« previous next »
Pages: [1] 2   Go Down

Author Topic: Valley Trip  (Read 2035 times)

Offline meclimber

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1014
  • Climb for your own reasons.
Valley Trip
« on: October 26, 2009, 12:40:21 PM »
Well my wife loves me or is sick of me, I'd give it a 50-50.  And is getting me a trip to yosemite for christmas.  Well not for christmas but the tickets at christmas and a trip in the spring.  I've only been to the valley in the fall (and had heatwaves and snowstorms) so I was wondering the best times for spring trips.  I was thinking the last 2 weeks in may.  I want most of the snowmelt to be done, but not too hot.  Any suggestions?
Logged
Jon Howard

Offline old_school

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 2508
  • "Climb Now, Work Later."
Re: Valley Trip
« Reply #1 on: October 26, 2009, 02:19:45 PM »
Hi Jon,

We went about 9 maybe 10 years ago on the first week of June. We spent close to two weeks there and up in Tuolumne and it was perfect! Late May should be ok...but there may be some snow in the high country.

rammy
Logged
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline meclimber

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1014
  • Climb for your own reasons.
Re: Valley Trip
« Reply #2 on: October 26, 2009, 02:40:00 PM »
Thanks Grammy, I'm pushing for the end of May for the temps.  But I know that I have a worse chance of catching late season snow.  I have had two climbing trips mostly ruined by snow, but I think it's worse the risk. :)
Logged
Jon Howard

Offline strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 5829
Re: Valley Trip
« Reply #3 on: October 26, 2009, 07:17:42 PM »
Yo ME- there is always somthing good to do in the Valley unless it is POURING. Then go to the East side for way good stuff. I would be glad to give you some choice from my 15+ visits, let me know. The end of may is great, 60-70 but HOT in the sun.

Starters-

Royal Arches/ Crest Jewel 30 pitches 10A- would be 9+ NH. Nothing harder than Across The Universe with more bolts and better rock. A FUCKIN' CLASSIC
Snake Dike - 10 pitches 5.7 , maybe . The best easy route EVER!
East Buttress/ El Cap- 10B or so, AWESOME

There really isn't any reason to do short routes in the Valley, 'cause the shorties in NH are better. !!!

Alright maybe a couple;

Apron- Lonely Dancer 10, Son Of Sam 9, Clogdance 11
Reed's- Reed's Direct 9+ GREAT
more later,

john
Logged

Offline WanderlustMD

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 218
Re: Valley Trip
« Reply #4 on: October 26, 2009, 07:43:50 PM »
May is prime time in the valley, even toward the end. Nothing bad about going then, just be aware....even so, it can be suprising hot in the "spring"...

A few more routes that are really fun:

Valley:
Steck Salathe
East Buttress of Middle C - I'd wanted to do this route for a while and it didn't disappoint. A really great outing. Avoid it on the weekend
Serenity Crack into Sons of Yesterday -  Don't be spooked by the first pictch runout, it really isn't that bad, even for a wuss like me.
Central Pillar of Frenzy: High traffic, but worth it. Get there early or shoot for early afternoon, there's usually a lull

In general, the valley has tons to do. I was fortunate enough to find a few locals to show me the more obscure things.

Tuolumne:
Oz (Drug Dome)
Lucky Streaks (Fairview) - favorite route in the area, really great
On the Lamb - one of a kind!
Logged

Offline strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 5829
Re: Valley Trip
« Reply #5 on: October 26, 2009, 07:54:42 PM »
Must be me- I did not think East Butt of middle was even good ? The best route in Tuolumne if you want a AWESOME finger crack is Speed Of Life -11b Better then butterballs and  about as hard as Airation, but 3 times longer as less pain !  Just to be a prick- i would also avoid the regular route on Fairview- not that good and crowded.
Logged

DLottmann

  • Guest
Re: Valley Trip
« Reply #6 on: October 26, 2009, 07:56:25 PM »
Quote from: strandman on October 26, 2009, 07:17:42 PM
...
Snake Dike - 10 pitches 5.7 , maybe . The best easy route EVER!
...

