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Author Topic: Torn Finger Pulley  (Read 380 times)

HangingChad

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Torn Finger Pulley
« on: February 17, 2010, 08:36:59 AM »

So this injury occured just before thanksgiving.  I spent most of November and a bit of December in Bishop, California doing some bouldering.  Overall, it was a fantastic trip in a fantastic place, I never liked bouldering until I stumbled into Bishop after a Yosemite trip.  So one day in the Buttermilks I was working on a few problems that were very challenging for me.  None of these problems felt physically strenuous for me, the moves just felt really hard!  After a few hard problems, I decided I wanted to give me Trip Goal a run for its money.  I got on High Plains Drifter after watching a couple guys working the movies.  Blatently stealing their beta.  I got just below the crux where I was moving to the biggest hold on the entire problem, hit the hold, and my heel hook blew.  Next thing I know, I hear about 5-6 loud pops coming from my right hand, the one on the "huge" crimp.  I felt no pain, but decided it was a bad thing and dropped down.  It turns out everyone around me had heard teh pops as well!
What I believe has happened (I have not seen a doctor, can't afford one, nor do I really trust them) is that I have torn a pulley or two.  I only have minor bowing, so I don't think any of them are completely severed.  I taped up and lived off Vitamin I for the rest of the bouldering trip, and was just selective about the problems I got on.  When I got home I took 6 weeks off of rock AND ice climbing.  I am now back, working my way up, but still taping the shit out of my finger.  Been gonig to the gym and working my open hand strength and technique.
I don't really have any questions about this, just thought I would share my experience with all.  Pretty straight forward injury, patience and prevention of further injury is about all u can do. Working on training myself back up for a Red Rock trip in March (all are welcome by the way).  Anyone else have similar experience they would like to share?
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CLemay

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Re: Torn Finger Pulley
« Reply #1 on: February 17, 2010, 09:17:22 AM »

HC,

If you have a torn tendon pulley(or 2) in your finger, you need to get it repaired or you will have issues with that finger later on. Take it from someone who has had one completely blown out. Mine was "minor" bowing as well, even according to the MRI but once he opened my finger up he commented on how little was left of the pulley. There is a great hand surgeon near Boston that I can recommend, he used to be a climber so he knows our sport and mentality when it comes to injuries. He didn't recommend the surgery, I opted for it but he said ended being the right decision for me.

I can understand not being able to afford to see a doctor but if you can at least have it looked at. Good luck!

Chris
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meclimber

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Re: Torn Finger Pulley
« Reply #2 on: February 17, 2010, 12:44:59 PM »

Stay out of the gym, it wrecks the body!
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Jon Howard

strandman

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Re: Torn Finger Pulley
« Reply #3 on: February 17, 2010, 01:00:34 PM »

For a pulley- i like the petzl.

Drifter ? what a great problem ! Anyway time heals all, especially fingers. I have heard some people say that taping does not really help finger problems but i disagree. It does seem to helpme although it may become a crutch to get back to soon.
The problem really is - if it IS ripped, your gonna need some work.
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HangingChad

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Re: Torn Finger Pulley
« Reply #4 on: February 17, 2010, 07:20:58 PM »

If anything the tape is a good reminder that I have an injured finger!  I have heard that it doesn't do a lot of good, but I'll take what I can get.  Right now I am just taking it easy, but if I stumble across some insurance down the road I may get it looked at.  I am back ice climbing normally (it hurt doing Grade 2 in december) and doing light work outs in the gym just to keep my movements fresh and learn how to climb open handed!  Getting it looked at really isn't even an option.  Not unless I want to increase my debt.  I have also had shoulder dislocations since I was a teen.  Tell ya what, if I do get insurance I will be cashin big! haha.  Maybe I'll just wait till someone starts a reality show, "Rebuilding Broken Climbers" and I can get some free work.
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strandman

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Re: Torn Finger Pulley
« Reply #5 on: February 17, 2010, 08:09:43 PM »

A injured climber reality show ! AWESOME .

I had a shoulder dislocating issue when i was 19, my feet skated from an undercling but my hand stayed in OUCH. After 2 Docs telling me I didn't do the exercises, I hit the rubber bands HARD side pulling off the door and have never had another problem.

Maybe i'm kinda wierd (maybe) but rehab has never bothered me, I kinda like it.

What we need is climber Docs that work under the table
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HangingChad

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Re: Torn Finger Pulley
« Reply #6 on: February 17, 2010, 08:17:46 PM »

I like your thinkin Strand.  They could get pulley's, tendon's, and such other parts off of cadaver's to enhance our crappy parts.  And they will work for booze!
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strandman

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Re: Torn Finger Pulley
« Reply #7 on: February 17, 2010, 08:25:31 PM »

Only prob is if they start lookin' at US as cadavers :o I personally would like some of Bachar's tendons, prolly kinda pricey though..
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