Author Topic: A very educational day  (Read 2295 times)

Offline Admin Al

  • NEClimbs Administrator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 8139
  • Climb 'till your forearms turn to jelly!
    • NEClimbs
Re: A very educational day
« Reply #15 on: November 13, 2009, 09:02:18 AM »
what he said ^^
Al Hospers
my music

Offline JBro

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1383
  • Doing God's work
Re: A very educational day
« Reply #16 on: November 13, 2009, 09:18:46 AM »
I tried aid climbing once. It took me 3 hours to climb about 40 feet...  :P
Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck


  • Guest
Re: A very educational day
« Reply #17 on: November 13, 2009, 10:14:08 AM »
Python makes a good point, I got into traditional climbing from aid climbing.  It really lets you learn what placements work and that crap gear will sometimes hold falls!


  • Guest
Re: A very educational day
« Reply #18 on: November 13, 2009, 05:33:01 PM »
Anyway, I know I f***ed up falling on my first piece in the first place, and that's why I bothered to post about it, to get some feedback from the community to make sure I'd learned what I needed to learn from my mistake. 

Oh, my apology then.  I thought you *didn't* realize that falling on the first piece was particularly bad.  I read your story several times to see if I'd missed it, but I'm pretty sure it just wasn't there.

You'd have to be a pretty brain-damaged climber to not know that even when everything is done perfectly there is still a chance for a fatal fall (the rope cutting incident at the Gunks this summer would be a great example). 

Hmm... now I'm starting to think that my point still isn't clear.  I'm not saying "any time you fall, something bad could happen".  What I'm saying is that: 1 - falling on your first piece is always a bad idea; 2 - falling on easy routes is often bad because they're not steep (though that's not an issue where you fell); and 3 - falling when you're a new leader is more risky because you don't know what you don't know, and are more likely to have mis-assesed a risk.

Again, I'm *not* saying that even if you do everything perfectly, you could still get the chop.  That may be the case (especially in alpine, but cragging, too) - but my points are much more actionable.  In other words, stuff that can actually inform your choices.

Personally, I'm eternally grateful to Danielle and Bob who climbed with me this summer, and took the time to give constructive feedback on all my pro placements, let me know when I should back up a placement, and had the patience to let me work my way through various problems rather than just beta chomping to speed things up.  The climbing community definitely needs more mentors like these two people.

That's always nice to hear.  I'm eternally grateful to the people who climbed with me when I was starting out, too!