Author Topic: the classics forgottten ?  (Read 1928 times)

Offline strandman

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the classics forgottten ?
« on: March 17, 2009, 08:22:43 PM »
Budapest
Light in the Forest
Possesed
western lady
the arete

eliminate
full children's
sbd

Knight flyer
Heavy Weather Sailing

Lab Wall


Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: the classics forgottten ?
« Reply #1 on: March 17, 2009, 10:17:40 PM »
Does anyone still do SSS on cannon? Is it really sketchy since the rockfall?

Offline meclimber

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Re: the classics forgottten ?
« Reply #2 on: March 18, 2009, 08:09:33 AM »
Sam's is on the agenda for this year.  A buddy did the british last year and had a great time, kinda opened ours eyes to a different type of climbing.
Good list john, lights in the forest is great, my partner and I got our butts handed to us on the 4th 'arch' pitch.  The chimney pitch is one of the best on the cliff.  We've also done about 2/3rds of forest of fanghorn but backed off due to loose scary chimney/aid climbing.  Some of those others I've wanted to due but are a little out of reach for me now.  I think that night flyer sees a little traffic and I've had friends get on heavy weather and say they thought it was kinda loose.  Though it is pretty incredible to stand at the base and look up that overhung beast.  I got caught on the thrid pitch of lab wall during and aid ascent in torrential thunder and rain storm.  One of my most epic of epics retreating off of and getting back to the car.   ;)
Jon Howard

Offline Admin Al

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Re: the classics forgottten ?
« Reply #3 on: March 18, 2009, 08:47:21 AM »
western lady is a geat climb, tho short on gear. I have TR'ed it several times with no falls, but am just too much of a wimp to try it on lead. you can easily do Bombardment & then TR it. a couple of yars ago folks were doing the Arete again. I seem to remember someone saying, maybe Mark Synnott, that there was a missing hold now. too bad the bolts were chopped so long ago. what a spectacular location that is.

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Offline meclimber

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Re: the classics forgottten ?
« Reply #4 on: March 18, 2009, 09:23:39 AM »
Is western lady left of the 2nd pitch of ego trip?  Where is the arete?  Starfire is another good random one, first pitch sees alot of traffic, I often see chalk up to the first bolt on the second pitch and not that much afterward, the finger crack up higher is great.  Especially when accessed from three birches!
Jon Howard

Offline strandman

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Re: the classics forgottten ?
« Reply #5 on: March 18, 2009, 09:24:22 AM »
Sam's is on the agenda for this year.  A buddy did the british last year and had a great time, kinda opened ours eyes to a different type of climbing.
Good list john, lights in the forest is great, my partner and I got our butts handed to us on the 4th 'arch' pitch.  The chimney pitch is one of the best on the cliff.  We've also done about 2/3rds of forest of fanghorn but backed off due to loose scary chimney/aid climbing.  Some of those others I've wanted to due but are a little out of reach for me now.  I think that night flyer sees a little traffic and I've had friends get on heavy weather and say they thought it was kinda loose.  Though it is pretty incredible to stand at the base and look up that overhung beast.  I got caught on the thrid pitch of lab wall during and aid ascent in torrential thunder and rain storm.  One of my most epic of epics retreating off of and getting back to the car.   ;)
Ya the arch pitch is a kicker- Jimmie told me it was 10+- ten plus one. If you are in the Fanghorn area again, try Passing Thoughts-really good. We bailed to off The Lab and left behind a lot of gear, went back a month later and it was all there.

Offline strandman

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Re: the classics forgottten ?
« Reply #6 on: March 18, 2009, 09:29:49 AM »
Is western lady left of the 2nd pitch of ego trip?  Where is the arete?  Starfire is another good random one, first pitch sees alot of traffic, I often see chalk up to the first bolt on the second pitch and not that much afterward, the finger crack up higher is great.  Especially when accessed from three birches!
Western Lady is just right of Bombarment. A really good route. The Arete is left of the upper refuse ramp next to black crack. Starfire/yo yo is a good route that is poorly bolted. I think ALL the bolts are in the wrong places. If you are in this area TR Son of A Birch- directly below the birch clump atop p1 of 3 birches.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: the classics forgottten ?
« Reply #7 on: March 18, 2009, 09:45:03 AM »
I was told that BINTD Sams was a tourist rout that was regularly guided, now everyone is stacked up on WG and Moby.

Offline slink

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Re: the classics forgottten ?
« Reply #8 on: March 18, 2009, 09:52:01 AM »
Tradman;                                                                                                         SSS is a pretty good route.We did the first 5 pitches and then got rained off just before the long traverse. There was a little loose rock at the end of the third pitch ,I think, but overall a good alpine route.I want to do it again this year and finish.
 Jim
bailing is not failing!!!

Offline Admin Al

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Re: the classics forgottten ?
« Reply #9 on: March 18, 2009, 11:37:05 AM »
Starfire/yo yo is a good route that is poorly bolted. I think ALL the bolts are in the wrong places.

totally agreed...at least as far as P2 & above. P1 is just fine. I think it's just got two pins & good gear.

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Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: the classics forgottten ?
« Reply #10 on: March 18, 2009, 12:22:56 PM »
Just think, If you wern't in noth conway you could go up there a fix that 2nd pitch of starfire. As it stands now though you just get to bitch about it ;)

Offline Admin Al

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Re: the classics forgottten ?
« Reply #11 on: March 18, 2009, 12:25:10 PM »
Just think, If you wern't in noth conway you could go up there a fix that 2nd pitch of starfire. As it stands now though you just get to bitch about it ;)

LOL

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Offline meclimber

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Re: the classics forgottten ?
« Reply #12 on: March 18, 2009, 01:53:12 PM »
John, is passing thoughts near the white eye, to the right maybe.  I rapped that section of cliff to check it out one day and saw some cool stuff that needs cleaning. 
Jon Howard

Offline The other tomcat

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Re: the classics forgottten ?
« Reply #13 on: March 18, 2009, 07:14:15 PM »
My forgotten classic is Sleeping Beauty.And Bon Temps Roulee'.

John Bouchard counseled me to tie off the Birch Tree on Ventilator,now gone,and lead it in one pitch.It worked so well,I decided to take that approach on Starfire. I led the first pitch and continued up the second,tying off the sappy pine as high as I could.I got through all da business,sunk my finger into that finger crack and....out of rope.So I belayed there,brought 2nd to ledge and proceeded...lol.

Tidy'd up later.

Mr Strand....tell me about Lights in the Forest..
« Last Edit: March 18, 2009, 07:20:17 PM by The other tomcat »
Tom Stryker

Offline strandman

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Re: the classics forgottten ?
« Reply #14 on: March 18, 2009, 07:17:31 PM »
John, is passing thoughts near the white eye, to the right maybe.  I rapped that section of cliff to check it out one day and saw some cool stuff that needs cleaning. 
next to Repentance a sweet crack climb