General > Epics and Accidents

Never leave the base without a rope!


So, in anticipation of the upcoming ice season, I think back to last November 21st.  The first & only ice? climb I've done.  (funny my first time on ice I managed to epic) 

My friend Paul and I heard that Pinnacle was coming in, enough to climb, and decided it would be a good first route for me.  Well, we got up there and had two parties ahead of us (it would have been one party if I had gotten ready quicker), and the first party was not moving fast.  We decided to go look at Central.  It looked good enough for Paul to say he would retrieve his gear from the base of Pinnacle, and go for it.  I said I was gonna look around the first pitch and go up a few yards to get a look at the first bulge.  Mistake #1; I would never have done something like that (start up a route without at least a rope) had it been a rock route.  While Paul was on his way back I got a little higher than I should have.  Mistake #2; I got past an stretch of really thin, (like a half inch thin), brittle ice and found myself at the bulge and realized how far I got.  I went over this bulge and sat on the ledge to wait for Paul to bring up the gear.  He got to the thin spot and said there wasn't enough ice left to climb. (at least he didn't call me a hack)  I didn't have a thing to lower down to him so I could get the rope up and pull him through that spot, and I sure as hell couldn't down climb what he couldn't climb up.  I decided my only way out was up.  I said that when I got to the top I would make for Lions Head and meet him at the Lions/Tucks jct. 

Well now; what fine mess I seem to be in, I said to myself.  Long story short, I employed some questionable technique's on some questionable terrain.  I may have gone off route a time or two.  I got to the top, too wasted to appreciate the warm bluebird day and started along the Alpine Garden Trail.  I didn't even take the tools off my wrists till I got to the meeting spot.  About ten minutes later Paul came up the trail and a wave of relief washed over me.  I picked up my pack and we got the hell out of there.

So, there it is, and I can't wait for the ice to come in.

Admin Al:
good story... I can relate.

several years ago in early season I did the same on Pinnacle, only I was by myself. I had hiked up & was really wanting to climb something. Pinnacle actually had some ice on it and I figured I could downclimb anything I can climb. normally that is true and I actually practice climbing and downclimbing stuff all thru the early season. in this case I went up the right side of the flows 'cause there was very little ice on the left. I got up to a stance and realized that the ice I just climbed had flaked off and the left side was very thin over pouring water. I ended up going to the top by staying well on the right next to the wall. it certainly held my attention.

this was on Nov 3 on my birthday. could have been a helluva b-day present. [wry grin] nothing else I did that season, which included Last Exit & Dropline, felt as sketchy.


--- Quote from: Admin Al on November 14, 2009, 11:07:07 am ---.

this was on Nov 3 on my birthday. .

--- End quote ---

 get outta town! mine too.

Admin Al:
that's funny Rob... I hope you had a good one, I did.  ;D


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