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Author Topic: Extending your rappel device off your belay loop?  (Read 1061 times)

DLottmann

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Extending your rappel device off your belay loop?
« on: October 02, 2009, 11:27:28 PM »

Feel free to add how you do.

1) I don't bother with single pitch rappelling...

2) Multi-pitch I either use a single sling girth-hitched through leg loops and harness (sometimes just belay loop in winter) or a double length with overhand half way for a "cow-tail" for anchoring...

I carry all dyneema except for my extension sling...
« Last Edit: October 02, 2009, 11:29:28 PM by DMan »
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bluesnpolitics

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Re: Extending your rappel device off your belay loop?
« Reply #1 on: October 03, 2009, 12:51:59 AM »

I have a metolius P.A.S. At first I thought it was kind of a silly piece of gear, but it really makes a great "chicken sling". It's effectively the same as the "cow-tail", but I have 6 points to clip. I also work on a high ropes course doing some maintenance and it is great for clipping tools and gear that can't be dropped.
It's not AWESOME AMAZING LIFE-CHANGING!!!!!, but it is a lot less gimicky than I originally thought.
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Extending your rappel device off your belay loop?
« Reply #2 on: October 03, 2009, 07:55:15 AM »

If I had a fatter sling to do that with I might but I also feel that the extended rap device thing  puts the device right in front of your face and increases the chance of sucking in helmet strap, hair (not a problem for me) jacket hood, etc?
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Admin Al

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Re: Extending your rappel device off your belay loop?
« Reply #3 on: October 03, 2009, 09:43:58 AM »

IMO the extra control I get from the extension negates any other possible annoyances. it's something I do all the time now. I am often surprised by the number of climbers I talk with who have never even heard of this technique.

--al
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ridgerunner

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Re: Extending your rappel device off your belay loop?
« Reply #4 on: October 03, 2009, 09:48:39 AM »

I tie my Prussik (short) on the belay loop and put the ATC above on my BD looped belay sling. The Prussik comes in handy once in a while to undo klusterf?&cks.
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JBrochu

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Re: Extending your rappel device off your belay loop?
« Reply #5 on: October 03, 2009, 10:13:30 AM »

I have a metolius P.A.S. At first I thought it was kind of a silly piece of gear, but it really makes a great "chicken sling". It's effectively the same as the "cow-tail", but I have 6 points to clip. I also work on a high ropes course doing some maintenance and it is great for clipping tools and gear that can't be dropped.
It's not AWESOME AMAZING LIFE-CHANGING!!!!!, but it is a lot less gimicky than I originally thought.

I use the P.A.S. too.

And what's funny is it really makes some of my partners nervous. They think instead of having one sewn point that can fail now I have six.
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Flotsam

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Re: Extending your rappel device off your belay loop?
« Reply #6 on: October 03, 2009, 11:00:51 AM »

Why carry specialized gear for what any sling can do?  If dyneema sling is good enough for belays and clipping gear why is it no good for extending off your harness?

I own both POSs and lazy chains but I have only used it a few times.  I found they have limited usefulness, especially on multipitch climbs.  For example people do not want to clip into the belay with them for some reason or another... as a result you end up fairly specialized gear that really does the same thing as any old sling you are already carrying.
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DLottmann

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Re: Extending your rappel device off your belay loop?
« Reply #7 on: October 03, 2009, 12:45:38 PM »

Why carry specialized gear for what any sling can do?  If dyneema sling is good enough for belays and clipping gear why is it no good for extending off your harness?

I own both POSs and lazy chains but I have only used it a few times.  I found they have limited usefulness, especially on multipitch climbs.  For example people do not want to clip into the belay with them for some reason or another... as a result you end up fairly specialized gear that really does the same thing as any old sling you are already carrying.

I second that... the PAS might be good for a sport climber to quickly anchor to two bolts before rigging to lower, but even then if you know how to pass a bight you can rig to lower just as quickly and more safetly...

The PAS takes time to "rack" neatly so it doesn't get caught up on other gear...
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Extending your rappel device off your belay loop?
« Reply #8 on: October 03, 2009, 02:13:48 PM »

Pas looks too bulky and clustery to me....
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JBrochu

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Re: Extending your rappel device off your belay loop?
« Reply #9 on: October 03, 2009, 07:35:41 PM »

I don't rack the PAS though. I keep it girth hitched on my harness and just wrap it around my waist, taking care to make sure it's under any gear clipped to gear loops, then clip it back to my belay loop.
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slink

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Re: Extending your rappel device off your belay loop?
« Reply #10 on: October 03, 2009, 09:19:04 PM »

I use the P.A.S. and just clip all of the loops together and hook it to a leg loop.Out of the way but always ready.It works great at bolted belays on multi pitch routes.I can break the anchor down while waitng to be put on belay.
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MAmedic

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Re: Extending your rappel device off your belay loop?
« Reply #11 on: October 04, 2009, 12:42:44 AM »

havent tried the PAS (im a cheep bastard) but I do always use a 24" sling tied in half.  I lets me clip the anchor and have a 10-12 inch extension on my rap device.  I do make a point of changing the sling whenever it shows wear and tear and I only use nylon for this purpose.  Dynema with its low melting point makes me nervous.
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sarahw

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Re: Extending your rappel device off your belay loop?
« Reply #12 on: October 05, 2009, 04:05:53 PM »

Extending the belay device makes getting your hair caught less likely if you have long hair.  When I rappel off my belay loop, the ATC is at my chest, right where my pony tail swings over my shoulder - I got it caught once.  Now I extend the rappel so the ATC is about eye level.  Also, when you extend, I think your body is further from the device, since you tend to lean back slightly as you rappel.

I have a PAS, but when I retire it, I won't get another one.  Now that I know the frost knot, I will tie the same thing as the PAS out of webbing, but use the frost knot to make the end loop, that way I won't have an extra knot in there to close the webbing.  I rack my PAS by clipping the first and 4th loop, then between my legs and clip to the haul loop.  People always ask me if I meant to do that, but it works great :)
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