In December 2001 I did a nice 2 pitch route that I think is worth doing (most of the climbs on Middle Sugarloaf are nice). Here's a description.
Drop down the right side gully (when looking out) and walk along the bottom of the cliff for a couple hundred feet til the cliff drops down further in the woods. The start is just left of the old route- Skyline Promenade-5.9, that follows a couple of long arches up and right. Look for two offset cracks 30' up.
Bad Dog 5.7 240'
1. Just before coming to the low point, step right onto the slab and climb up through two offset cracks (nice, 5.6) then continue up steep slab past a couple bolts to a natural thread anchor on a nice ledge. 5.7 100'
2. Climb up to a small right facing corner/arch (5.7), protect with small nuts, and head straight up past 3 or 4 bolts on beautiful rock to a sloping belay at some large blocks. Scramble over the blocks to the top. 5.7 140'
This is a really fun climb on perfect rock.
History: I worked on this climb over two days on a warm spell in Dec., 2001. The first day I spent cleaning out the cracks, then came back and bolted it on lead the next day. On the hike in on day two, I was bitten on one arm by a huge dog that was hiking with two women. It was running off its leash and apparently feeling pretty protective. We all hiked back our cars where one of the women- Paul Cormier's wife Michelle cleaned up my wound. It hurt like hell but it was such a nice day, I had to head back up to finish the climb. Dogs will be dogs, the women were very apologetic, and I didn't pursue it further. My big, dumb golden runs free on trails, too.
I'm hesitant to call this a FA, because the history is obscure and my feeling is that by now, most of the crags in the White Mountains have been criss crossed by anonymous climbers for decades. I'm pretty sure the cracks hadn't been climbed directly because they were packed with dirt, but the slab above- who knows. Maybe a FRA.
For those who haven't climbed there, it's a great backcountry crag with mostly exceptional rock and terrific views.