Author Topic: The Worst ???  (Read 1365 times)

DLottmann

  • Guest
Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #15 on: March 26, 2009, 09:52:10 AM »
Agree that Funhouse is def. NOT a classic. Really isn't too good, it's mighty popular though, prolly because it's one of the few safe climbs at that grade on the cliff - no?

Safe? With a ledge every 15 feet it is probably one of the most dangerous climbs on the cliff. There is almost no where on the climb where it is safe to fall. I helped with a litter lower of a head injury from leader fall a year or two ago, and have heard of broken ankles as well. Most injuries on Cathedral occur on = or < 5.7.

Offline tradmanclimbz

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 4530
  • Nick Goldsmith
Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #16 on: March 26, 2009, 09:58:42 AM »
It is a thrutch that appeals to those of us who like to routefind amid a mass of nondescript options.  Personally I liked it, and have never rapped a route on Cannon.

You must top out!

Cool 8)

Offline strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 5829
Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #17 on: March 26, 2009, 10:21:01 AM »
Safe? With a ledge every 15 feet it is probably one of the most dangerous climbs on the cliff. There is almost no where on the climb where it is safe to fall. I helped with a litter lower of a head injury from leader fall a year or two ago, and have heard of broken ankles as well. Most injuries on Cathedral occur on = or < 5.7.
Right ! MOST injuries occur on route like this. Cause the climbing is not to hard and it has plenty of rests, people don't place that much gear. Think about the easier routes- whippin' off Thin Air would probably get you killed. Child's Play ? Standard ? Recompense start ?
be careful

Offline old_school

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 2509
  • "Climb Now, Work Later."
Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #18 on: March 26, 2009, 10:37:01 AM »
Hmmmmm....I love funhouse. I take a lot of intermediate climbers up there as the climbing is challenging enough (not a giveaway IMHO for a 5.7), the exposure is not bad, good moves, good pro and plenty of places to escape should the other climber start feeling wiggy. Interesting...

I think Black Crack and Final Gesture are pretty nasty!!! They were those climbs that when you get to the top you say to yourself "Ok...done that, no need to ever do it again"!

"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline alclimbup2

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 168
Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #19 on: March 26, 2009, 05:38:40 PM »
mr.strand, nice threads, a lot of chatter, totally agree fun house one series of ledges tothe other, best part is the 5.7 or 5.8 start, rest seemed easier than 5.7 to me couple times I've led it

you really dog standard, the history is cool and can see why done early such an obvious line, I like the first pitch traversing on that flake arch and the "tricky step"
but then just go up toe crack, think everyone would agree that is a mini classic, course an easy lead for 5.9 leaders, but clean, fun and exposed
and then I enjoyed the cave wall 5.6 crux, and think its great its kept run out as first led(you can see at least one chopped bolt hole), as I am so old school but it was nice and dry when I did it and i know its usually manky, the rest, yeah a tree gully

hey one last thing, see your references to base, i live in southerrn nh and run into, climb with him few times a year, he is a humble dude and always has beta on our southern nh climbing spots, your or someones post made me look at "dogs run free" picture in websters guide, reminds me of how old i am getting, i'll tease the hell out of him next time i see him  ,   

Offline bmbuffy

  • NEClimbs Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 41
Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #20 on: March 27, 2009, 12:08:44 AM »
retaliation, cathedral.

Offline old_school

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 2509
  • "Climb Now, Work Later."
Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #21 on: March 27, 2009, 08:52:11 AM »
retaliation, cathedral.

Ohhhh..."good call'!!!
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline JBro

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1375
  • Doing God's work
Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #22 on: March 27, 2009, 09:02:20 AM »
Quote
Right ! MOST injuries occur on route like this. Cause the climbing is not to hard and it has plenty of rests, people don't place that much gear.

Practically anywhere on the climb you can get gear. If somebody is inexperienced enough that they could possibly fall on Funhouse, then they should be putting more gear in. The fact that people don't do that and end up getting hurt doesn't make the climb unsafe, it means the climber is unsafe or inexperienced.

I think a lot of the reason the easiest routes see the most accidents is those are the routes the less experienced climbers are climbing.
Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

Offline strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 5829
Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #23 on: March 27, 2009, 09:28:55 AM »
Ohhhh..."good call'!!!

Oh ! I'm in on this one. I don't know why anyone likes this route.

Offline frik

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 640
  • I love YaBB 1G - SP1!
Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #24 on: March 27, 2009, 09:53:54 AM »
I'm thinking some guide should probably place some bolts on Funhouse to make it safe, just like thin air.
We could all use more safe and convenient climbs... Maybe install a short ladder for the scramble at the base too.
 

Offline strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 5829
Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #25 on: March 27, 2009, 10:11:31 AM »
I'm thinking some guide should probably place some bolts on Funhouse to make it safe, just like thin air.
We could all use more safe and convenient climbs... Maybe install a short ladder for the scramble at the base too.
 

And maybe also drill pockets up the Mordor Wall like was suggested around '86. I am not kidding! Safe or Convenient ? Lots of routes (most) are fairly safe. To go really retro maybe Funhouse should be pegged up like in the Gunks ? Then you could step on the bongs in the wide section AND we could all get rid of those bongs in our garages !

HA HA HA

Offline JBro

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1375
  • Doing God's work
Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #26 on: March 27, 2009, 10:16:35 AM »
On special occassions I still use my old bong....   ;D 
Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

Offline strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 5829
Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #27 on: March 27, 2009, 10:19:08 AM »
On special occassions I still use my old bong....   ;D 

Hopefully not on Funhouse !!!!- it's to dangerous. better stick to safe climbs like Peanut Gallery flake.

Offline Dave

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 531
  • I love YaBB 1G - SP1!
Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #28 on: March 27, 2009, 01:06:29 PM »
With a ledge every 15 feet Funhouse is the best climb on cathedral to carry a bong on! ;D

Offline krankonthis

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 123
Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #29 on: April 05, 2009, 01:06:59 PM »
who ever said the eliminate is crazy. that one the best routes on the cliff, especially if you cut out the aiding off the tree shanagans and add the direct start.  crazy.