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Author Topic: Sugarloaf  (Read 6363 times)

Offline gags

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Sugarloaf
« on: June 03, 2009, 06:51:26 pm »
Anyone have any route information for the Sugarloaf cliff?  I have heard of a long 5.6 route I'm interested in.

-gags
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Offline punxnotdead

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Re: Sugarloaf
« Reply #1 on: June 03, 2009, 07:24:35 pm »
Chris,  There are many good routes up there!   The 6 you may be referring to is in the center of the cliff.  There is a semi bolted green slab that leads up to an anchor then a very sharp 5.6 crack that leads to the top.  There are also alot of other climbs there that are more than worth it to jump on.  I guarantee that you will be able to get up anything you find.  I really like the 5.9? about 50 feet to the left of the 5.6 I mentioned.  There are also some fantastic 5.7's to the right that are also awesome!!!  Dont worry about Paul Cormiers home made bolt hangers, I havent tested them, but they look solid!!!!

Have a great time on your adventure!!!! 

Btw, It is easier to hike down to the base of the cliff if you follow an easy groove down and to the right/middle of the top of the cliff (looking out).

Best,

Bill Keiler
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Offline gags

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Re: Sugarloaf
« Reply #2 on: June 05, 2009, 07:43:09 am »
Bill - are you saying I should hike to the top of the cliff and then scramble down a groove to the base?

-gags
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Offline perswig

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Re: Sugarloaf
« Reply #3 on: June 05, 2009, 12:36:34 pm »
Quote from: gags on June 05, 2009, 07:43:09 am
Bill - are you saying I should hike to the top of the cliff and then scramble down a groove to the base?

-gags

Yeah, inquiring minds would like to know, please.
Dale


Edit - thanks to mopowers for the directions.
« Last Edit: June 05, 2009, 05:29:16 pm by perswig »
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Offline mopowers

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Re: Sugarloaf
« Reply #4 on: June 05, 2009, 01:13:42 pm »
 The best way to get to the cliff is to take the Middle Sugarloaf hiking trail to the top then hike down and around to the base. It has been a long time since i have been there but i remember a easy hike around on both sides of the cliff. There are no rappel anchors or trees at the top so each time you top out you need to hike back down to the base, it only takes a few minutes. I remember hiking around the left side (looking out) more often but i am sure Bill knows the sweet spot. Paul Cormier's route with the homemade hangers is the route i remember enjoying the most. The rock there is very abrasive but great quality, much like J Tree granite. The oldest Webster guide covers Sugarloaf.
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Offline meclimber

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Re: Sugarloaf
« Reply #5 on: June 05, 2009, 01:51:28 pm »
Is sugarloaf the cliff that has a notorius OW.  I've wanted to go there and get on that route.  I wish the 2 webster books were one, then I would have bathroom reading for life. ;D
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Jon Howard

Offline strandman

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Re: Sugarloaf
« Reply #6 on: June 05, 2009, 07:41:26 pm »
Quote from: meclimber on June 05, 2009, 01:51:28 pm
Is sugarloaf the cliff that has a notorius OW.  I've wanted to go there and get on that route.  I wish the 2 webster books were one, then I would have bathroom reading for life. ;D

you want notoriuos OW ? I got some for ya--

Original free Beast 11- MY ASS

Crack between Worlds- 11, yet unrepeated to my knowledge, Cathedral

Slam Dance-10+++++

Jimmy's Route at Texaco- 11-  after a month in Veedawoo , I got 20'

Madera- Damp-9+ Unrepeated ???
« Last Edit: June 05, 2009, 10:44:21 pm by Admin Al »
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Offline meclimber

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Re: Sugarloaf
« Reply #7 on: June 06, 2009, 11:35:32 am »
The beast looks over the top, I saw a couple of local strong guys on it and not-so-much 11- was the consensus that I got.  I know that crack between worlds (the climb to the right of bongo?) has at least one repeat, tim kemple.  Has madera-damp never been repeated?  Woodchuck is one of my favorite cliffs and I've often stood at the base and comtemplated how the route is 5.9.  John, is the texaco route a tight corner with a square cut roof?   Maybe 4"-5"?
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Jon Howard

Offline punxnotdead

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Re: Sugarloaf
« Reply #8 on: June 06, 2009, 02:26:02 pm »
Chris/Dale,

Yup, looking out from the top of the cliff, there is an easy groove on the right that will take you down to the base.

Enjoy!

Bill

ps, if you guys want me to show you around I can, just let me know ahead of time.
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Offline strandman

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Re: Sugarloaf
« Reply #9 on: June 06, 2009, 05:04:27 pm »
Quote from: meclimber on June 06, 2009, 11:35:32 am
The beast looks over the top, I saw a couple of local strong guys on it and not-so-much 11- was the consensus that I got.  I know that crack between worlds (the climb to the right of bongo?) has at least one repeat, tim kemple.  Has madera-damp never been repeated?  Woodchuck is one of my favorite cliffs and I've often stood at the base and comtemplated how the route is 5.9.  John, is the texaco route a tight corner with a square cut roof?   Maybe 4"-5"?
Ya the Texaco route is about 4-5", James worked it pretty hard. I once saw Bob Rotert REALLY having a hard time on the Beast, so much for my chances. Grats to Tim, I tried for 3 days on CBW on still didn't do it. Kurt said something about a"blind #3 hex" placement !
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Offline slink

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Re: Sugarloaf
« Reply #10 on: June 06, 2009, 05:16:54 pm »
 I agree with Bill looking right and head down the groove is the best.I tried both ways and the better routes are on that side of the cliff.I have done 7 or 8 routes there in the past year or so, some in the Webster guide and some not.The 5.6 crack through the overlap is great and the direct start is really good.
 Jim
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Offline gags

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Re: Sugarloaf
« Reply #11 on: June 08, 2009, 05:00:25 pm »
Bill - I went out to Sugarloaf.  I got on a nice slab with 6 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor.  The second pitch followed a crack to a flake and finished with 20ft of slab climbing.  Both pitches felt 5.6/5.7.  I didn't go on from there not knowing where the route went or what route I was on.  I saw some other good looking routes.  Does the 5.9 you speak of go through a roof with a crack?  And is the 5.6 between that route and the route I did?

Overall, high quality rock, easy to access - I recommend Sugarloaf.

-gags
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Offline punxnotdead

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Re: Sugarloaf
« Reply #12 on: June 11, 2009, 07:32:13 pm »
Chris,

If you walked down the way I described.  The first bolted route (with normal hangers) is 5.9.  The first bolt on it is kind of high.  It goes up to a tree with slings.

The green slab that leads up to a crack through a roof is Bullet?  the slab is 5.7/8 the sharp crack through the roof is 5.6. 

I would be happy to go up there with you sometime just PM me.  I am free this weekend if interested.

Bill Keiler
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Offline Danielle

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Re: Sugarloaf
« Reply #13 on: June 22, 2009, 12:28:50 pm »
Hey guys , I am still kinda new around here, are you talking about the sugarloaf that sits just north of shell Pond or the ** ski resort Sugarloaf* . I am ;looking for climbing area in western maine ?
Danielle
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Offline Admin Al

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Re: Sugarloaf
« Reply #14 on: June 22, 2009, 05:00:29 pm »
the one off 302, northwest of Bretton Woods nearby to Mt. Oscar.

--al
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