden gems here in southern NH and dont always think in advance about Jakes point but I know the boulderer and sporties love their thing as much of mine, so I do keep that in mind when I ice climb at Rumney and would do the same at Lincoln.

Lincoln woods is about the biggest and best thing down there I think and any established boulder routes should not be scratched up in any way, luckily, a lot of ice climbs do form in chossy areas, so common sense should rule here

Jake: just curious, how did peoploe know it was 100% sure that a climber from NH did the damage?, sorry it happened

Mike G

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Re: Ice Bouldering
« Reply #7 on: January 17, 2009, 04:50:00 PM »
I hope the NH guide didn't come down there and scratch up any graffiti or worse yet, bust up a hoooker turnin a trick. Second thought, are you sure it just wasn't some kid havin a bad trip and got loose w/his parents gardening tools. ::)

JakeDatc

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Re: Ice Bouldering
« Reply #8 on: January 17, 2009, 06:57:44 PM »
People saw him out there and knew who he was.  I've met him and he's a super nice guy.. just made a mental mistake one day.   It wasn't some random person. 

Mike there isn't much paint on the usual boulders.  A bit down at pond cave and the "famous"  Peace dove.  The park has actually closed one of the gates to prevent the uhh.. rendevous  of sorts in the Sit down area

the Woods are as good as it can be for the location they are at..  It's easy to get to and easy to get around in  and there are some pretty high quality problems.   The downsides are pretty limited if you can ignore a bit of music in the summer... in the winter it's empty and the friction is much better anyway.  Folks  have been climbing rock there for over 30 years. 

There are definitely chossy places around the Woods that *could* make ice..  i just don't remember any good flows off the top of my head. 

thanks for not drytooling our boulders... people would be extremely pissed

Robbovius

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Re: Ice Bouldering
« Reply #9 on: January 21, 2009, 01:01:20 PM »
RIJeff, that's exactly what I did when I started climbing ice last winter, I snuck in to Purgtatory Chasm in Sutton MA and played on this neat 12-15 foot high icicle/ramp flow that comes in every year.

take time with your feet, make sure they're positive before you try to move up. I have found - even with my limited experience - that ice and rock climbing are similar for the beginner, in that one tends to focus on hands at the expense of feet, early on.

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Re: Ice Bouldering
« Reply #10 on: January 21, 2009, 07:03:00 PM »
in fact just like rock climbing, it's all about the feet!

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RhodeIslandJeff

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Re: Ice Bouldering
« Reply #11 on: January 22, 2009, 10:25:37 AM »
Thanks for all the great advice.

The cold nights have brought the rare oppurtunties to southern New England and are making this climbless spell actually enjoyable. No worries about Lincoln Woods Jake. Too far out of my way and if I had that kind of time I'd go to Wolfhill Quarry which is sooo in right now (me and my bud went there last saturday, sorry no pics).

Me and my friend have been checking all the closed quarries with no luck so far. Ice bouldering will have to do locally.

Cheers

randy j goat

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Re: Ice Bouldering
« Reply #12 on: February 04, 2009, 10:22:01 AM »


Does Lincoln Woods get any ice to "boulder" around on I wonder   

 Think I would avoid  doing any ice bouildering in any established rock bouldering area. Besides arn't all the LW boulders free standing and free of any water supply from above?

randy j goat

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Re: Ice Bouldering
« Reply #13 on: February 04, 2009, 10:27:00 AM »
Ice bouldering [or Ice cubeing as someone once called it ;D]  is alot of fun and yeah,do it all the time. It is a fun way to experiment a little or just a great quick work out. Also allows you to be a little creative.

 Keep in mind that even a small fall can really mess you up if you catch a crampon or fall on a tool. Good luck finding anyone to spot you . ;D

randy j goat

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Re: Ice Bouldering
« Reply #14 on: February 06, 2009, 08:12:18 AM »
The problem arose when aspiring mixed climbers decided to dry tool the boulders for practice.  Additionally, not all of the classic lines there are on free standing boulders.  Quite a few are on mini cliff bands that definitely have water run off.

 yeah I have only been there once and it was years ago. Back before allmost anyone used crash pads and no one wore knit beenies and no shirts. ::) I do rember haveing alot of fun there.