New problem in Monument Cove (Acadia National Park)?

[llamero]

Last summer, several people told me that there was some good bouldering down in Monument Cove, so I thought I'd go check it out.  My wife and I went down to the ledges on the right side of the cove (from the road), and right away I spotted a super fun V1 problem.  It was a moderately over-hanging traverse with everything from knee drops to hand jams to lay backs.  This V1 problem also can be extended for another 100' of traversing along the V0+ ledge.  My wife and I went down there to play throughout the summer, and returned today, but we've never seen any signs that anyone else boulders here (unlike the regularly used left side of the cove that is covered with chalk marks).  I was wondering if anyone else has been bouldering on the right side of the cove, and if these routes are known?  If not, I would highly recommend the V1 problem and traverse to any beginner climber in the area.

A video clip of me on the V1 problem: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bfzoAIs_3KQ

Watching the waves crash


The V1 problem traverses the crack from right to left, and then exits up the chimney.


A side view of the problem showing the moderate overhang.


Me giving a whole new meaning to sit-start


Playing on the first bit of the V1 problem


Continuing along the V0+ traverse








Me very happy that I was finally able to link up the V1 problem and the V0+ traverse (a little project of mine)


Melyssa wants to see me do at least a V5 before she's impressed 


A panorama of the traverse.  It starts with the V1 problem on the far right of the image, and continues all along the face to the far left of the image.

[DLottmann]

Nice photos, love Acadia... thx for the posting but this should be in New Routes perhaps?

[llamero]

I figured I ought to post it here first since I didn't want to be seen as the noob posting established problems as new routes .  I know Monument Cove is a popular bouldering area, but I haven't lived here long enough to know whether the right side of the cove has undiscovered routes, or whether everyone else would just rather play on the V2-V6 problems on the left side of the cove; hence the question mark in the subject.  Acadia has so many great bouldering areas, it's a wonder that none of the veterans have written up a guide book.

[bennybrew]

where do you park to get there? on the loop road or down at the otter cliff's lot?

[llamero]

The closest parking lot is the Gorham Mountain trailhead, however you can also park right on the park loop road depending on how much you trust the tourists.

[bennybrew]

The closest parking lot is the Gorham Mountain trailhead, however you can also park right on the park loop road depending on how much you trust the tourists.

i'll park in the gorham lot, then. thanks!