I'm going to jump in before someone gives me the answers. Good one, Fred.
1. "Beta" came from the Gunks, termed for "Betamax", Sony's defunct video system. "Sawicky for the jug" - mid-80s by Jersey Jeff Gruenberg, Jack Mileski & crew.
2. "Most famous & controversial" - you have to be kidding!! Let's see, probably you're looking for Royal Robbins chopping of Harding's "Wall of the Early Morning Light". Around here it would be the chopping of "Room with a View". Or Thin Air...
3. Uh, Camp 4?
4. The FIRST 5.11?!?! Probably in Dresden, E. Germany. Around here it would be Lichen Delight, I think. One of the finest pitches on Cathedral, BTW.
5. Maybe EBs compared to what else was available, but truthfully Fires were the first sticky shoe.
6. Easy - Michael Hartrich. Oh, Warren Harding, too.
7. Same as answer 6. No, not Michael.
8. Hmmm, Paul Boissoneault? Steve Larson?
9. Kauk & Bachar, over poaching a new route. Or stealing a woman (more likely).
10. An airplane loaded with bud (not to be confused with Budweiser, which pretends to be beer) crashed in the high country. All the dirtbags in Camp 4 were sporting new stuff....