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Author Topic: What goes through your mind when....  (Read 275 times)

tradmanclimbz

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Re: What goes through your mind when....
« Reply #15 on: November 20, 2003, 04:24:52 PM »

Maby my brain is just a bit slow from getting hit in the head all those years 8)
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YoYo

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Re: What goes through your mind when....
« Reply #16 on: November 21, 2003, 08:29:05 AM »

Don't mess with Tradman !
The same thing that goes through my shorts when I take a lead fall would go trough your mind if you ticked him off!   :-/
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: What goes through your mind when....
« Reply #17 on: November 21, 2003, 08:35:49 AM »

No big deal. I gave up all that chop suey crapola 4.5 years ago to focus on my climbing and music. Also haven't seriously played with guns since 1992.  Probobly couldn't fight or shoot my way out of a wet paper bag these days 8)
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Admin Al

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Re: What goes through your mind when....
« Reply #18 on: November 21, 2003, 08:55:00 AM »

climbing & music aye? interesting. i played for over 20 years & am just getting back into it now. maybe I'll have a big party in the spring & set up instruments on the back deck so everyone could climb all day & then play music & eat bbq & drink beer all nite. <grin>

al
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Al Hospers
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LizzyBee

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Re: What goes through your mind when....
« Reply #19 on: November 21, 2003, 10:57:45 AM »

Actually it's 32 ft/sec/sec ;D

Lizz
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: What goes through your mind when....
« Reply #20 on: November 21, 2003, 02:25:18 PM »

That would be a blast. the only thing is as I get older my hands don't hold up so well. It seems that climbing dosent mix with guitar any better than karate did ???  last year i made the mistake of  playing a gig after my first real ice lead of the season :o  I was still cold and my hands kept cramping up. Pretty lousy experience. I can usualy jam ok after the post rockclimbing beers but it is kind of funny when your knuckels are bleeding, your tendonitis is screaming, and and you peeled a fingernail half off desperatly going for that thin finger crack at the end of the runout ;D
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Re: What goes through your mind when....
« Reply #21 on: November 21, 2003, 05:17:03 PM »

I agree with all of the above, however.. as mainly a bass player I love the fact that my calluses are generally the best in rock season. <grin> I'm definitely gonna do that next spring.

Al
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: What goes through your mind when....
« Reply #22 on: November 22, 2003, 05:53:47 AM »

Looking forward to it. Maby post a sign at the party. NO TALKING ABOUT BOLTS ;D
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Tim

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Re: What goes through your mind when....
« Reply #23 on: November 25, 2003, 04:24:29 PM »

I don't want to brag or anything, but i've taken thousands of feet of leader-falls over the past 10 years.  Tons of air-time on sport and trad, some on mixed routes, even some on high-ball boulders, but never on a screw.  I've experienced a few 40+ footers with the biggest being around 60 ft. (i didn't get out the tape measure)  The only injury i've recieved was a couple broken bones in my foot.  I came in a bit funny, thats it.  
Now i'm not saying that you should go out and whip away, but if you whip it doesn't mean you're gonna die.  And I've found that that is the key, RELAX! YOU'RE PROBABLY NOT GOING TO GET HURT!
Here is a couple of pointers;
1. if you fight the fall until you are already airborn, you've just managed set yourself up for a bad one.
2. Don't push off too hard (you'll swing back in too fast) and don't just go straight down (cuz' the rock will stop you before the rope does).  Once you start getting gripped, just glance down and get a quick survey of what's below you.  i.e. ledges, corners, your last piece, etc.
3. It helps if you know how to fall.  (Years of skating and biking on a half-pipe, snowboarding, mountainbiking and doing flips off of rope swings and bridges as a teen helped me with that).  So if you were a fat kid who's only falls were while standing on a stool to reach the cookie jar, don't whip more than 3 feet!
4. Remember!  Ropes don't fail, nor do carabiners or stoppers or Cams or bolts or belay devices.  If you have done everything correctly, everything will work correctly.  You have to have faith in your climbing ability and your ability to set up a system that won't fail you.

So what goes through my head...  I'm already thinking about pulling my rope and doing it again, because i'm confident that i'll be okay and back on the route within minutes.

Tim
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bumpkin

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Re: What goes through your mind when....
« Reply #24 on: November 26, 2003, 02:26:00 PM »

Quote
4. Remember!  Ropes don't fail, nor do carabiners or stoppers or Cams or bolts or belay devices.  


Hmm... my brother broke a carabiner on his first lead fall. Also cracked his head (this was in '88 so no helmets of course). I hear about breaking carabiners all the time....

But in general, I agree with your thoughts Tim. I have a partner who can crank very, very hard on boulders but falls into pieces when given a rack and a 5.7 crack. He's never fallen and refuses to. So when he climbs, in his mind he's free solo-ing. If he could just fix that, he'd be trad climbing hard 11/easy 12....
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Tim

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Re: What goes through your mind when....
« Reply #25 on: November 27, 2003, 07:57:44 AM »

Yes!  Gear does break on occasion, but it is almost always pilot error!  Read the stats in the back of Accidents in N.A. Mountaineering.  Of all the reported accidents, there is almost no gear failures attributed to accidents and injuries.  
I regret that your brother was injured and don't want to bag on him in any way.  But remember, this was his first  leader-fall and he (probably) did something wrong. Biners break because they are loaded over an edge, or the gate wasn't closed properly (we all have biners with sticky gates).  It is not unlikely that a newer leader will rip gear, break stuff, and flip upside down, and all that carnage, but I am confident in the assumption that it wasn't the biner that failed him, he most likely failed it.  Something else that can break a biner is a severe fall factor (Falling twice -or close to twice the distance of the rope that is out)
A perfect example.  And one that will get someone soon if it hasnt' already is the pin placements on Still in Siagon.   I see people clipping directly into them all the time.  They should be slung with a runner. Clipping directly will break a biner.
Ropes do break on occasion too.  But they are always cut by edges and flakes.
All of the gear that we use while climbing is made to a standard that WILL NOT BREAK, especially when it's used correctly.  
The bottom line.
If you think your gear is going to break, you will never be able to climb above your last piece.  So do what I have done, convince that little voice in your head that it won't break.  And getting back to the original question...  If, while you're falling, you think that you're going to die, you will get yourself hurt.  
Climb smart!  Do everything right while you are climbing, and everything will work right while you're falling.
tim
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: What goes through your mind when....
« Reply #26 on: November 28, 2003, 05:05:02 PM »

 8) Agree with most of what tim is saying. I have logged with old booty biners and retired rope w/ a 4wd and that is some pretty strong stuff. gear does rip out though. You can call it piolet error if you want but if you are doing a climb that only offers flared thin gear you can be an expert and still have gear rip. When gear rips often you do lose control of your fall and go upside down.  Like I mentioned earlier. 95 % of the time falling is no big deal. A nice soft floater. The problem is that in that other 5% or 2% or whatever it is, somthing can and will go wrong which keeps it exciteing ;D If it didn't have an element of risk you might just as well play golf 8)
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15mmwench

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Re: What goes through your mind when....
« Reply #27 on: November 28, 2003, 05:58:04 PM »

Lets not get all warm and fuzzy about falling. Remember not all falls result in injury but all* injuries result from falling.


*Yeah the odd falling object accounts for some small percentage.
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