NEClimbs.com forum

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

Reading the forum on your cell phone? There's an easier way. We've enabled a Tapatalk app that makes browsing the forum a whole lot easier. Check it out in the iPhone or Android store if you don't own it already.

Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: Bomb's Away!!!  (Read 644 times)

HangingChad

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 119
Bomb's Away!!!
« on: January 16, 2009, 05:31:49 PM »

So I guess I'll put myself out there for some fun also.  Hardly an epic...just an embarassing mis-adventure, haha.  So it was november, early season in huntington.  A friend and myself were heading up to Pinnacle.  Along the way we caught up with a gentlemen who was going to solo Odell's.  He mentiond that pinnacle wasn't very good, as a friend of his told him the day before.  He said that Odell's was fat.  So we decided just to go check that out.  the temp was about 0 to -5 ish, and had a wind chill of -10 to -20 with speeds gusting at about 50 to 60 in the ravine, max gust of 100+ at the summit.  So the conditions were pretty intense.  When we got to odell's we let the soloist go first, figured he would cruise on up by the time we were even tied in.  got the ropes set up, and the gentlmen was out of sight, minimal ice was coming down so I figured he was pretty far ahead.  So I started up the climb, started nearing the belay and I looked up and saw that the gentlemen was just ahead of me not moving.  I apoligized for catching up with him, and asked if anything was wrong.  His crampon popped off multiple times and was giving him trouble.  Luckily he brought rope solo gear, so He anchored himself in.  I offered to climb past him and set an anchor, and give him a belay for the rest of the climb.  he grateful accepted.  So I started to climb, and made it a mere few feet past him, and I took one more step and felt the rope stretch...I realized I had just ran out of rope.  I was pretty amazed at how fast you run out of rope on low angle stuff.  So I setup an anchor and tied myself in.  Wind was crankin, and I was tryin to make sure I wasn't stompin on the other dudes anchor.  The wind gusted very strong, so I hunched over and grabbed onto the one tool in the ice.  What I didn't realize was that my other tool was still slung around my neck.  I hear a couple clanks, and a "oh F***" from the guy behind me.  Just realizing I just dropped my tool, I try to yell out ROCK, doubt anyone could hear me below, then let out a few cuss's myself.  My belay saw the tool come cranking down the gully, and it nearly took off some poor fellow's head.  (Which I think I remember him saying he posts here, so maybe he can add some to the story), The soloing guy had fixed his crampon and now asked if I needed any help.  I said I was really sure, but I should be alright, I'll either finish or rap off but thanks anyways.  During this time the guy who almost got taken out by my tool retrived it for me, and gave it to my second.  He followed up, gave me my gear, and I scampered up the rest of the climb, only minorly traumatized from the conditions and seeing my tool flying down the ice.  We took the left variation, and exited down south gully trying to avoid the greater wind speeds on the ridge.  Now that heinous bushwack is a whole other story...but we came out fine, but I lost a lot of sanity in south gully.
Logged

davidaguasca

  • NEClimbs Newbie
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2
Re: Bomb's Away!!!
« Reply #1 on: January 24, 2009, 12:31:52 AM »

Yeah. you were done after that bushwhack.
Logged

NY Climber

  • NEClimbs Newbie
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 33
    • Face Book
Re: Bomb's Away!!!
« Reply #2 on: March 11, 2013, 04:29:05 AM »

So I guess I'll put myself out there for some fun also.  Hardly an epic...just an embarassing mis-adventure, haha.  So it was november, early season in huntington.  A friend and myself were heading up to Pinnacle.  Along the way we caught up with a gentlemen who was going to solo Odell's.  He mentiond that pinnacle wasn't very good, as a friend of his told him the day before.  He said that Odell's was fat.  So we decided just to go check that out.  the temp was about 0 to -5 ish, and had a wind chill of -10 to -20 with speeds gusting at about 50 to 60 in the ravine, max gust of 100+ at the summit.  So the conditions were pretty intense.  When we got to odell's we let the soloist go first, figured he would cruise on up by the time we were even tied in.  got the ropes set up, and the gentlmen was out of sight, minimal ice was coming down so I figured he was pretty far ahead.  So I started up the climb, started nearing the belay and I looked up and saw that the gentlemen was just ahead of me not moving.  I apoligized for catching up with him, and asked if anything was wrong.  His crampon popped off multiple times and was giving him trouble.  Luckily he brought rope solo gear, so He anchored himself in.  I offered to climb past him and set an anchor, and give him a belay for the rest of the climb.  he grateful accepted.  So I started to climb, and made it a mere few feet past him, and I took one more step and felt the rope stretch...I realized I had just ran out of rope.  I was pretty amazed at how fast you run out of rope on low angle stuff.  So I setup an anchor and tied myself in.  Wind was crankin, and I was tryin to make sure I wasn't stompin on the other dudes anchor.  The wind gusted very strong, so I hunched over and grabbed onto the one tool in the ice.  What I didn't realize was that my other tool was still slung around my neck.  I hear a couple clanks, and a "oh F***" from the guy behind me.  Just realizing I just dropped my tool, I try to yell out ROCK, doubt anyone could hear me below, then let out a few cuss's myself.  My belay saw the tool come cranking down the gully, and it nearly took off some poor fellow's head.  (Which I think I remember him saying he posts here, so maybe he can add some to the story), The soloing guy had fixed his crampon and now asked if I needed any help.  I said I was really sure, but I should be alright, I'll either finish or rap off but thanks anyways.  During this time the guy who almost got taken out by my tool retrived it for me, and gave it to my second.  He followed up, gave me my gear, and I scampered up the rest of the climb, only minorly traumatized from the conditions and seeing my tool flying down the ice.  We took the left variation, and exited down south gully trying to avoid the greater wind speeds on the ridge.  Now that heinous bushwack is a whole other story...but we came out fine, but I lost a lot of sanity in south gully.

Great story honestly - glad you came out of it OK. This is why even tho I climb unleashed now per se - I prefer to use a umbilical for my ice tools unless TR-ing of on any climb where IF I was to drop one of my tools - I'd be in some serious doo doo! Glad you came out of it unhurt!
Logged
Michael Urban, RN
Pages: [1]   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.172 seconds with 23 queries.