Author Topic: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.  (Read 3461 times)

Offline F_Bomb

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #30 on: November 15, 2009, 05:48:05 PM »
This is a completely insane argument. Any athlete serious about improving their game should train by focusing on their personal weaknesses, whether it's your head or your forearms. 

That's why I try to go to Rumney as much as possible (week days only).

Offline sneoh

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #31 on: November 15, 2009, 06:53:56 PM »

I take some young spurt climbing kid trad climbing and watch him grab gear and shake like a dog shitting razor blades on his first day out in the trad world. 3 weeks later the same kid is warming up on my projects..
I've often wondered if this could happen.  Now I know.  But after only three weeks?  That's impressive.
Thanks for sharing.

-S.Neoh


"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #32 on: November 15, 2009, 08:08:10 PM »
Well maby it was 2 weeks....   seriously if you climb 5.12 spurt and boulder a bunch if you can get past the stigma of TRAD then you allready have better climbing skills and more strength than the average tradster..  just show em how the springy things  and the little wires work and  the next thing you know the little bastard are stealing your projects :P

One kid that I climbed with last year, I worked with him on his gear placement/ trad climbing skills pretty much just once. maby twice?  He lead center crack 5.7 and was extreemly timid. Hung severl times and almost fell at the top. It was all mental fear of (trad) climbing. Once he figured out  how the thingys work and that it is just climbing he was on a roll. A few weeks later he led  Monkey Direct 5.10 with a pretty serious start. He then led  The Flying Groundhog 10c  which had not been repeted after Isa  had led it about 5 years previously. 

Offline JBeta

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #33 on: November 16, 2009, 10:20:06 AM »
if you climb 5.12 spurt 

Why do you keep calling it "spurt" climbing?

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #34 on: November 16, 2009, 10:45:55 AM »
He lost his right ring finger in a crack
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

Offline barryj

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #35 on: November 16, 2009, 02:47:45 PM »
Well Sport can make you stronger mentally and physically but Trad helps me be able to live with myself in the morning after Sport climbing!

Offline GOclimb

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #36 on: November 16, 2009, 03:16:06 PM »
Occasionally the more sport specific moves come in useful in trad situations. 

There's no such thing as a "sport specific move".  Hard face climbing is hard face climbing, and the moves are identical whether you're at the Gunks or Rumney. 
Quote
I remember approaching the crux on Feast of Fools at the Gunks and the locals were eyeballing this old geezer expecting a flail fest.  Little drop knee back step action (yes Soon I actually do that at times) and I was over it - how'd he do that? 

Nice job.  Fun route. 

I'm primarily a trad climber, and I have a hell of a lot of fun showing up the young hot-shits, flashing their 5.12 sport projects.

Quote
But more often I think the techniques that become instinctive sport climbing can be detrimental in trad situations.  I have seen countless gym rat sport climbers try to lay back the top of Jane - turning an 11- jam into a 12 layback.

This is a spurious argument.  All you're proving is that people lacking a specific technique will flail on a climb that requires that technique.  Your argument is as valid as saying that training at Indian Creek will lead you to be unable to climb granite.  Yeah, if all you've ever done is train on crack, then when you hit a hard face move, it will shut you down.  But you better believe that most NE climbers have a weak point around crack, and so training their crack technique will make them much better climbers on granite.

If you are a competent trad climber, then climbing is just climbing.  And sport climbing allows you to focus on technique and pushing your physical limits, while removing the safety concern (mostly).  It's entirely artificial, but it's also fantastic training for the physical and technical.

It all depends on what your primary weakness is.  If you're good at placing gear quickly and efficiently, but don't push yourself, and don't know your real limits, then sport can be incredibly helpful. 

GO

Offline sneoh

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #37 on: November 16, 2009, 04:13:44 PM »
Hard face climbing is hard face climbing, and the moves are identical whether you're at the Gunks or Rumney. 
How do you define face climbing?
I do not believe I made identical moves on Never Never Land and, say, Underdog.


"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline crazyt

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #38 on: November 16, 2009, 06:26:17 PM »
I love it all. Clipping bolts has made me a better trad climber. Crash pads have rejuvenated bouldering for this old body. Multi pitch, craggin', alpine it's all good and always fun and interesting. If all you're doing is clipping bolts you're missing alot of great climbing! If your a staunch trad climber do a sport route and maybe have some fun. In the northeast we're truley blessed with diversity and I really love it all!
work hard, play harder

Offline bag11s

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #39 on: November 16, 2009, 06:50:23 PM »
Amen.

Offline strandman

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #40 on: November 16, 2009, 07:44:45 PM »
reading about sport climbing makes me hard.

Offline crazyt

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #41 on: November 16, 2009, 09:19:26 PM »
reading about sport climbing makes me hard.

This'll make you harder better faster stronger

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bl6RJyZdBSU

 :D
« Last Edit: November 16, 2009, 09:38:48 PM by crazyt »
work hard, play harder

Offline GOclimb

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #42 on: November 16, 2009, 11:15:17 PM »
How do you define face climbing?
I do not believe I made identical moves on Never Never Land and, say, Underdog.



Huh?  Where in my post did you read that I said that all face climbs are identical?  Face = approximately vertical, with only minimal use of jamming, chimney, or big roof techniques required. 

GO

Offline sneoh

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #43 on: November 17, 2009, 09:10:32 AM »
Question:
Where in my post did you read that I said that all face climbs are identical? 

Ans:
There's no such thing as a "sport specific move".  Hard face climbing is hard face climbing, and the moves are identical whether you're at the Gunks or Rumney. 


"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline meclimber

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Re: Sport climbing makes you a better trad climber.
« Reply #44 on: November 17, 2009, 10:11:02 AM »
'Well Sport can make you stronger mentally and physically but Trad helps me be able to live with myself in the morning after Sport climbing!'

'If you are a competent trad climber, then climbing is just climbing.  And sport climbing allows you to focus on technique and pushing your physical limits, while removing the safety concern (mostly).  It's entirely artificial, but it's also fantastic training for the physical and technical.'

'reading about sport climbing makes me hard.'

'Amen.'

You guys said it best!
Jon Howard