Author Topic: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.  (Read 3481 times)

Offline JBeta

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #15 on: November 14, 2009, 03:11:57 PM »
What will make me a better sport climber?   :D

I know your post was in jest, but drive over the hill to Rumney. Get on a hard route, take some falls, and I bet your climbing (trad and sport) will improve.

bsf

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #16 on: November 14, 2009, 03:51:22 PM »
What will make me a better sport climber?   :D

fashion is the key

My grade has jumped from a 9++ to 10c-- by paying close attention to the cover of climbing magazine

I am anticipating a rise to 10d++ or even 11a-- once I figure out if regular fit stonewashed denim jeans are better than trim fit non-aged jeans. Of course, belt or sans belt is another completely different topic.

Offline JBeta

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #17 on: November 14, 2009, 04:09:12 PM »
fashion is the key

My grade has jumped from a 9++ to 10c-- by paying close attention to the cover of climbing magazine

I am anticipating a rise to 10d++ or even 11a-- once I figure out if regular fit stonewashed denim jeans are better than trim fit non-aged jeans. Of course, belt or sans belt is another completely different topic.

You forgot about the beanie...

bsf

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #18 on: November 14, 2009, 04:17:43 PM »
You forgot about the beanie...

 >:( good point

that is why i will never climb 5.12

Offline strandman

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #19 on: November 14, 2009, 06:04:22 PM »
i guess I can't figure how falling off can make you a better climber ?

Offline om

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #20 on: November 14, 2009, 09:59:33 PM »
hm.. i can pull some .12 moves... But i can't really reverse them - as I found out once trying to downclimb to a hold on a 5.8 at the gunks... I would've been much better off with solid route finding skills that day  ;D
-om

Offline cbcbd

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #21 on: November 15, 2009, 02:38:36 AM »
Gym climbing will make you better at both.

...prove me wrong.

Offline sneoh

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #22 on: November 15, 2009, 07:50:35 AM »
Gym climbing will make you better at both.
Nothing but the truth to this ....   ;) ;) (wink, wink)


"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #23 on: November 15, 2009, 11:25:44 AM »
I am going to go out on a limb here and say that sport climbing improves you lead head in 2 ways.
#1 Strength builds confidence and sport climbing builds strength.
Heres the out on the limb part..
#2. a little discussed sordid little secret of the trad climbing world is that barring low angle slab climbs and (interesting moves)  I must digress here.. how many of you have noticed that when Ed Webster write about an interesting move you generaly end up getting your under pants dirty?   ;)

So back on track here, when many trad climbs get steep there are cracks and where ther are cracks there is gear and where there is gear there is the tendancy to reach up and place gear infront of thy nose before makeing the move and appon noticing that the last gear is all the way down by thy belly button that it must be time to place more gear infront of thy nose. If the crack  is continous one may even be tempted to push thy cam up the crack thereby keeping it in front of they nose  for the entire crux ;D

Sport climbing does not allow you to do these little tricks. You must climb to the next bolt and often you must do hard moves above your last bolt to get to the next clip.

 Here is a little experiment that i have done ocasionaly. I take some young spurt climbing kid trad climbing and watch him grab gear and shake like a dog shitting razor blades on his first day out in the trad world. 3 weeks later the same kid is warming up on my projects.. Its pretty darn rare to reverse that story line and have some old fart 5.10 trad climber suddenly cranking 12s after 3 weeks of spurt climbing

bsf

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #24 on: November 15, 2009, 12:24:38 PM »
I know this site has a leaning toward trad climbing, but I'm here to tell you that sport climbing makes you a better trad climber. All you sport haters out there can say all you want as I'm locking off my way up all of your trad routes. Ha!

Prove me wrong...


I used to do only trad climbing but over the last 2-3 years have mainly done sport climbing, for several reasons. I have found when I do go multipitch trad climbing I am worse at it. Mainly because my route finding skills have deteriorated, my ability to rapidly and efficiently set belay anchors has worsened, and I am not as confident about the protection I place.


Offline cbcbd

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #25 on: November 15, 2009, 01:17:42 PM »
Mainly because my route finding skills have deteriorated, my ability to rapidly and efficiently set belay anchors has worsened, and I am not as confident about the protection I place.
I see this a lot in one of my partners who is a very strong sport climber (and climber in general) but focuses little on trad - very slow in his systems - anchor building/finding placements, does not trust gear, over protects everything - always seems to run out of gear!, fumbles with gear... pitches that he should be flying on take numbingly long! He is a much stronger climber than I am but in many cases it has been faster for me to lead a trad pitch that we can both physically climb.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #26 on: November 15, 2009, 01:39:16 PM »
The spurt climbing makes you stronger but it is still up to you to retain and build your routfinding and gear placeing systems. If your system falls apart and you can't remeber how to find your way up a trad climb after a few weeks of spurt climbing then you have other issues to deal with...

Offline WanderlustMD

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #27 on: November 15, 2009, 02:54:01 PM »
I know your post was in jest, but drive over the hill to Rumney. Get on a hard route, take some falls, and I bet your climbing (trad and sport) will improve.

itz troo.

Offline WanderlustMD

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #28 on: November 15, 2009, 02:57:41 PM »
I used to do only trad climbing but over the last 2-3 years have mainly done sport climbing, for several reasons. I have found when I do go multipitch trad climbing I am worse at it. Mainly because my route finding skills have deteriorated, my ability to rapidly and efficiently set belay anchors has worsened, and I am not as confident about the protection I place.



Everyone gets rusty. Depending on the amount of time you were trad climbing prior to sport climbing, I bet that if you focused on trad again for a few months you'd find the old skills back up where they should be.


Offline strandman

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #29 on: November 15, 2009, 04:15:36 PM »
Top roping makes you a better sport climber ! Or maybe not, how would I know ? I DO know that tr's can make you technically better. It sure worked for me as well as several others.