I would love to do this route sometime... it may take the place of Crimson Chrysalis on my "best route eva list"
Logged

Offline strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 5829
Re: Valley Trip
« Reply #7 on: October 26, 2009, 08:04:21 PM »
Snake Dike is as good as Sliding Board and maybe easier ! What a great route ! We did the trail approach which takes about as long as the climb. 7 miles and 2,500'. The route is so good and ya only need a few pieces. A long rope is cool too, we had a 100m 8.8 and did the route in about 5 pitches. the upper pitches are like 5.2 and 800'
Logged

Offline old_school

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 2508
  • "Climb Now, Work Later."
Re: Valley Trip
« Reply #8 on: October 26, 2009, 08:36:41 PM »
We did the Regular Northwest Route on Half Dome and hit Lembert Dome and Stately Pleasure Dome at Tanaya Lake in Tuolumne. South Crack was great at SPD and Crying time again at Lembert! Tons of great routes out there to do. I loved Tuolumne...big sky, fresh air...nothing mor beautiful than the high sierra in my book. So much to do in the Valley...it is mind blowing!!! I need to get back there soon... ;)
Logged
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline WanderlustMD

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 218
Re: Valley Trip
« Reply #9 on: October 26, 2009, 09:28:54 PM »
Quote from: strandman on October 26, 2009, 07:54:42 PM
Must be me- I did not think East Butt of middle was even good ? The best route in Tuolumne if you want a AWESOME finger crack is Speed Of Life -11b Better then butterballs and  about as hard as Airation, but 3 times longer as less pain !  Just to be a prick- i would also avoid the regular route on Fairview- not that good and crowded.


Personally, I enjoyed it a lot. I remember p1 and 7 beingd a bit blah, but other than that it was fun.

.11b finger crack? Where is it?
That reminds me, the first pitch of bombs over tokyo on Daff Dome is also excellent, as is Crescent Arch....

There's just too much good climbing there...
Logged

Offline WanderlustMD

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 218
Re: Valley Trip
« Reply #10 on: October 26, 2009, 09:30:06 PM »
Quote from: old_school on October 26, 2009, 08:36:41 PM
We did the Regular Northwest Route on Half Dome and hit Lembert Dome and Stately Pleasure Dome at Tanaya Lake in Tuolumne. South Crack was great at SPD and Crying time again at Lembert! Tons of great routes out there to do. I loved Tuolumne...big sky, fresh air...nothing mor beautiful than the high sierra in my book. So much to do in the Valley...it is mind blowing!!! I need to get back there soon... ;)

I've wanted to do that one for years. What is it, 27 pitches right up the face?! Unreal. I heard it's doable in the summer since it sits a a bit higher...
Wanna go back? ;D
Logged

Offline JSarcione

  • NEClimbs Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 22
Re: Valley Trip
« Reply #11 on: October 26, 2009, 10:26:29 PM »
My only trip there, third day, 2-3 inches of snow on the valley floor, 8 inches up at the rim.  Wouldn't let anyone leave without chains on the tires.

June 1st
Logged

Offline strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 5829
Re: Valley Trip
« Reply #12 on: October 26, 2009, 10:48:05 PM »
half Dome regular route- 8-10 hours if you are good with changeovers and climb 10 cracks quick- maybe 100' of aid. Don't bring biv shit. The West face of El Cap is better and only slightly harder (11- all free) COOL Speed is located above Ellery lake AWSOME If the lake is frozen, do the Quarries approach, across the groaning ice !
Logged

Offline meclimber

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1014
  • Climb for your own reasons.
Re: Valley Trip
« Reply #13 on: October 27, 2009, 07:56:37 AM »
I'm getting excited now and I still have an ice season and 6 months to go.  I've had weather issues on other road trips there so I've been limited to shorter routes.  East but. ec, SS, lost arrow chimney, serenity/sons, RA/?5.8, etc.  I'm shooting for classics, but may keep a trip up LT or the column on the radar too.  The hammer likes road trips too!  Thanks for all the suggestions, if we keep this going for 6 months, then I won't even need to look at a book when I'm there.
Logged
Jon Howard

bsf

  • Guest
Re: Valley Trip
« Reply #14 on: October 27, 2009, 10:40:30 AM »
Snake Dike,

I remember it well, especially the 4 50m 5.4 pitches with only ONE piece of protection, a bolt at 25 meters, on each pitch. Its not Whitehorse, your out there.

We had to help some hikers back at night as they did not have flashlights, when the ranger meet us at the trailhead (they had called for help) and asked us what we did he gave a good hearty laugh and said "Snake Dike, always an adventure"
Logged
Pages: [1] 2   Go Up
« previous next »