Author Topic: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar  (Read 3743 times)

Offline perswig

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 847
Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
« Reply #45 on: August 03, 2010, 07:16:34 AM »

Pulling crux on Oscar the Grouch (?)


Beautiful climbing up high


Rotated for awesomeness  ;D


Troy coming up Randy's Super Fine


Great flake laybacking
If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

Offline tradchick

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 176
  • Conformity breeds mediocrity
Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
« Reply #46 on: August 03, 2010, 08:02:48 AM »

I'll add my accolades to those developing the routes.  We did five, in 6 pitches, and thought all were high-quality and true-to-stout for their ratings.  With the exception of the right-hand unnamed .9, which eases a bit up top, all routes made you pay attention from the high-ball starts right to the end.

We heard Tradchick singing her way up one of the .9s (whoohoo, you two)

I agree, almost every route there is stellar!  Nice job leading all those routes Dale and good to see Troy and you.  Very kind of you, it was more like whining my way up.  ;)

Offline dpen

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 205
Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
« Reply #47 on: August 04, 2010, 10:30:51 PM »
Nice pics Dale!

You picked a great day.

Offline smartpig

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 442
  • There is only one kind of magic and this is ‘doing
    • Valhalla Publishing
Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
« Reply #48 on: October 12, 2010, 10:54:40 PM »
Someone put in a nice 5.7 second pitch to Perez Highway, 5.8. From P.H. belay, diagonal right on vegetation to the base of a six bolted rib (plus a 1" and 2" cam).  Climb 130' trending left to the two-bolt anchor at the top of Broken Clown (5.6).  this pitch lies between Broken Clown and the upper portion of Bucking Bronco Arete.  This pitch has had a piece of red flagging tape on it since May. I spotted this route while Sykes and I put up girdle traverse of Oscar (see bottom of page two/top of page three)  It looked too fun not to climb it, so I did. The route climbed perfectly, with judicious scrubbing, and a dug out gear placement within the last 20'.  My conclusion is that the FA party rappelled down Charismatic Mime and forgot to remove their project marker.  So, who done it?  I trundled some precarious large rocks that were in the way of the last ten feet. 

Alternatively, you can climb in one 60m pitch, linking Perez Highway and the upper half of Broken Clown (two bolts plus trad gear).

Two rappels with a single rope: diagonal left to the first pitch anchor of Charismatic Mime, 5.8, and then to the ground.  You can not reach the belay on Perez Highway with a single rope.
« Last Edit: October 12, 2010, 11:07:30 PM by smartpig »
Jamie Cunningham
Franconia, NH

Jamie Cunningham Photography: http://www.jamiecunninghamphoto.com

The Notches guidebook Facebook page ("like" it!):
https://www.facebook.com/groups/valhallapublishing/

Offline smartpig

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 442
  • There is only one kind of magic and this is ‘doing
    • Valhalla Publishing
Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
« Reply #49 on: October 13, 2010, 10:56:33 AM »
P.S.
From this 5.7 pitch (pitch 2 of Perez Highway) it would be possible to traverse right and finish on the top end of Bucking Bronco Arete for one rope stretching romp.

Al: since you climb with the Perez could you ask them about this climb: the date it was done and if they had given it a name?  Perez Highway is a name Jon and  I conjured up I believe.  If they want a different name in the book, we would like to have it right.  In my opinion, I like Perez Highway, as it honors their adventurous spirit and Contributions to White Mountain climbing.
Jamie Cunningham
Franconia, NH

Jamie Cunningham Photography: http://www.jamiecunninghamphoto.com

The Notches guidebook Facebook page ("like" it!):
https://www.facebook.com/groups/valhallapublishing/

Offline Jeff

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 811
  • I love YaBB 1 Gold!
Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
« Reply #50 on: October 13, 2010, 12:30:55 PM »
Jamie- I was at Mt. Oscar the day that Joe and Judy put in the 2nd pitch bolts on their climb ( Aug. 20, 2009); Joe cleared a number of blocks off while he was drilling on rappel. I led the 2nd pitch with Anne Parmenter on 5/30/10, noting the red tape on the first bolt, but knowing that Joe had already led it after putting in the bolts; I moved some dangerous blocks out of the way of my ropes but couldn't trundle because my belayer (Anne) was directly in the line of fire. With the extra trundling you've done, I imagine the route is much more sanitized (read safer) and that's a good thing! Some of those blocks were big enough to make an impression on you and ruin your day :P.

