Author Topic: The Best ???  (Read 1418 times)

Offline bag11s

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Re: The Best ???
« Reply #30 on: March 25, 2009, 08:09:42 pm »
Unicorn has way good climbing on every pitch, I think its the best route I've done on the cliff. Lost Souls is a lot of fun, highly recommend it. Children's Direct is on my list to try this year.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: The Best ???
« Reply #31 on: March 26, 2009, 08:59:45 am »
Grabbing the bolt works pretty good ;D

Offline SA

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Re: The Best ???
« Reply #32 on: March 27, 2009, 07:39:00 pm »
The last pitch of Childrens Crusade is really different and pretty wild.Alot of weird stemming. Did it with Bouchard many years ago. I'm way too stiff to ever do those moves again. Old age sucks!

Offline strandman

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Re: The Best ???
« Reply #33 on: March 27, 2009, 08:21:15 pm »
The last pitch of Childrens Crusade is really different and pretty wild.Alot of weird stemming. Did it with Bouchard many years ago. I'm way too stiff to ever do those moves again. Old age sucks!

Yo S no more Tower trips for me either. CC is way cool and its really good to do all the pitches- as usual Ed did a fine job. Good gear and fine situations.

john

Offline Jack2u

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Re: The Best ???
« Reply #34 on: March 28, 2009, 11:17:07 am »
Cathedral: Recombeast/Recompense

Rumney: Flyin' Hawaiian; Armed and Dangerous

Wild River: Big Red

Sundown: Eyeless

Offline Jack2u

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Re: The Best ???
« Reply #35 on: March 28, 2009, 11:20:13 am »
almost forgot-

Rough Boys @ Sundown

Offline strandman

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Re: The Best ???
« Reply #36 on: March 28, 2009, 06:12:06 pm »
Cathedral: Recombeast/Recompense

Rumney: Flyin' Hawaiian; Armed and Dangerous

Wild River: Big Red

Sundown: Eyeless

WOW, I almost forgot BIg Red, GREAT CLIMB !!! When Bob Parrot told me bout this route I couldn't believe it wasn't  much harder.  It's not super difficult but it is sustained !

Offline sirclimbalot

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Re: The Best ???
« Reply #37 on: March 28, 2009, 10:43:04 pm »
Wind jammer
Duet direct
SYZ
Lost souls
Diedre, That last pitch is super classic.

Offline strandman

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Re: The Best ???
« Reply #38 on: March 29, 2009, 10:29:13 am »
Windjammer !?- Some people have said that this route is really loose and dirty I can see from lack of ascents but loose ? Must have got BAD. I never saw a loose hold on it and I'm sure that it has had a few ascents. I just think an awesome climb ! I bet some if the fixed gear is mangy now , it was done 28 yers ago

john

Offline oldmansmith

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Re: The Best ???
« Reply #39 on: March 29, 2009, 10:34:07 am »
I did Windjammer many years ago, maybe it is better now.  My partner lead the 3rd? pitch, after I led the spiderweb filled crux chimney.  He pulled off and pitched several large rocks.  Just didn't seem three stars like Last Unicorn or the like.

Offline strandman

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Re: The Best ???
« Reply #40 on: March 29, 2009, 10:51:05 am »
Maybe it's getting like the rest of Painted Walls- really bad ! Not much good stuff at all. Except WWS of course.

Offline sirclimbalot

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Re: The Best ???
« Reply #41 on: March 29, 2009, 11:08:23 am »
I did the wind jammer last year and it was pretty solid. The first pitch was wet and it was after a week of no rain. so I guess if you don't like seepage you need to wait for a longer dry spell. Still the moves were very cool and the route is very pretty.
All the bolts have been replaced and the gear is great. You can backup the piton on the second pitch with modern gear.
See you there.
« Last Edit: March 29, 2009, 11:11:48 am by sirclimbalot »