General > General Climbing

Best Massachusetts 5.9s?

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So relative newbie question.  I used to climb consistently but recently I got addicted to Surfing and it has monopolized my time, leaving me with the finger strength and forearm endurance of an average relatively new climber.  I do however still love an aesthetically beautiful line and I crave fun techy movement, just don't have the arsenal to climb 5.11+ at the moment.  Does anyone recommend a good 5.8-5.10 climb and crag near MA? I know I could find this at Rumney but the idea of driving 5+ hours round trip to pump out in 3 goes is not appealing.

Thanks in advance. 

PS.  If anyone wants to go / get into surfing hit me up.  It is pretty great.

There is Quincy Quarries...never been there...could be my NH mentality of any place nearest Boston...however Crow Hill near Leominster has some nice lines to well as Red Rocks off exit 14 of 128 in Gloucester. Den Rock also offers some sharp/short Top Rope/Boulder problems...however the recent glass piles from peoples windows being smashed in is a turn off...then PWay has a bunch as well. The gate s/b open by next week..usually 1st -2nd week in May. Otherwise hike in from the farm. Good luck.

Definately Crow hill. Especially in the 5.9 - 5.10 range. Some of the 5.8's are 5.9 too.
It's been a long time, but this is a trad area.

Where do you usually surf?  I live up in Maine and surf quite a bit. 

Double Helix is a great 5.9 dihedral at Rose Ledge.
Yosemite Crack is a great 5.9 corner/crack at Farley
Eye Opener 5.9- is bolted at Farley
Air Blast 5.9 bolted at Farley

I would start with those four for best 9's in Massachusetts.


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