Offline smartpig

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 442
  • There is only one kind of magic and this is ‘doing
    • Valhalla Publishing
Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
« Reply #51 on: October 13, 2010, 01:27:02 PM »
Why the red tape? To keep people off until those blocks could be dropped?  Those blocks were definite wrecking balls!  All gone. Safe passage and good climbing.  Thanks for the background history- now to hear from Judy and Joe.
« Last Edit: October 13, 2010, 01:31:58 PM by smartpig »
Jamie Cunningham
Franconia, NH

Jamie Cunningham Photography: http://www.jamiecunninghamphoto.com

The Notches guidebook Facebook page ("like" it!):
https://www.facebook.com/groups/valhallapublishing/

Offline epoch

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 230
  • jay a.
Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
« Reply #52 on: October 13, 2010, 02:36:03 PM »
Red Tape = Bureaucratic method of claiming the FA as the developer of the route. You put the effort into cleaning and bolting the route (read your time and $$) so therefore a red tag is there to dissuade others from claiming the FA. Otherwise, red tape could mean that the route is not completely outfitted or cleaned to the FA's liking yet.
« Last Edit: October 13, 2010, 02:38:18 PM by epoch »

Offline strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 4713
Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
« Reply #53 on: October 13, 2010, 09:30:51 PM »
Just to be an asshole- No gear in those flakes ? :o

Go ahead, fire away

Offline smartpig

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 442
  • There is only one kind of magic and this is ‘doing
    • Valhalla Publishing
Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
« Reply #54 on: October 14, 2010, 12:12:27 AM »
John: As the Rock Man said in the Land of Point, "you see what you want to see, and hear what you want to hear. Dig?"
Jamie Cunningham
Franconia, NH

Jamie Cunningham Photography: http://www.jamiecunninghamphoto.com

The Notches guidebook Facebook page ("like" it!):
https://www.facebook.com/groups/valhallapublishing/

Offline smartpig

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 442
  • There is only one kind of magic and this is ‘doing
    • Valhalla Publishing
Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
« Reply #55 on: October 14, 2010, 12:24:02 AM »
« Last Edit: October 14, 2010, 12:28:14 AM by smartpig »
Jamie Cunningham
Franconia, NH

Jamie Cunningham Photography: http://www.jamiecunninghamphoto.com

The Notches guidebook Facebook page ("like" it!):
https://www.facebook.com/groups/valhallapublishing/

Offline perswig

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 847
Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
« Reply #56 on: October 14, 2010, 07:01:42 AM »
Just to be an asshole- No gear in those flakes ?

Hey, if you're talking the pics of Randy's SuperFine, I got gear in those flakes!  But am I gonna clip the bolts there as well?  You betcha!  Nothing about the routes John and Jamie put up there feels overbolted, but that's a whole nother arguement you can have with someone else. 

And yes, I'm a light-weight scairdycat at this climbing thing.  Sue me ;).
Dale
If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

Offline Admin Al

  • NEClimbs Administrator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 7181
  • Climb 'till your forearms turn to jelly!
    • NEClimbs
Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
« Reply #57 on: October 15, 2010, 06:54:18 PM »
Al: since you climb with the Perez could you ask them about this climb: the date it was done and if they had given it a name?  Perez Highway is a name Jon and  I conjured up I believe.  If they want a different name in the book, we would like to have it right.  In my opinion, I like Perez Highway, as it honors their adventurous spirit and Contributions to White Mountain climbing.

Jamie - I asked them & here is what they said:

Tell Jamie that we really appreciate the thought about our adventurous spirits, but we would like to leave the name as "Highway." Some people already know it by this name. This is also the name on neclimbs.com.
Al Hospers
____________________________________
my music
 https://www.facebook.com/BlackMountainRamblers

web hosting, design and software programming:
 http://www.cambersoft.com

Offline strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 4713
Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
« Reply #58 on: October 15, 2010, 08:32:14 PM »
Hey, if you're talking the pics of Randy's SuperFine, I got gear in those flakes!  But am I gonna clip the bolts there as well?  You betcha!  Nothing about the routes John and Jamie put up there feels overbolted, but that's a whole nother arguement you can have with someone else. 

And yes, I'm a light-weight scairdycat at this climbing thing.  Sue me ;).
Dale
[/quoteOh I'm just shittin' ya  ;) Looks like great climbing

Offline smartpig

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 442
  • There is only one kind of magic and this is ‘doing
    • Valhalla Publishing
Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
« Reply #59 on: October 15, 2010, 09:14:16 PM »
"Highway" it is!  Nice two pitch route.
Jamie Cunningham
Franconia, NH

Jamie Cunningham Photography: http://www.jamiecunninghamphoto.com

The Notches guidebook Facebook page ("like" it!):
https://www.facebook.com/groups/valhallapublishing/