Author Topic: The Worst ???  (Read 1363 times)

Offline JakeDatc

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Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #30 on: April 06, 2009, 12:10:24 AM »
Cathedral-   Three Birches P1    wet slimy  underclings and smears..  no thank you

Rumney-  Jug Line  at bonsai.  I've had convo's with DQ about the bolt placement on the upper part of this..  i must be doing something wrong :/ (i do applaud the original 5.9 sandbaggery though) and really like the beginning boulder problem.
          -  Constipation prize, Venus wall alcove.. they should have saved the bolts 
"I really don't know who act like if he have the true." -Champoing

Offline strandman

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Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #31 on: April 06, 2009, 09:34:02 AM »
Cathedral-   Three Birches P1    wet slimy  underclings and smears..  no thank you

Rumney-  Jug Line  at bonsai.  I've had convo's with DQ about the bolt placement on the upper part of this..  i must be doing something wrong :/ (i do applaud the original 5.9 sandbaggery though) and really like the beginning boulder problem.
          -  Constipation prize, Venus wall alcove.. they should have saved the bolts 

Classic ! A while back at Al Rubin's wedding in fact , I had a few cocktails and started talking to Sam Striebert about 3 Birches. (Sm f/a '65). He was horrified ! "I thought everyone liked the route". Now I really like Sam and he's a great guy, but ......

Offline OldEric

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Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #32 on: April 06, 2009, 10:02:24 AM »
Classic ! A while back at Al Rubin's wedding in fact , I had a few cocktails and started talking to Sam Striebert about 3 Birches. (Sm f/a '65). He was horrified ! "I thought everyone liked the route". Now I really like Sam and he's a great guy, but ......

Oh come on - its a classic.  If you can lead 3 Birches you can call yourself a real 5.8 climber.

Climbed with Rubin yesterday.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #33 on: April 06, 2009, 10:03:44 AM »
That 1st pitch of 3 Birches feels like someone smeared it with Vasaline... :P

Offline frik

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Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #34 on: April 06, 2009, 10:48:46 AM »
Ya i like Three Birches too - even the 1st pitch. With cams the pro is very good.
But I think if you can lead Three Birches then you can actually call yourself a real 5.9 leader!
You just need to wait for it to dry out.. sometimes a long wait though.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #35 on: April 06, 2009, 11:17:01 AM »
I have only done it maby 3 or 4 times but the 1st 12-15ft just feel gross,slimy and slippery. Like you put your hand on a dirty bathroom door....

Offline JakeDatc

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Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #36 on: April 06, 2009, 11:41:30 AM »
Haha..  i wasn't sure which way that would go..   i'm glad most seem to agree with me.  I was afraid i'd have to dodge a swinging #11 hex.
"I really don't know who act like if he have the true." -Champoing

Offline WanderlustMD

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Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #37 on: April 06, 2009, 01:25:37 PM »
Three Birches was my first climb on Cathedral, so I can't really think of it as bad. It is greasy, though.

Offline old_school

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Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #38 on: April 06, 2009, 01:51:02 PM »
Three Birches was always one of those climbs that was a right of passage. If you could climb that greasy, wet, slabby, mank...you could climb anything!!   ;D

Hell, that buldge at the top of the second pitch is no giveaway either...  :o
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #39 on: April 06, 2009, 01:56:41 PM »
Thing is though,  that start is slimy and gross even when its totaly dry  ???

Offline The other tomcat

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Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #40 on: April 06, 2009, 03:14:50 PM »
LOL....I like Three Birches,it's got a little of everything.For sure stay off it unless the weather is good and dry.I think the second pitch is great.I call that spot on the first pitch the "fixed wet spot".

I used to have one of those skinny spectra cordelettes,back when I carried a cordelette because,well,everyone else had one.So I'm bringing up my partner,and figured I'd want all my cams for the second pitch,so I placed three stoppers in the cracks above that skanky tree,set them,and linked them up with the 'lette as seen on TV.

Partner gets there,and in the handing back of the gear,leans inward,and that little stiff cordelette pushes everything right outta the crack and the whole anchor drops like custard sliding out of a cup.

Hartrich tells me there's been some spectacular whippers off the P2 bulge.I can imagine,I always continue up over that little slab above,but once it was covered in pine needles and that green pine slime....
Tom Stryker

Offline JakeDatc

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Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #41 on: April 06, 2009, 05:31:31 PM »
yea that bulge is definitely interesting and i was not sad that i was on the dull end.  Cursing the whole time that i was carrying all this gear that my friend had placed  going "wtf.. i'm a sport climber for a reason. i don't need to be weight down by anything but my chalk bag!"

slab was definitely covered in something.. pine needles.. dots of sap.. i forget exactly..  was a few years ago.

Is it bad that i think the 2nd pitch of The Book is way easier? lol
"I really don't know who act like if he have the true." -Champoing

Offline strandman

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Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #42 on: April 06, 2009, 09:02:14 PM »
Oh come on - its a classic.  If you can lead 3 Birches you can call yourself a real 5.8 climber.

Climbed with Rubin yesterday.

Al may have had the same shoes as Sam. . What were they- clodhoppers. Ha Ha Ha.

Offline Jeff

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Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #43 on: April 06, 2009, 10:46:22 PM »
3 Birches 1st pitch is a classic ( I agree with those who think it's 5.9, though,especially if it has rained within the week); for grease and slime try the lower Refuse pitch leading to the tree ledge---talk about a dirty thrutch!! I last did it on a hot humid July day in the mid 1990's  and "last" is the key word in that phrase--never again!

Offline Admin Al

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Re: The Worst ???
« Reply #44 on: April 06, 2009, 10:52:40 PM »
I really like P2 of 3 Birches. I even do it as an aternate to the upper pitches of Fun House. the bulge is well protected at your feet with 2 small cams. once you now where the solution pocket is on the left over the bulge it's no problem. that said I only led the upper slab once. you come off of that & it's not going to be pretty. kind of like if you fell off the starting slab on Bombardment.  :P  3 Birches was also my first climb on Cathedral. I was climbing a lot with this wacky guy named John Gonoza from Charlestown who I met through someone else from Boston and he took me up it. we did the whole thing, including the slab. he had a few cams and a lot of hexes and stoppers. he was a very quirky guy, but nice and actually a good climber. I learned a lot from him. we did many routes at Birch Hill, Rose Ledge, Cannon & Whitehorse together. I think that this was all in the late 80's.

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