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Author Topic: Climbing Trivia Contest  (Read 327 times)

tradmanclimbz

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Re: Climbing Trivia Contest
« Reply #15 on: November 14, 2003, 07:09:47 AM »

All the big dogs lived in an old incinerator someweres near moose - the climbers ranch?   Newbies had to crash outside untill they earned the respect of the  old hands. the guy who offed himself Is slipping my mind  I don't think it was his name that was french but the fact that he lived under a bridge in france for awhile. i think his name was Gary hemmings. dan foots told us the stuff about the incinerator and chiounard shooting the marmot for stew while we were drinking beers just outside of devils tower. He also told us about hemmings  getting in a fistfight and then going back to his campsite and offinghimself with a shotgun. I know I have read about that one somewere in the mags over the years
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DGoguen

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Re: Climbing Trivia Contest
« Reply #16 on: November 17, 2003, 05:42:12 AM »

Gary Hemmings climbed the American Direct on the Dru with Royal Robbins in 1962. His life is detailed in "Beatnik of the Alps" available at Chessler books.
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Jim_Ewing

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Re: Climbing Trivia Contest
« Reply #17 on: November 17, 2003, 08:21:02 AM »

Quote
Answers (the one's I had in-mind). Some I'm sure are debatable.

#1 In the Gunks, Vulgarian members as-outlined


Was indeed Mileski but he was not a Vulgarian.  Vulgarians were of an earlier era than Mileski, "Jersey Jeff" Gruenberg, and Freeman.

Also, I don't think Bachar's infamous fist fight was with Kauk but I could be wrong.
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Admin Al

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Re: Climbing Trivia Contest
« Reply #18 on: November 17, 2003, 08:27:46 AM »

I thought the fight was between Bachar & Mike (?), Kaulk's partner about the bolts Kaulk placed after he professed to be against them. I remember reading something about this in the AAC Journal. Maybe it's in something that Adam Tambone sent me a while back... Adam???

Al
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Al Hospers
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Hangdog

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Re: Climbing Trivia Contest
« Reply #19 on: November 18, 2003, 07:51:34 AM »

Didn't Bachar have some kind of a reward for anyone who could follow him up the route of his (Bachar's) choice "Solo"? I thought that the fight might have been between Bachar and Kaulk over this...a wee Ego clash!?!?

I think I remember someone burning down Bachars house (tent/shelter?) in the night too. Is this a myth or is there truth in this story? It seems Bachar made few friends there in the Valley during the 70's and early 80's.

Great trivia by the way! ;D
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Climbing Trivia Contest
« Reply #20 on: November 19, 2003, 05:05:41 AM »

Bacar offered $10,000 that he probobly didn't have to anyone who could follow him for a day of soloing in the Valley :o Nobody took him up on it.
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Admin Al

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Re: Climbing Trivia Contest
« Reply #21 on: November 19, 2003, 06:48:53 AM »

I think hat there was a John Long article or short story about that, following Bachar soloing, in an old issue of R&I.
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Al Hospers
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haircity

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Re: Climbing Trivia Contest
« Reply #22 on: November 19, 2003, 09:52:10 AM »

Actually, I believe the first 5.11 in the US was Supremacy Crack by Pat Ament in 1965.

I think there was (is?) some debate about anything Supremacy being 5.11, no?

Didn't Ament had a reputation as a sandbagger...in reverse.
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Jeff

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Re: Climbing Trivia Contest
« Reply #23 on: November 20, 2003, 07:53:21 AM »

Gary Hemming ( no s in the name) died on the shores of Jenny Lake  after an argument/altercation at a "Teton Tea Party"  on Guides Hill, Aug 6,1969 from a self inflicted gunshot wound from a pistol which he had had in his pack (not a shotgun). He had a common-law wife and son in the Grenoble area of France and had lived for a time with friends of mine there. I was in Grenoble when news of his death reached France and the mother of the family was sure that Gary "her gentle giant" could not have done such a thing and that "gun crazy Americans" had killed him. I pledged to do what I could to to get her the true story and did so, when I returned home in the fall of 1969. Unfortunately, Gary was a more complex and troubled figure than she had realized. The biography "Gary Hemming, The Beatnik of the Alps" by Mirella Tenderini(The Ernest Press, 1995) is a great read for those interested in the history of American climbing in the Alps during the '60s. As previously noted it has been available from Chessler books. Gary was in many ways a tragic figure and was greatly loved by the French, for many of whom he represented the romance of youthful America. Jeff Lea
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Jeff

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Re: Climbing Trivia Contest
« Reply #24 on: November 20, 2003, 08:06:56 AM »

I belive that the John Long story (essay?) was entitled "The Ultimate Blasphemy". It detailed a day of following Bachar soloing in J-Tree which ended with Long unroped and sketching badly high on "Leave It To Beaver". His subsequent escapades and writings prove he made it, but I remember involuntarily reaching for my chalkbag as my heartrate rose on first reading the story. I can't remember whether it appeared first in Climbing, or Rock and Ice, although I suspect the former. Look it up--it's a gripper! Jeff Lea
    ps: besides Bob Anderson , I would have answered Al Rubin to the question about the person figuring in the most first ascent parties with famous climbers, at least in NE. There was a time when he was considered the "best second in the country" and he certainly contributed the greatest number of route names of anyone in my awareness.  Jeff Lea
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Admin Al

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Re: Climbing Trivia Contest
« Reply #25 on: November 20, 2003, 10:39:35 AM »

interesting that Jeff mentioned Al Rubin. I climbed a couple of times with him 2 years ago. he expressed absolutely no interest in leading anything, but was quite happy and competent seconding anything I was able to get up. I asked him about it and he said "I'm a wimp leader." wimp or not, he was a great second & a fun person to be out on the rock with.

al
« Last Edit: November 20, 2003, 10:40:35 AM by admin »
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Al Hospers
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t-rad

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Re: Climbing Trivia Contest
« Reply #26 on: November 20, 2003, 12:31:05 PM »

Jeff,  I think John Long also printed those stories in 'Climbing Anchors'.

-a
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Climbing Trivia Contest
« Reply #27 on: November 20, 2003, 12:53:28 PM »

 Jeff. Did you know  guy by the name of Dan Foots?  Whe met a guy in the parkinglot of devils tower about 7 years ago who was at that party and told us a bunch of stories about the incinerator campsite as well as a pretty cool story about spending 3 weeks in winter on El Cap putting up a new rt with layton kor.
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