Author Topic: New "original" start to Moby Grape  (Read 2580 times)

oldmansmith

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Re: New "original" start to Moby Grape
« Reply #15 on: August 12, 2009, 08:56:24 PM »
I'm glad to hear that I am not the only one who thinks that Reppy's is hard on the feet.

My non-climbing college girlfriend in the 80's followed it with her feet on the slab on either side of the crack because her feet hurt. So much for it being a hard crack.

Buzzsaw

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Re: New "original" start to Moby Grape
« Reply #16 on: August 18, 2009, 07:53:49 AM »
You've never climbed Moby if you haven't done the original start. Syko

Offline SCUD

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Re: New "original" start to Moby Grape
« Reply #17 on: August 18, 2009, 08:04:19 AM »
" Agreed "
"Going to the mountains is going home." -John Muir

meclimber

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Re: New "original" start to Moby Grape
« Reply #18 on: August 18, 2009, 09:49:30 AM »
Oh man, now I'll never be ably to climb Moby. ;)

strandman

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Re: New "original" start to Moby Grape
« Reply #19 on: August 18, 2009, 10:54:54 AM »
You've never climbed Moby if you haven't done the original start. Syko
HAH ! Now the start of an overblown route is finally gone .

Offline abc

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Re: New "original" start to Moby Grape
« Reply #20 on: August 18, 2009, 01:37:08 PM »
Here's a picture.

chiloe

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Re: New "original" start to Moby Grape
« Reply #21 on: August 23, 2009, 01:16:50 PM »
Here's the same pitch in 1980, for comparison.  How much has the actual climbing changed?

I agree that it ain't Moby Grape if you started up Reppy's Crack.  The original pitch was the most varied and sustained on the route.

chiloe

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Re: New "original" start to Moby Grape
« Reply #22 on: August 23, 2009, 01:40:39 PM »
Looks like that big slab I'm standing on (in photo above) is what fell off.  At the time (1980), I doubt it sounded any more hollow than the rest of the route.

I do recall thinking, somewhere around the Triangle Roof, that I was climbing whole pitches on exfoliating plates, with a new route waiting to be born underneath.

DLottmann

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Re: New "original" start to Moby Grape
« Reply #23 on: August 23, 2009, 03:27:30 PM »
I do recall thinking, somewhere around the Triangle Roof, that I was climbing whole pitches on exfoliating plates, with a new route waiting to be born underneath.

Ya, the whole pitch following the Triangle Roof pitch feels like it is temporal...

Offline frik

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Re: New "original" start to Moby Grape
« Reply #24 on: August 24, 2009, 09:59:40 AM »
Ok, there are two distinct "recent" fockfalls one is just more recent than the other.  The first took out a flake and the handcrack running through it to the left of the main corner - just left of the first and third visible pieces of pro in chiloe's photo... his second visible piece is in the crack in the flake. That's the rockfall that occured a couple years ago. Before the advent of wide gear that crack provided the first chance for protecting the pitch.
The second rockfall is as chileo said and looks to be right at what used to be the crux of the pitch. That pitch used to be a great way of bypassing the hordes starting up Reppy's.


meclimber

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Re: New "original" start to Moby Grape
« Reply #25 on: August 24, 2009, 11:07:47 AM »
I'm still amazed looking at 29 years of growth on that tree!!!

Offline Jeff

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Re: New "original" start to Moby Grape
« Reply #26 on: August 24, 2009, 12:45:38 PM »
Ya, the whole pitch following the Triangle Roof pitch feels like it is temporal...

Temporal indeed; there are at least 8 climbs I've done on Cannon since the late 60's that have either disappeared or lost significant pitches over the past 35 years-- the cliff's an onion and it's peeling away-- makes me want to cry! -- Jeff  ( I guess it explains the talus slope though ;D)